LadyS

The dealership is putting in a brand new transmission and torque converter, along with a loooong list of other parts, on my 2012 GLK.

Obviously, there’s the usual new motor break-in “don’t drive like an idiot” procedures, but do I need to be overly concerned breaking in the new transmission?

I drive in eco mode, rarely ever exceeding 2,000-2,500 rpm under any condition.

I’d like to ensure this probably too expensive unit will (hopefully) survive more than 100,000 miles.

Thanks!

GLK Super Fan

Can i please ask how much it cost to replace the transmission and torque converter? how many miles ur old tranny lasted? what is the reason to replace both?

LadyS

Sure!

At time of failure, the unit had roughly 118,100 miles, and had previously been serviced at 40,000 miles*.

I don’t have the breakdown in front of me, and only know the total from authorizing the repairs.

The total, after tax, was $10,481.00 if I recall correctly. I think they said the transmission and torque converter makes up $7,400 of that.

That total includes the transmission, torque converter, radiator assembly, thermostat, water pump, expansion tank, and all associated hoses, gaskets, and fluids. If it’s rubber, or replaceable, it’s being replaced.

At 118,000 I had the transmission serviced, and noticed a slight hesitation from 2nd to 3rd two days after the service. Assuming it was perhaps low on fluid from being re-filled, I drove it for an additional 5 days, before having a very aggressive shaking from 40 to 50, and the transmission having issues shifting into the proper gear, as it would hold a higher gear for 5-7 miles before down shifting. My initial idea was to take it in on the 8th to have the fluid level checked, but instead left it for diagnostic work. Prior to this, the transmission performed flawlessly, and the service was merely preventative.

So from Monday June 3, to Monday June 8, everything hit the fan, so to speak.

The initial suspicion was that perhaps something in the electronics was upset about the most recent service, but a complete investigation showed that the transmission cooler inside of the radiator had failed, allowing the coolant loop, and transmission fluid loop to intermingle for a few days. Seeing as there was no evidence of coolant at the service on 06/03/2019, it’s probably a significant leak since it went from “fine”, to non-operational in under 100 miles.

*edited to correct performed services, and grammatical errors*

C300fan2

Your tranny failed within 2 days of a service? I’d be taking it to a few different mechanics right away to diagnose how they messed up the service. Too late now. They blamed another part and it was *coinsidence* your tranny failed. I don’t believe it one second. Hopefully your not paying for this out of pocket.

LadyS

We could probably go 12 rounds on who is, or is not to blame.

The independent shop that did the initial service, after checking the fluid level, took it for a test drive (which I went along with while the shop owner drove it), flat out said they weren’t sure the issue, and felt sending it to MB would be the best route for diagnostics. They also offered to perform the final repairs once we knew what was going on, should I so choose. Once it was known that the issue was coolant in the system, I decided to leave it at the dealership. Seeing as it’s *still* sitting at MB, access to a loaner car was the deciding factor.

Is it possible that the radiator was somehow damaged during the service on the transmission? I suppose.

But seeing as the transmission and radiator are several feet apart, I don’t think it’s likely they damaged the cooler while dropping the pan.

Either way, I won’t be losing sleep over trying to find someone to blame this on. Sometimes things that we think shouldn’t break, break anyway.

Other than re-calls, this has been the only non wear item repairs the car has needed, so I’m definitely no bothered about it.

ygmn

DId they flush the tranny fluid out?

If so maybe it was at too high a pressure and the tranny cooler inside radiator was on its least leg and had some weak points due to corrosion or whatever...
Then when they flushed at this high pressure it blew out holes in the cooler and that allowed coolant into tranny which will kill a tranny since it ruins the clutch packs and valve spools will stick.

LadyS

Nope, just the standard drop pan, replace filter, refill procedure. We discussed also draining the torque converter, but as that isn’t even standard procedure at the dealership (even though that’s technically part of the procedure according to MB), I ultimately decided to skip that portion, as they suggested.

LadyS

We’re still waiting on the transmission to arrive from Germany, so I’ve got another few weeks wait.

I’ll have to ask them to save the radiator, would satisfy my curiosity to have someone cut it open, and see where the failure was.

LadyS

SuperFan,
Picked up car up today!

Labor came out to $3,059.15 (at $179/hour)
Parts totaled $6,988.50.

The transmission was $5,900.00, and the torque converter $1,490.00 before core. Core return deduction was $1,290.00 for the transmission, and $238.00 for the torque converter.

