M276 Bank 2 intake adjuster sprocket video diagnosis
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M276 Bank 2 intake adjuster sprocket video diagnosis
After waiting for parts and watching videos for 2 weeks it took me all of 20 minutes to break into bank 2. I feel like Neo in the Matrix over here.
Sounds bad to me, but took me 3 or 4 trips around to find it, let alone capture it. More a sound than an oil puke or skip like so many.
Seems like a barely bad adjuster. I've seen every video, and only one as subtly bad as mine. Startup rattle works it way through the timing wrecking havock, but feel I caught this one early, yet at 135k.
I haven't pulled the intake or CPSs to check timing down the holes. Doubt I will.
I will be replacing the tensioner and tapping in a check valve. I got the non stepped one, hoping that's right. Got 8 new MB aluminum bolts too 🙄 then thought wonder if I could replace them with regular 10mm bolts in case I gotta get back in there and do the exhaust side.
I'll do the other sides tensioner and check valve if this works out.
Bought the car 1000 miles ago with the rattle, but a good Carfax history. After pulling 1k on it with the rattle at startup it threw a P0346, CPS.
My bank 2 intake sprocket... 15 second video
https://youtube.com/shorts/M5Pc0bUOKSs?feature=share3
The one sounds closest to mine.. 9 seconds in
Every other video you watch of a bad adjuster sprocket it's like puke skip oh man that's horrible get that out of there.
Going to pull everything old tomorrow and button it back up with a $100 2760503600. Putting my VIN into parts sites and every one said I needed a 2760505100. Open the damn thing up and it's got a 2760501947 in it 🤦 it's all good I got confidence imma get outta this rattle for under $300.
Sounds bad to me, but took me 3 or 4 trips around to find it, let alone capture it. More a sound than an oil puke or skip like so many.
Seems like a barely bad adjuster. I've seen every video, and only one as subtly bad as mine. Startup rattle works it way through the timing wrecking havock, but feel I caught this one early, yet at 135k.
I haven't pulled the intake or CPSs to check timing down the holes. Doubt I will.
I will be replacing the tensioner and tapping in a check valve. I got the non stepped one, hoping that's right. Got 8 new MB aluminum bolts too 🙄 then thought wonder if I could replace them with regular 10mm bolts in case I gotta get back in there and do the exhaust side.
I'll do the other sides tensioner and check valve if this works out.
Bought the car 1000 miles ago with the rattle, but a good Carfax history. After pulling 1k on it with the rattle at startup it threw a P0346, CPS.
My bank 2 intake sprocket... 15 second video
https://youtube.com/shorts/M5Pc0bUOKSs?feature=share3
The one sounds closest to mine.. 9 seconds in
Every other video you watch of a bad adjuster sprocket it's like puke skip oh man that's horrible get that out of there.
Going to pull everything old tomorrow and button it back up with a $100 2760503600. Putting my VIN into parts sites and every one said I needed a 2760505100. Open the damn thing up and it's got a 2760501947 in it 🤦 it's all good I got confidence imma get outta this rattle for under $300.
Last edited by GLKwanter; Jun 23, 2023 at 11:39 PM.
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From: South Texas
2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
.. snip ..
Going to pull everything old tomorrow and button it back up with a $100
2760503600
Putting my VIN into parts sites and every one said I needed a
2760505100
Open the damn thing up and it's got a
2760501947
in it 🤦 it's all good I got confidence imma get outta this rattle for under $300
Going to pull everything old tomorrow and button it back up with a $100
2760503600
Putting my VIN into parts sites and every one said I needed a
2760505100
Open the damn thing up and it's got a
2760501947
in it 🤦 it's all good I got confidence imma get outta this rattle for under $300
My reply is focused on the Part#'s you show. No, I'm not asking for clarification or confirmation ... just thought I'd bring attention - but maybe you already know the system (?).
Every manufacturer has a structure to their part numbering system. I did a quick search and found a couple of decent explanations.
In this post, you offer three different part# ... it's my experience that a portion of a part# pertains to the "version" of a part - for example, "001" is the first version, "002" supercedes it - and should be used because "002" fixed an issue that commonly ocurred with "001".
I'm not claiming that here ... just want you to be aware of the potential.
A couple references
https://www.benzworld.org/threads/me...ystem.1825929/
https://www.rockymountainmoggers.com...bersystem.html
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Thanks for taking the time to post this, and to include a YouTube video !!
