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Our GLK has 140,000 kms on it and it started as a high pitched whine, now it is starting to lower in pitch. I've parked it for now and I'm unassuming it's the transfer case.
my questions are,
What is the proper way to troubleshoot and make sure before ordering parts? I'm pretty sure its bearing noise but would like to make sure.
The Fcp euro kit has the 4 internal tapered rollers but the final output shaft bearing to the rear driveshaft isnt there? It looks like a regular bearing not a tapered roller from what I've seen on youtube, where is this bearing available from? It doesnt seem to be at FCP euro?
They list the 2 seal numbers in the kit, and you can buy them separately.
I've been told by a friend at a local MB service shop the seal to the front driveshaft is prone to get damaged when putting the shaft back in, getting the gears meshed and splines on the driveshaft is tuff. I'd like to order an extra seal or 2 as they are only a few dollars, but it doesn't list which one is which? Any idea which one is the front driveshaft seal and which is rear?
ANY help will be greatly appreciated.
thank you!!!
There was a thread maybe a year ago where a guy rebuilt the transfer case and showed it here step by step. I would consider a guaranteed eBay used unit. Is your transfer case part of the transmission? Rebuilding isn’t quick or easy.
There was a thread maybe a year ago where a guy rebuilt the transfer case and showed it here step by step. I would consider a guaranteed eBay used unit. Is your transfer case part of the transmission? Rebuilding isn’t quick or easy.
Yes they are one piece. I couldn't find a thread on it. Its not a real hard job, just want to make sure I have all the parts correctly before starting.
Your noise should vary with speed. Mine would come on around 30mph and get progressively louder until 70mph at which point it's more of whine that becomes hard to hear due to road noise.
Finally got around to looking thru your thread, very comprehensive, good tips as far as the thru bolt being one time use, torque settings, and rear cover bearing. THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!
the kit from FCP is due on the 22nd, I'll order ip the bolt and bearing monday, boxing day will be the day I guess. I dont have a car lift, (have a motorcycle lift, I hate working on cars..lol) so I'll be on my back on the floor. Glad my shop has infloor heat.. lol
Thanks again!!
Last edited by Elroythekid; Dec 17, 2022 at 11:55 AM.
Finally got around to looking thru your thread, very comprehensive, good tips as far as the thru bolt being one time use, torque settings, and rear cover bearing. THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!
the kit from FCP is due on the 22nd, I'll order ip the bolt and bearing monday, boxing day will be the day I guess. I dont have a car lift, (have a motorcycle lift, I hate working on cars..lol) so I'll be on my back on the floor. Glad my shop has infloor heat.. lol
Thanks again!!
lift is not a must if your have car high enough on the jack stands. You will need tilt transmission down to have better access. Getting otter races out was PITA.
Look at my tips on front shaft seal tips, because I screwed that up, and you have to take everything apart to reinstall it.
Make sure not to over-torque any bolts, they can strip easlily
When applying RTV, less is better but needs to be a constant bead and you can't smoosh it when putting cover back on.
Well, I'm off the road for a few days so tomorrow is transfer case day. I have a lift I can use a a friends place which should make it a lot easier. Was looking on line for torque specs for all the bolts, and cant find anything. The thru bolt that goes thru the planetary assembly is important, all the case bolts, and the pan bolts, any idea where to find this Info?
Well, I'm off the road for a few days so tomorrow is transfer case day. I have a lift I can use a a friends place which should make it a lot easier. Was looking on line for torque specs for all the bolts, and cant find anything. The thru bolt that goes thru the planetary assembly is important, all the case bolts, and the pan bolts, any idea where to find this Info?
Ok this is an amazing thread but one thing hasnt been touched on out in the open. There are 2 separate aspects of failure for this T-case. This thread deals with only the expired bearing problem and it deals with it well. The 2nd factor here is the expired u-joint issue. Two ways to know if one has this u-joint problem: speed sensitive roaring/clicking while driving, or get under vehicle and grab front drive shaft near T-case and shake it back n forth violently. If you have play, then you need an output shaft housing. One may need bearings as well but they are 2 different issues.
Ok this is an amazing thread but one thing hasnt been touched on out in the open. There are 2 separate aspects of failure for this T-case. This thread deals with only the expired bearing problem and it deals with it well. The 2nd factor here is the expired u-joint issue. Two ways to know if one has this u-joint problem: speed sensitive roaring/clicking while driving, or get under vehicle and grab front drive shaft near T-case and shake it back n forth violently. If you have play, then you need an output shaft housing. One may need bearings as well but they are 2 different issues.
Well, I'm off the road for a few days so tomorrow is transfer case day. I have a lift I can use a a friends place which should make it a lot easier. Was looking on line for torque specs for all the bolts, and cant find anything. The thru bolt that goes thru the planetary assembly is important, all the case bolts, and the pan bolts, any idea where to find this Info?
you can search online for mb wsm that has all specs.
through bolt is torque plus angle iirc (one time use)
Wsm tells you replace end roller bearing as well
i will try to post wsm pages tomorrow when I get to my computer.
good luck
you can search online for mb wsm that has all specs.
through bolt is torque plus angle iirc (one time use)
Wsm tells you replace end roller bearing as well
i will try to post wsm pages tomorrow when I get to my computer.
good luck
Sounds like you wound up on the MBUSA or MBCA site. That’s expensive and you don’t need it. The WIS is the shop manual for everything through the year of the edition. You can get disks from eBay for last year’s version for $10-$15. If all you want are those torque specs, many people on this forum have a copy — I don’t. Maybe one of them will notice and look them up for you.
Didnt get a chance to post this yesterday but all went well, actually is a pretty easy job. Had 2 bearings that were in pretty bad condition, the front one on the main shaft up against the transmission output shaft, the second the forward one on the front drive output shaft. The seal wasnt a big deal you just need to be careful. I have a small endoscope camera I used to get it lined up, pulled the camera out and slid it home. Easy peasy.
I'm kind of disappointed in the design of the front output shaft design. The slip yolk sh ou old be on the front joint and have enough travel you can remove the driveshaft, and the seal sh oki uld be external so it can be done without tearing down the transfer case. But, it is what it is.
THANKS to all for the help, I dont work on many cars I'm a motorcycle mechanic, and love my time in my shop with various 2 wheeled projects I have. I worked many years at a Kawasaki shop so a lot of them are Kawasaki as far as restorations. I did buy an 86 Chev c10 4x4 out of the California desert, that's my next project, as far as 4 wheelers..
thanks again!!!
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