They also replaced the radiator, thermostat, upper/lower radiator hoses, expansion reservoir, radiator cap, and assorted screws for a final, revised total of $10,089.55

GLK Super Fan

are you in Canada or state? my dealership in Canada also charge 180 per hr. But man, 10k repair bill i dont know if i ever wants to pay for that. Hopefully the glk will last u for another 5 years

andreigbs

For $10k, that GLK better be bulletproof for 10 more years. That repair bill is insane. Had it been my pocket, I'd have traded it instead.

LadyS

I’m in the U.S.

I’d like to see *far* more than 5 more years! Barring an accident, I’d like to still have this car in 30 years when I retire.

I also think I’ll follow the “new radiator every 5 years” suggestion I’ve seen floating about. $500 on a radiator is *far* less painful.

In regards to trading in: nahhhh. I just spent too long driving a lovely 2019 GLC, and it was too different. The electric steering mechanism, even in “sport” mode was just too soft for my tastes. The motor seemed louder than the 3.5 in my GLK at idle, and I felt like I was just having to push too hard to accelerate from a stop. I rarely break 2,500rpm in the GLK, but that was a typical range for the GLC, getting up above 3k rather regularly. The collision warning was unnerving, and the lane departure was unpredictable, and went off on occasions I was squarely in my lane.

I will miss the bluetooth music streaming, the start/stop at lights, the “hold” feature, and gliding mode. The shifts were more crisp, but the 2 additional forward gears didn’t seem to afford me much lower rpms at highway speeds over the 7 in the GLK.

andreigbs

I'm with you on the GLC. It is not a worthy successor for the GLK in any way. They should have kept the GLK in the line-up instead and refreshed it inside and out. AFAIK, my '14 GLK also has electric-assisted steering, not hydraulic. But it has a nice weighted heft to it, and the steering wheel is nice and chunky too.

The GLC loaner you got was likely the new 2.0L 4-cylinder turbocharged gasser, which explains the higher revs needed to get going and for cruising. The 2 extra gears are to help lower engine revs at cruising speed and to improve fuel economy. We had a similar loaner (including a new E300 4Matic with the same engine) for awhile and we were glad to have Moose back.

As for radiators: you shouldn't need a new one every 5 years. Maybe a coolant flush at most. The untimely demise of your original transmission, IMO, was due to the service it received. No way that was a coincidence. It's unfortunate it cost you ten grand to get it fixed. You could probably have even bought a whole different GLK with that kind of cash. Anyway, hindsight is 20/20. As long as you're happy with it and the car runs great now, that's what matters.

Perhaps in the future when your transmission needs maintenance, spend the $400 or so at the MB for the flush&fill. At least if they botch it up, the repairs will be on MB's dime instead of yours.

Happy motoring!

LadyS

Indeed it was the 2.0l turbo that was in the GLC.

I think, at least looks wise, the GLB would have made a decent successor, but the inside is just outside of my liking. I like all the auxiliary buttons that allow you to control the car without using the COMAND spinner. The GLC was missing a 10-key, though I liked the cleaner “all in one row” presentation.

I know the added gears are for lower highway cruising RPMs, but at 70mph (112kmph) it didn’t afford anything but 4-5 hundred fewer revolutions. I don’t know enough about cars, but figured it would be puttering along between 1,200-1,500, and not 1,500-1,700. My GLK does that speed at an even 2,000.

And yes, I do believe your GLK has electrically boosted steering. I think they changed it over when they did the interior face-lift. It should show up on the build sheet, option 211.

LadyS

I suspect that even had I dropped the $479.00 to
have the dealership do it, they wouldn’t have claimed responsibility for the arising issue.

I think it would be difficult for them to agree working on the transmission pan somehow damaged an internal
structure of the radiator.

With all that said, it doesn’t matter. It’s fixed, and it’s back home.

but I do need to remember to ask them about break-in issues.

andreigbs

Technically, any work the MB dealer does is backed by a 1yr/12k mike warranty. If anything happens that’s even remotely related to a part they touched, they’re responsible for it. This applies whether it’s warranty work or paying customer work.

As for break-in, I believe the general rule applies: don’t drive aggressively, often shifting gears into kickdown for passing and such. Don’t change gears into neutral while coasting, come to a full stop before engaging reverse or park, don’t speed in reverse (I know... but it killed a lot of BMW transmissions in the 3 series), and make sure there are no leaks on the ground in your garage and/or your parking spot.