My reply is focused on the Part#'s you show. No, I'm not asking for clarification or confirmation ... just thought I'd bring attention - but maybe you already know the system (?).
Every manufacturer has a structure to their part numbering system. I did a quick search and found a couple of decent explanations.
In this post, you offer three different part# ... it's my experience that a portion of a part# pertains to the "version" of a part - for example, "001" is the first version, "002" supercedes it - and should be used because "002" fixed an issue that commonly ocurred with "001".
I'm not claiming that here ... just want you to be aware of the potential.
A couple references
https://www.benzworld.org/threads/me...ystem.1825929/
https://www.rockymountainmoggers.com...bersystem.html
My reply is focused on the Part#'s you show. No, I'm not asking for clarification or confirmation ... just thought I'd bring attention - but maybe you already know the system (?).
Every manufacturer has a structure to their part numbering system. I did a quick search and found a couple of decent explanations.
In this post, you offer three different part# ... it's my experience that a portion of a part# pertains to the "version" of a part - for example, "001" is the first version, "002" supercedes it - and should be used because "002" fixed an issue that commonly ocurred with "001".
I'm not claiming that here ... just want you to be aware of the potential.
A couple references
https://www.benzworld.org/threads/me...ystem.1825929/
https://www.rockymountainmoggers.com...bersystem.html
Before that I removed the tensioner to find there's already a check valve back there. Which means in 135k she's probably already gone through two tensioners, the one I just pulled out sticks in. Could be the original someone pulled out and put a check valve behind, but even so the check valve doesn't seem to save them. I've read on here MB used 0w40 in these to gain mph at the expense of longevity, and that some use a thicker weight in their 276s.
I would love to pull that check valve and put the new onei have in, but I don't see anything online about that except one guy who broke one really bad trying. I got a bolt that threads into it nicely, but nothing to pull it out straight.
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There’s the oil thing again. There are lots of opinions around.
M1 0W-40 Euro is used to improve starting, and lubrication during warm up, in cold climates, not fuel efficiency. At operating temperatures it is has 40 weight oil viscosity. The BeVo spec 229.5 has lots of other approved choices at various weights.
If you decide to go off the recommended list, be sure to match the high zinc and phosphorus content of the M1 0W-40 because that is ultimately more important to lifetime than viscosity numbers. There is 15W-50 oil out there if you want it.
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Great documentation, so just take this lightly.
There’s the oil thing again. There are lots of opinions around.
M1 0W-40 Euro is used to improve starting, and lubrication during warm up, in cold climates, not fuel efficiency. At operating temperatures it is has 40 weight oil viscosity. The BeVo spec 229.5 has lots of other approved choices at various weights.
If you decide to go off the recommended list, be sure to match the high zinc and phosphorus content of the M1 0W-40 because that is ultimately more important to lifetime than viscosity numbers. There is 15W-50 oil out there if you want it.
There’s the oil thing again. There are lots of opinions around.
M1 0W-40 Euro is used to improve starting, and lubrication during warm up, in cold climates, not fuel efficiency. At operating temperatures it is has 40 weight oil viscosity. The BeVo spec 229.5 has lots of other approved choices at various weights.
If you decide to go off the recommended list, be sure to match the high zinc and phosphorus content of the M1 0W-40 because that is ultimately more important to lifetime than viscosity numbers. There is 15W-50 oil out there if you want it.
Turns out the job isn't that easy. The camshafts moved on me and I had to remove the valve cover. I've got bank 2 cams locked down now and I'm trying to get the new adjuster in at the same marks on the chain, which to remove the tensioner I read the marks on the cam adjuster should point down and in at 40° so that's where it's at. But to set the timing I read the marks on the cam adjusters should be pointing up and out. I'll take any advice anyone has
Wish me luck...
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'17 GLS450, '14 GLK250, Grandpa's Roadster
Are you saying the chain shifted on the sprockets? If not, then the timing hasn't changed. Put the tensioner back and everything will be fine!
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video of it..
Edit: So she should be timed correctly right?
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From: New Hampsha
'17 GLS450, '14 GLK250, Grandpa's Roadster
Did the chain come off the crank? (N)
Did you get the chain back on the cams in exactly the same positions (Y)
Not sure what you mean by "Marks didn't match on my first attempt, but they did on the 2nd." What changed between the first and second attempts? (Nothing)
If your answers to all three questions are the same as the things in parenthesis then you should be good to go.
