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Hello guys . Thanks for having me in the forum . So i have 2013 GLK 350 and today i decided to change the left tensioner and check valve because i had auful noises on cold start . Everything went well untill i ripped the check valve threads and the valve housing left inside . What can i do to remove the housing ?
Im so frustrated ..... Could i try with screwing a M6 Tap inside and try to pull it out ? Or you guys give me other advice .
Thank you very much ..
I can't really tell what I am looking at here. Is there a check valve stuck in one of those holes? Did you strip the threads?
If there is a check valve that is supposed to screw out and the threads are stripped then yes, try cleaning it up with a flat bottomed tap. Since it is aluminum you could also try to carefully straighten the threads with a sharp hard steel implement. There are also some specialty tools made for reforming threads in cases like this.
I can't really tell what I am looking at here. Is there a check valve stuck in one of those holes? Did you strip the threads?
If there is a check valve that is supposed to screw out and the threads are stripped then yes, try cleaning it up with a flat bottomed tap. Since it is aluminum you could also try to carefully straighten the threads with a sharp hard steel implement. There are also some specialty tools made for reforming threads in cases like this.
Yes actualy the check valve is made from 2 parts , the hreads are crimped inside . When i used slide hammer i ripped them . So now the housing is inside . When i screwed the tap it gripped and now the valve is loose in the hole . Obviously from the factory the surface is hit by something and this prevent the valve to be removed . I have ordered a cone rimmer to remove small amout of the aluminium from the hole to be easy to extract the valve housing . I hope this will work.
have you pulled the housing out yet? last week, I changed the tensioner as well, the rattle is still there after that. Now I'm thinking to change the check valve too.
I got a bolt and nut which fit the inner thread of the check valve perfectly. I'm thinking use this bolt to drag the valve out. How do you think?
have you pulled the housing out yet? last week, I changed the tensioner as well, the rattle is still there after that. Now I'm thinking to change the check valve too.
I got a bolt and nut which fit the inner thread of the check valve perfectly. I'm thinking use this bolt to drag the valve out. How do you think?
Hello , im still struggling to get it out i am searching for propper tools still . We could use some help from the proffesionals here ... my advice dont touch the valve because thread is crimped inside the valve if you rip remove the thread you may be in my situation with the housing inside ......
Hello People , i have success the valve is out .
I am attaching pictures and i wish success to other guys with me . I hope that this can help .
Cheers guys .
congrats, Bro. not easy job, wasn't it. Did u change the check valves because they are gone bad?
I replaced both tensioners left and right, now the rattle on cold start gets better but still fully eliminated. Thinking of replacing both checkvalves.
congrats, Bro. not easy job, wasn't it. Did u change the check valves because they are gone bad?
I replaced both tensioners left and right, now the rattle on cold start gets better but still fully eliminated. Thinking of replacing both checkvalves.
Oh it was a nightmare the last 3 months . You cant check the valves because its a ball with spring and they are encapsulated inside . Be extremely carefull when removing the valves . Buy a decent slide hammer and be gentle .
Hello People , so i replaced the valve but the problem still presists , the car still rattles in startup .....
Same here. I doubt the official remedy really does work to eliminate the rattle. Coz I replace both tensioners with existing both check valves in it, but rattle remains.
plus when in D or R gear, loud tapping or knocking noise come from engine. really annoying MB, so dissappointed.
Have you had the rattle diagnosed by a certified Mercedes tech? It's too bad you had to go this far to have the problem persist.
May I ask the mileage on your car and the symptoms of the problem?
Hey , no i didnt go to mercedes . Mileage is 200670km . The rattling is on every start of the car , its worse when the car is hot ... changed the check valve and the tensioner on cylinders bank 2 and the problem still persists.
Same stuff here .... so Mercedes ****ed with this engine really bad ... even if you change the valve the opening of the head is damaged because it’s aluminium and the new valve cant expand enough to compensate for the damaged opening of the oil gallery therefore the valve cant seal properly and thenhydrolic tensioner returns to untenaioned position. Thats why ... This is my logic explanation ....
Exactly the opposite . The check valve is cansumable part . When you are changing the tensioner and the rattling presist , you need to change the valve also .
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