Since it’s a new transmission, I’d plan on doing an early flush&fill, just to get any break-in metal dust/shavings out of there. If the normal schedule is 60k miles, I’d do it at maybe half that the first time, then every 50-60k thereafter.

LadyS

That’s good to know, thank you! I would have expected a “we were working 4ft away from the radiator, and have nothing to do with the failure.”

I didn't inquire about a warranty on the new unit, and foolishly just assumed it had *something*, but I ran my service advisor absolutely ducking RAGGED around all of this, so I didn’t want to pepper him with 1,000 questions at pick-up. My next service A is due in 1,000 miles, which I intend to have done there, so I was going to ask then about warranty on the parts/labor then.

I have a habit of not coming to a full stop before changing from D to R, so that’ll be a habit to break. I’m not really a “coast in neutral” driver, but it’s been known to happen.

How fast is “too fast” to drive in reverse? I try to never got more than 40 mph in reverse. (I’m kidding, it’s rarely more than 3-5 mph)

the service interval on my model year is either 39,000, or 40,000 miles. I may get my hands dirty, and do a drop/fill myself around 15,000/20,000 miles.

andreigbs

I’d be curious what the new transmission warranty is as well.

Yes, the shifting into gears while still moving is a no no.

3-5 mph (from creeping along at idle to just a bit of throttle up hills) is perfectly fine. The 25+ mph reverse getaways, however, are not.

No disrespect meant but if I had just dropped ten large on a new transmission I’d only want the dealer trained techs touching it. Mainly to preserve any warranty and to deny them the chance to say it wasn’t maintained properly. Once the warranty is done, and with the proper tools including a MB specific scan tool, you might consider doing it yourself. I still wouldn’t, because transmission fluid stinks terribly and ruins everything it’s spilled on. I’ve been there done that and got the new T-shirt as a result. I’ll do anything but mess with transmission and/or differential fluids.

LadyS

Well, supposing there is a 1 year/12,000 mile warranty, I’ll be outside of that when I hit 15,000-20,000 miles on this unit.

Now, should it be something like the 4/50 they do on entirely new vehicles, I’ll drag my *** down there. Particularly since they always seem to be mailing me $150 “service” discount coupons.

The smell of used gear oil reminds me of my dad, so I’m not too bothered by it. I serviced the rear differential back in February without too much drama.

From snooping on this forum, icarsoft seems to have a decent assortment of Mercedes specific scanners. They aren’t SDS, but I probably still won’t break a nail using them.

LadyS

For entertainment purposes, I’ve e-mailed my SA about warranties for the replaces items.

I’ll let you know what he says!

andreigbs

I’m surprised they didn’t tell you that when they finished putting it in. The 1yr/12k miles is just for them working on it. I’m sure the new tranny comes with a warranty of its own.

LadyS

After the multi-week dance we went through, I think he was as excited for me to drive off as I was to be driving my own car again.

douglas_scott

Apparently this is a pretty common occurrence - transmissions being ruined abruptly and without warning by coolant getting from the radiator into the transmission.My service advisor at a large dealership in Dallas told me it used to be an epidemic in earlier years (2000 - 2010). It just happened to my 2011 E550 Coupe (only 61k miles) last week. Was fine on Thursday and trembled on every up-shift on Friday. I parked it and took it to the dealer on Monday and was given the same diagnosis as LadyS, and a similar repair cost of $10,800. I did not even think for a minute about spending that to repair it, even though I've really liked the car for the 4 years I've owned it.

Is repairing, rebuilding, or replacing with a rebuilt transmission a much lower cost and doable alternative in this kind of situation? I know for most other makes and models transmission repair or replacement is pretty common. Of course, this is porbably more complicated and more stuff to contend with and connect to make it just right, but it's hard to believe that, as much as this apparently happens, it's not easy to locate Mercedes transmission specialists.

Anybody know of transmission shops in the Dallas area with significant experience in this kind of work for Mercedes transmissions?

Thanks.

LadyS

It’s really quite shocking how quickly it goes downhill, isn’t it?!

I didn’t explore the rebuild angle, but when I spoke to the owner of the indie shop, he brought up a discussion he had with the company he contracts out rebuilds to regarding this radiator issue. Evidently it’s prevalent enough that the rebuilder won’t warranty the replacement, unless the radiator is replaced, regardless of whether there is evidence of a failure.

So, from that I’m I’m fairly certain that there are shops/companies that rebuild the 7g tronic. I seem to remember him saying that shop was in Georgia, though.