Did you get the chain back on the cams in exactly the same positions (Y)
Not sure what you mean by "Marks didn't match on my first attempt, but they did on the 2nd." What changed between the first and second attempts? (Nothing)
If your answers to all three questions are the same as the things in parenthesis then you should be good to go.
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Did the chain come off the crank? (N)
Did you get the chain back on the cams in exactly the same positions (Y)
Not sure what you mean by "Marks didn't match on my first attempt, but they did on the 2nd." What changed between the first and second attempts? (Nothing)
If your answers to all three questions are the same as the things in parenthesis then you should be good to go.
Did you get the chain back on the cams in exactly the same positions (Y)
Not sure what you mean by "Marks didn't match on my first attempt, but they did on the 2nd." What changed between the first and second attempts? (Nothing)
If your answers to all three questions are the same as the things in parenthesis then you should be good to go.
I kept the chain up around the exhaust cam the entire time, and it was marked, which means I put some yellow paint on it. Intake and exhaust cams were both marked. What I meant was my first attempt didn't get the cam on my marks exactly, but I just pulled and did it again, no rotation.
Because both cams slipped I had to pull the valve, cover lock them down, turn the intake cam back a few degrees with a vise as well as the exhaust cam to give me the chain slack I needed to get the new intake adjuster on. After getting it on at the right mark I was going to turn the crank, but saw the chain would have walkes off without the tensioner pin pulled. I pulled the pin it tightened the slack, and all of my yellow paint marks matched up. Again I've rotated a few times and every other time at 53° tone wheels look very centered through CPS holes.
I believe what I ended up doing was putting on the new adjuster and tensioner at bottom TDC, the laser marks on the cam both down and pointing inward. Not up and out like all the videos on YouTube show them when setting the timing. The instructions i watched called for the laser marks to be down and in at 40° TDC to get slack off the tensioner.
Been working on it all day. Should have it all back together tomorrow morning and I'll push the start button 🤞🤞
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She's alive!
Well I didn't screw it up. She's running again. No codes. Startup was rough for a few seconds, cranked a bit what with no fuel in the rails. Rattled with no oil up top for 3 days. Second start smooth, of course. After an hour and a half I started it again to a little rattle. I wanna hear it tomorrow morning. I honestly wasn't expecting the noise to go away. Like I said the bank 2 tensioner was failed, but with a check valve behind it. I'd bet bank 1 needs a tensioner too, maybe an adjustment. Probably best to do the full job, but being my first time tearing into a 276 and having to go a lot further than expected I'll take it as a win just knowing the new parts are in and timing is on. I'm sure in the future I'll be breaking into bank 1.
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Well I didn't screw it up. She's running again. No codes. Startup was rough for a few seconds, cranked a bit what with no fuel in the rails. Rattled with no oil up top for 3 days. Second start smooth, of course. After an hour and a half I started it again to a little rattle. I wanna hear it tomorrow morning. I honestly wasn't expecting the noise to go away. Like I said the bank 2 tensioner was failed, but with a check valve behind it. I'd bet bank 1 needs a tensioner too, maybe an adjustment. Probably best to do the full job, but being my first time tearing into a 276 and having to go a lot further than expected I'll take it as a win just knowing the new parts are in and timing is on. I'm sure in the future I'll be breaking into bank 1.
Nice work :-)
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2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
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Hi Could you please explain once more what you mean below. I am thinking of doing this job myself and still confused should the mark on cam adjuster up/outward on bank 2 or it should be down/inwards. I saw couple video as you and everyone is different. some did down to change tensioner and some showed up. I am changing cam adjuster intake bank 2 + tensioner and possibly valve if already not installed. per bulletin my should already have check valve and newer tensioner.
2014 E350 Sports Base with 83000 miles. Any help is greatly appreciated.
I believe what I ended up doing was putting on the new adjuster and tensioner at bottom TDC, the laser marks on the cam both down and pointing inward. Not up and out like all the videos on YouTube show them when setting the timing. The instructions i watched called for the laser marks to be down and in at 40° TDC to get slack off the tensioner.
2014 E350 Sports Base with 83000 miles. Any help is greatly appreciated.
I believe what I ended up doing was putting on the new adjuster and tensioner at bottom TDC, the laser marks on the cam both down and pointing inward. Not up and out like all the videos on YouTube show them when setting the timing. The instructions i watched called for the laser marks to be down and in at 40° TDC to get slack off the tensioner.
