GLK-Class (X204) Produced 2008-2014

Smartkey is misbehaving

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Old Mar 29, 2022 | 12:26 AM
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2013 GLK 350
Smartkey is misbehaving

Not sure if this is where I post this. New to this sort of thing. But I got a question. Just got a 2013 GLK 350 and the key is acting as it should for the most part. It does unlock/lock/trunk open. And the infrared works as it can do the open and close of the windows holding the lock and unlock buttons. Also the vehicle starts as it should. But when I press buttons the red LED does not appear to be blinking and when the vehicle is locked and I pull on the door handle it doesn't unlock automatically with the key in my pocket. Or it doesn't lock by pressing the little rectangle on the door handle. I checked the antenna fuse in the trunk and it's okay. Is it a faulty key or something else? Oh and I tested the battery and it's at 3 volts. Thanks for any info!
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Old Mar 29, 2022 | 12:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Skidddy
Not sure if this is where I post this. New to this sort of thing. But I got a question. Just got a 2013 GLK 350 and the key is acting as it should for the most part. It does unlock/lock/trunk open. And the infrared works as it can do the open and close of the windows holding the lock and unlock buttons. Also the vehicle starts as it should. But when I press buttons the red LED does not appear to be blinking and when the vehicle is locked and I pull on the door handle it doesn't unlock automatically with the key in my pocket. Or it doesn't lock by pressing the little rectangle on the door handle. I checked the antenna fuse in the trunk and it's okay. Is it a faulty key or something else? Oh and I tested the battery and it's at 3 volts. Thanks for any info!
Try a brand new battery.
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Old Mar 29, 2022 | 05:10 AM
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2006 Alfa Romeo Brera, 2010 GLK350, 2018 BMW 640i GT, 1997 Subaru SVX, 2012 Moto Guzzi Norge GT8V
I second that. Mine was unlocking fine with the (warm) remote but when the remote was cold (short drive in a cold car) it would not lock with the remote. I changed the battery (it showed 3 volts) and it works perfectly again. It's a cheap, easy fix and proceed from there if it doesn't work.
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Old Mar 29, 2022 | 10:37 AM
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From: New Hampsha
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Originally Posted by Skidddy
it doesn't lock by pressing the little rectangle on the door handle.
Just FYI, it should lock if you touch the handle pretty much anywhere on the outer facing surface, not just the rectangle (I think that's the IR sensor).

Not much help, probably, but it sounds like your issue may be centered around the door handles. Can you open the rear hatch?
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Old Mar 29, 2022 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Silver Shadow
I second that. Mine was unlocking fine with the (warm) remote but when the remote was cold (short drive in a cold car) it would not lock with the remote. I changed the battery (it showed 3 volts) and it works perfectly again. It's a cheap, easy fix and proceed from there if it doesn't work.
A more precise voltage measurement from the OP such as 3.0, 3.1, 3.2 etc. would have been useful. Advertised voltage of batteries is a nominal voltage. A new 1.5 volt AA battery, for example, will test at over 1.60 volts. A new 3 volt coin battery will probably be around 3.3 volts etc. This applies to all batteries. If you have a 3v battery measuring 3.0v it is already somewhat discharged. I've seen my Smart Key get a bit flakey at 2.9v

Last edited by MBKLUE; Mar 29, 2022 at 02:34 PM.
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Old Mar 29, 2022 | 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by John CC
Just FYI, it should lock if you touch the handle pretty much anywhere on the outer facing surface, not just the rectangle (I think that's the IR sensor).

Not much help, probably, but it sounds like your issue may be centered around the door handles. Can you open the rear hatch?
I think the KeylessGo door locking/unlocking function is R.F. and not IR since it works even if the key is in your pocket.
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Old Mar 29, 2022 | 12:16 PM
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2013 GLK 350
Half way there

So I installed a new battery. Ya sorry as a mechanic I should of put the actual voltage. The red LED is working now but the keyless entry (keyless-go in Mercedes terms?) Isn't working still. Yes the hatch is working just fine. With the key and on the actual hatch. Is there a setting in the GLK 350 I have to enable? Thank's for all the quick and timely replies. You are all the best.
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Old Mar 29, 2022 | 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Skidddy
So I installed a new battery. Ya sorry as a mechanic I should of put the actual voltage. The red LED is working now but the keyless entry (keyless-go in Mercedes terms?) Isn't working still. Yes the hatch is working just fine. With the key and on the actual hatch. Is there a setting in the GLK 350 I have to enable? Thank's for all the quick and timely replies. You are all the best.

