HELP ME BUY A 2010-2012 MB GLK530
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 15
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2010 ML350 Blutec
HELP ME BUY A 2010-2012 MB GLK530
I am looking to buy in next 10 days or so a 2010-2012 year GLK350 4Matic for a reasonable price. Would prefer to buy from someone who is hoping to upgrade. Would like to avoid the middleman dealer thus save some money. Welcome any ideas how to go about it. NEW TO MERCEDES BENZ. Hopr to save about $3000-$4000 dealer markup in our area . Please Help if you can. TORONTO CANADA
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,780
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From: Northern NJ
GLK 350 / Porsche 993
Check for vibration at idle. If you feel brake pedal and steering wheel vibrate at idle, the engine mounts are worn out. It's an expensive job on 4matics, not bad on 2wd.
Check that rear electric gate operates up and down.
Check that sunroof and the curtain operate fully.
Look at driver seat wear and tear, MB tex is known to rip.
Open the hood, check the air intake runners (made out of soft material, they are brittle and break with age - no big deal).
Check axle boots for cracks/grease coming out.
Try to get car on the lift and check for leak from transfer case or front diff. General sweating is ok, but drips is not great.
Test drive and listen for any noises especially from transmission. There are a few failures of 4matics, but they tend to be at lower mileage, but if the noise is simply ignored you might be buying an expensive fix.
Test if the car pulls or vibrates at speed (can be as simple as unbalanced wheel).
I've had mine for almost 10 years, since new, and it's been as very reliable and pretty easy to work on (except for the engine mounts).
Check that rear electric gate operates up and down.
Check that sunroof and the curtain operate fully.
Look at driver seat wear and tear, MB tex is known to rip.
Open the hood, check the air intake runners (made out of soft material, they are brittle and break with age - no big deal).
Check axle boots for cracks/grease coming out.
Try to get car on the lift and check for leak from transfer case or front diff. General sweating is ok, but drips is not great.
Test drive and listen for any noises especially from transmission. There are a few failures of 4matics, but they tend to be at lower mileage, but if the noise is simply ignored you might be buying an expensive fix.
Test if the car pulls or vibrates at speed (can be as simple as unbalanced wheel).
I've had mine for almost 10 years, since new, and it's been as very reliable and pretty easy to work on (except for the engine mounts).
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
2010 ML350 Blutec
Check for vibration at idle. If you feel brake pedal and steering wheel vibrate at idle, the engine mounts are worn out. It's an expensive job on 4matics, not bad on 2wd.
Check that rear electric gate operates up and down.
Check that sunroof and the curtain operate fully.
Look at driver seat wear and tear, MB tex is known to rip.
Open the hood, check the air intake runners (made out of soft material, they are brittle and break with age - no big deal).
Check axle boots for cracks/grease coming out.
Try to get car on the lift and check for leak from transfer case or front diff. General sweating is ok, but drips is not great.
Test drive and listen for any noises especially from transmission. There are a few failures of 4matics, but they tend to be at lower mileage, but if the noise is simply ignored you might be buying an expensive fix.
Test if the car pulls or vibrates at speed (can be as simple as unbalanced wheel).
I've had mine for almost 10 years, since new, and it's been as very reliable and pretty easy to work on (except for the engine mounts).
Check that rear electric gate operates up and down.
Check that sunroof and the curtain operate fully.
Look at driver seat wear and tear, MB tex is known to rip.
Open the hood, check the air intake runners (made out of soft material, they are brittle and break with age - no big deal).
Check axle boots for cracks/grease coming out.
Try to get car on the lift and check for leak from transfer case or front diff. General sweating is ok, but drips is not great.
Test drive and listen for any noises especially from transmission. There are a few failures of 4matics, but they tend to be at lower mileage, but if the noise is simply ignored you might be buying an expensive fix.
Test if the car pulls or vibrates at speed (can be as simple as unbalanced wheel).
I've had mine for almost 10 years, since new, and it's been as very reliable and pretty easy to work on (except for the engine mounts).
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