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Hi Could you please explain once more what you mean below. I am thinking of doing this job myself and still confused should the mark on cam adjuster up/outward on bank 2 or it should be down/inwards. I saw couple video as you and everyone is different. some did down to change tensioner and some showed up. I am changing cam adjuster intake bank 2 + tensioner and possibly valve if already not installed. per bulletin my should already have check valve and newer tensioner.
2014 E350 Sports Base with 83000 miles. Any help is greatly appreciated.
I believe what I ended up doing was putting on the new adjuster and tensioner at bottom TDC, the laser marks on the cam both down and pointing inward. Not up and out like all the videos on YouTube show them when setting the timing. The instructions i watched called for the laser marks to be down and in at 40° TDC to get slack off the tensioner.
2014 E350 Sports Base with 83000 miles. Any help is greatly appreciated.
I believe what I ended up doing was putting on the new adjuster and tensioner at bottom TDC, the laser marks on the cam both down and pointing inward. Not up and out like all the videos on YouTube show them when setting the timing. The instructions i watched called for the laser marks to be down and in at 40° TDC to get slack off the tensioner.
Basically it doesn't matter up or down as long as you're at 40, mark the adjusters the chain and the block, and get everything back not one tooth off.
I assume you have labored idol at startup if you're swapping the adjuster, with a startup rattle and possibly a check engine light giving a CPS code? I had all of the above, and new tensioners and adjusters didn't stop the rattle after the work was performed, but 2,000 miles later I can say the rattle is gone. Disappeared.
The problem is the oil, and maintenance. Dirty passageways. Motul 5w40 has my m276 purring like a lion.
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Thank you for quick response.
Current ODO Meter Reading 83000
From day 1 i changed my MB engine oil every 3500-4000 miles with 0w-40 Mobil 1 and Purflex L394 filter which is mercedes OE Filter. Some may say this is extreme but i thought cheap insurance again the motor component.
Yes i have rattle at cold start or if i start after 5-6 hours for 4-5 seconds, Engine fires right up so no delay on startup. I am getting P002177 (The Position Of the intake camshaft ( Cylinder Bank 2) Deviates from the Specified Value.
The Command Position Cannot be reached) but no check engine light. Car drive beautifully once oil pressure builds up. Last Oil change i did 1000miles ago so oil is still fresh.
My year comes with check valve installed with updated tensioner per mb bulletin so best bet for me is to change left cam intake adjuster.
I am also planning to change tensioner/ Cam valve/bolt and genuine mercedes cam adjuster/ solenoid magnets. all at once. This is costing me almost $1500 for parts but i want to do it right.
One thing i read regarding chain jumps during removal from intake cam adjuster. Other suggested to Hold the exhaust cam with a little couter pressure during the chain removal and this will stop the cam from jumping, because of this reason i ordered 2 T100 torx socket.
This is what i am going to try first. My 2014 E350 is a pain removing intake manifold and head but thats my second option if i really have to do. Hoping i dont have to do that.
Current ODO Meter Reading 83000
From day 1 i changed my MB engine oil every 3500-4000 miles with 0w-40 Mobil 1 and Purflex L394 filter which is mercedes OE Filter. Some may say this is extreme but i thought cheap insurance again the motor component.
Yes i have rattle at cold start or if i start after 5-6 hours for 4-5 seconds, Engine fires right up so no delay on startup. I am getting P002177 (The Position Of the intake camshaft ( Cylinder Bank 2) Deviates from the Specified Value.
The Command Position Cannot be reached) but no check engine light. Car drive beautifully once oil pressure builds up. Last Oil change i did 1000miles ago so oil is still fresh.
My year comes with check valve installed with updated tensioner per mb bulletin so best bet for me is to change left cam intake adjuster.
I am also planning to change tensioner/ Cam valve/bolt and genuine mercedes cam adjuster/ solenoid magnets. all at once. This is costing me almost $1500 for parts but i want to do it right.
One thing i read regarding chain jumps during removal from intake cam adjuster. Other suggested to Hold the exhaust cam with a little couter pressure during the chain removal and this will stop the cam from jumping, because of this reason i ordered 2 T100 torx socket.
This is what i am going to try first. My 2014 E350 is a pain removing intake manifold and head but thats my second option if i really have to do. Hoping i dont have to do that.
Last edited by sayeedahm; Sep 21, 2023 at 06:42 PM.
