GeriatricGinger

Hi. I searched and 'think' the problem is the ESL module, or related, but what I've read on the symptoms isn't exactly right to what I'm seeing.

Story:
GLK is awesome, 87k miles, love it to death... until this morning. I was pulling the headlight assemblies, as I can't reach the high beam bulbs for replacement. I started the car, turned the wheels to the right, shut it off (so I could start pulling the wheel well liners to remove the bumper cover)..
removed necessary fasteners from the left side, and started on the right side. The tire was in the way, so I went to start it and turn the wheels the opposite direction.. RIP..
Key in, door open (just as before), dash lights up with "Remove key from Ignition", and I go to crank it.. that's when I find it won't crank..
After several ill-fated attempts to start it, I notice that the radio, etc, is not coming on.
I tried depressing the brake, jiggling the steering wheel (in case the lock was stuck), etc. nothing.. the steering is not unlocking, shifter not unlocking, nothing is turning on (aside from aforementioned) , the gear selector is lighting up, the headlights are not working, no AC controls, no radio, etc.
I can manually turn the radio on, and it will play. If I cycle the ignition, I have to manually turn the radio back on.
Arming/disarming the alarm (factory) blinks the park lights, as normal. Headlights and park lights will not turn on with key in RUN position. Parking lights WILL turn on when manually selected. Battery is new, and proper voltages.

So basically the car will NOT:

• Unlock the steering
• Unlock the shifter
• Start
• Power radio on automatically
• Power up climate control

The car WILL:

• Play radio with manual power on
• turn on parking lights manually
• Arm/Disarm alarm

All of the above worked just fine, 15 minutes prior to failing.

I'm going over the fuses (again) now.. Any insight is greatly appreciated.

Mmr1

GeriatricGinger

12.8VDC at rest. Turn the parking lights on and it drops to 12.4-12.5. I don't feel it is a battery issue, as the prior engine start was instant with no drag or slowness, but I'll stick the charger on it anyway.

Thanks for responding.


Edit: Fuses 19 and 27 were fine, as well.

Mmr1

Mmr1

GeriatricGinger

I'll try this, too. Thanks. Charger is on it.
I'll do this, too. I appreciate the responses, guys.

GeriatricGinger

So, both were a no-go. cleaned terminals, charged battery, armed/waited/disarmed sec. system, no changes at all.

Marek_Norway

Actually it looks exactly on faulty ESL, find somebody with error code reader and connect it to your vehicle...do you hear the specific unlocking sound when you put the key in? If not, the motor in ESL module is stuck and can't turn the unlocking mechanism...try hit the steering shaft with the hammer or something similar (at first you need to remove plastic cover above the pedals) ..the steering shaft is little wider on one part, hit into this - esl is located above this wider part...hit and turn the key on position one, if it doesn't unlock, try again...somethimes it helps - helped on my vehicle...but if your EIS is alredy locked, you will need to find somebody with special computer tool to unlock the EIS...

GeriatricGinger

I'll try this once the snow tapers off. Thanks for the suggestion, Marek.

GeriatricGinger

Borrowed my friends Snap-On Verus D10, and scanned the car..
9D90 - The Hall Sensor of the Actuator Motor for Up/Down Steering Column Adjustment has a Malfunction
B190113 - Output 2A for Actuator "Tailgate" has a Malfunction. There is an Open Circuit
B18FD13 - Output 1A for Actuator "Tailgate" has a Malfunction. There is an Open Circuit.
B280015 - The Left Outer Stop Lamp and Taillamp has a Malfunction. There is an Open Circuit.
B219500 - The Power Supply of Circuit 30 is Less than 8.5 V.
B219700 - The Power Supply of Circuit 30g is Less than 8.5 V.
U113E00 - Communication with the battery sensor has a Malfunction.
A254 - The Electric Steering Lock has a Malfunction. There is an implausible signal.


I cleared the codes, powered everything down, set the alarm for 5 minutes, unlocked, hooked the scan tool up, key to RUN, rescanned.. No Codes present, but situation is unchanged.

Marek_Norway

I would go for ESL...if the ESL doesn't unlock the steering wheel, EIS doesn't get a power for starting the engine...do you hear the specific sound when you put the key in? Haven't you realized back in time, the sound was different - slower/quieter like it should be? If yes, it's ESL definitelly...try hitting method, if you succeed, don´t pull out the key from ignition, shut the engine off, disconnect battery and remove ESL from steering shaft...or drive the car to the mechanics, but don't pull the key from ignition...it's much more easier to remove ESL if the steering wheel is not locked...good luck

GeriatricGinger

For S&Gs (****s n giggles), what's involved with using an emulator? I've been reading a bit about them, but I'm still a little confused..
I've read that you have to have it programmed to the EIS, but then I see tons of install videos, etc, where they basically, unplug the ESL, wire in the emulator, and BAM, done..

Is this 'not' the case? Does or does it not need programmed?

amcorak

Welcome to the failed ESL club! I had the exact same problem with my GLK about a month ago. ESL codes with an OBD2 scanner and radio would not turn on automatically. Disconnected battery and pulled the steering column and the steering lock was fortunately not already locked and came off easily. 3 of the roll pins would not come out so i had to drill them out and then replaced the $10 motor with one i got off amazon. One of the roll pins was reusable and then I glued (and duct taped) the box back together and reinstalled the steering column. Use white out or paint to mark the steering wheel position and steering column, my sharpie rubbed off easily. Put the steering wheel back together and fired her up..nothing. I could hear motor was turning but was not sending the unlock signal. Found a guy on ebay (luxe1keys) in San Diego that programs and supplies the ESL emulator for $250. best price i found. Packed up my key and EIS and shipped it to him after paying the auction and he programmed it within 1 day and sent it back. Disconnected the old ESL and hooked up the emulator and she fired right up! The stupid ESL motor was totally burned out just like the pictures you see here. Actually glad I went with the emulator long term so it never happens again.

GeriatricGinger

I ended up doing the same thing, just a tad differently. I bought the emulator on ebay, and found a guy in Dallas, TX on YouTube. He, too, was very efficient in time, and within 3 days total, I shipped my keys and EIS to him, he received, programmed, and shipped back to me. Reinstalled the parts and have been good to go, since.

rb23lb

Get an emulator for the steering lock. Got one the other day in my c class for $750 installed including reprogramming three keys brought in morning fixed same day... had to tow it steering was locked and they removed the old mechanism completely
had to break it out they said