No spare/second key to try?
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Old Mar 29, 2022 | 12:46 PM
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From: New Hampsha
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Originally Posted by Skidddy
Yes the hatch is working just fine. With the key and on the actual hatch.
Just to be clear, you can open the locked hatch by touching the handle with the fob in your pocket? If so, that lets out the fob.

How about the other doors?

You didn't leave the spare key in the car, did you?
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Old Mar 29, 2022 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by John CC
Just to be clear, you can open the locked hatch by touching the handle with the fob in your pocket? If so, that lets out the fob....
Don't recall now... does just touching the rear latch unlock the hatch or does it not unlock until you squeeze inner hatch handle/switch (which also results in it opening when it has the motorized hatch)?

If unlocking the rear hatch requires depressing that inner portion of the handle (the switch) then it's not exactly the same thing as just touching the door handles. If that's the case then the door handles are using touch sensitive circuitry while the rear hatch is a situation where you are depressing an electro-mechanical switch.
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Old Mar 29, 2022 | 02:55 PM
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2013 GLK 350
Update.

I don't have a spare key the vehicle only came with one unfortunately. And when the vehicle is locked and the fob in my pocket. The rear hatch doesn't open (still locked) by squeezing the handle or even being near it. None of the other doors unlock with the fob in my pocket as well. It does have the motorized lift on the hatch.
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Old Mar 29, 2022 | 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Skidddy
I don't have a spare key the vehicle only came with one unfortunately. And when the vehicle is locked and the fob in my pocket. The rear hatch doesn't open (still locked) by squeezing the handle or even being near it. None of the other doors unlock with the fob in my pocket as well. It does have the motorized lift on the hatch.
It still seems to be acting like the battery power is low but if you have a new battery installed... well... There are times, when my smartkey battery is weak, I end up removing the key from my pocket to get the rear hatch to unlock and open.

If the car is yours, and you plan on keeping it for some time, I would spend the money to get a second key and have it programmed. Kind of spendy but some peace of mine. I bought a third key for mine and I rotate them every four months just because.

Don't really have any other ideas, myself. Hopefully someone else on here may.
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Old Mar 29, 2022 | 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Skidddy
I don't have a spare key the vehicle only came with one unfortunately. And when the vehicle is locked and the fob in my pocket. The rear hatch doesn't open (still locked) by squeezing the handle or even being near it. None of the other doors unlock with the fob in my pocket as well. It does have the motorized lift on the hatch.
Saw this elsewhere (from 2020). No resolution noted but one person suggested there's a separate module for the for the doors with the hatch having its own.

"Keyless-Go will not lock/unlock all four doors, however Keyless-Go will lock/unlock the trunk. Could all four door handles need replacing, and does that require removing the door panels? Could there be other solutions?
Thank you."
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Old Mar 29, 2022 | 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by MBKLUE
If unlocking the rear hatch requires depressing that inner portion of the handle (the switch) then it's not exactly the same thing as just touching the door handles.
True, but both functions require the car to sense the fob outside of the car. Sounds like that may be what is failing. Whether it's the fault of the fob or the sensors is still an open question.

But, the fact that it fails both for the doors and the hatch (not touch sensitive) is pointing away from the handles.
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Old Mar 30, 2022 | 01:21 AM
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2013 GLK 350
It's still a mystery

Okay. Well ya, it's either the fob is still not acting fully correct or it's the handle/handles, or it's the RF antenna that is faulty. It's a crying shame that it doesn't work I thought the setting was just deactivated when I bought the vehicle. Even my shops $12000 dollar snapon scanner won't tell me anything, doesn't bring up a single code which I guess is good for the most part. But just not in this certain situation. I'm sure Mercedes has its own proprietary software to diagnose these fiddly things. I will thank you all again for the replies. It was a nice warm welcome to the forum. Ill keep an eye on the thread just in case someone has something else to add on the topic. As I will keep investigating the issue myself and will try to avoid the dreaded trip the dealer for as long as I can. It's a nice feature when it works.
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Old Mar 30, 2022 | 09:18 AM
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If the hatch works the same as all the doors I think you can eliminate the handles as the problem, unless it's deep down in the module that detects handle action. You do need Mercedes diagnostics to figure out what happens (or doesn't happen) when you try to unlock it.
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