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I have a 2013 GLK 350 and there was a little puddle of fluid on the front mud shield. I pulled it off and there was drop hanging on the corner underneath the radiator right underneath the cap to drain the coolant. I can see some corrossion (white build up) so I assume it has been leaking for some time. I checked the fluid level and it does not look like it has move (It is right at the the place where the black and white piece comes together in the coolant resevoir.) It looks like it is leaking from the rear radiator (not sure if there are 2 radiators on this as the entire thing is encased in plastic.
So my question is this? Are there more than one radiator and is this something someone can do as a DIY? Should I put any radiator sealant in system?
There is only one radiator - the one in front is the air conditioner condenser (do not disconnect it). ;-)
Also, do NOT put in a sealant. That's just begging to have REAL problems later when it starts clogging up the heater core and messing with the pump.
I'd suggest one of two ways to determine where the leak is... First, you can just trace the white residue up to its source. Second, you could add some UV dye (available at a parts store) to the coolant, and check for "new leaks" with a black light (should be pretty obvious). Only then will you know what the best course of action is. Could be a bad hose, loose / bad clamp, bad radiator, or even just a slightly open drain valve.
There is only one radiator - the one in front is the air conditioner condenser (do not disconnect it). ;-)
Also, do NOT put in a sealant. That's just begging to have REAL problems later when it starts clogging up the heater core and messing with the pump.
I'd suggest one of two ways to determine where the leak is... First, you can just trace the white residue up to its source. Second, you could add some UV dye (available at a parts store) to the coolant, and check for "new leaks" with a black light (should be pretty obvious). Only then will you know what the best course of action is. Could be a bad hose, loose / bad clamp, bad radiator, or even just a slightly open drain valve.
It looks like it is leaking from the metal clamps that are attaching it to the plastic. I looked on line and did not see anything about removal of radiator. Any ideas where I can get the steps? It looks like it is time consuming. I will not add sealant.
That failure is common to SO many modern vehicles, designed around an aluminum finned radiator with plastic end caps. There's really nothing to do BUT replace the radiator itself.
Yours is a 2013, so it could be a little different, but here's a link to a helpful DIY (never did it myownself, so have nothing more to add)...
So I am going to buy new radiator and attempt to put it in. I did as much research as possible to prepare myself. So, during my research and trying to find a compatible radiator I kept seeing the acronym PZEV. I researched this and it says it can be for gas or zero emission. I looked under hood to see if I could look at the emissions info and there is no sticker, I then looked at driver door and nothing, How do I tell if I have a PZEV vehicle or not? There are different radiators ad I want to make sure I get the right one.
PZEV = Partial Zero Emissions Vehicle
That means it has zero evaporative emissions, and therefore special components to achieve this.
Enter your VIN into lastvin.com to get your data card. A PZEV vehicle should have code 917 listed.
I’m ok to attempt and install myself. My biggest concern is having coolant go into transmission. Is there a way to prevent that? I do not see how to remove lines from radiator. One says to unscrew 25mm nuts and other says don’t do it. I don’t want to screw this up. Thoughts?
2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
Originally Posted by Dhollenback
One says to unscrew 25mm nuts and other says don’t do it.
I've never changed the radiator on our 2014 GLK Base, but in the last couple of years, I replaced the radiator in our 2001 Jeep and our MB E320.
You HAVE to remove the tranny lines from the radiator when replacing it. I simply undo the nuts, pull the line away, then plug the end of the line. I usually use a small stick of wood shaven like a pencil. (I have actually used the sharpened end of two pencils ). But anything will do, such as a rubber plug. It's not like tranny fluid is gonna come gushing out.
Then remove the various radiator securing bolts. Then remove the coolant hoses, plus any other lines.
Pull rad out, insert new, then install tranny lines, hoses/ etc, then securing bolts.
Both jobs took about an hour for each.
Last edited by calder-cay; 10-22-2023 at 03:20 PM.
I thought vehicles with start-stop technology got the PZEV moniker. Not true? I also thought it was more marketing than anything else.
I thought it was mostly California vehicles. They probably stayed PZ for about a year and the all the expensive added stuff just deteriorated and then they became like the rest. I guess what’s important is that he gets the right parts.
I’m ok to attempt and install myself. My biggest concern is having coolant go into transmission. Is there a way to prevent that? I do not see how to remove lines from radiator. One says to unscrew 25mm nuts and other says don’t do it. I don’t want to screw this up. Thoughts?
I know what you’re referring to. The Pelican Parts link by @habbyguy shows unscrewing the 25mm connectors. The comments caution against doing it.
Over the years MB has used a number of different ways to connect these lines. Some are screwed right in as described by @calder-cay . Others are quick connections with sleeves to hold the lines in place.
Either way, if you completely drain the radiator, there shouldn’t be any concern with getting coolant into the transmission lines.
BTW — Do this work with the engine completely cool. And wear nitrile or vinyl gloves, not rubber. Ethylene glycol coolant vapors and liquid coolant absorbed though the skin can cause kidney damage.
I thought it was mostly California vehicles. They probably stayed PZ for about a year and the all the expensive added stuff just deteriorated and then they became like the rest. I guess what’s important is that he gets the right parts.
Yeah, I looked it up. A false assumption on my part. Probably because all the PZEV vehicles I ran into were also start-stop.
So I just changed ATF Fluid. I know when I swap out radiator I need to top it off again. Do I have to change transfer case fluid with same ATF that I changed ATF fluid, filter and gasket with in transmission? I am confused as I am having difficulty understanding what I am reading. Thanks
Last edited by Dhollenback; 10-22-2023 at 09:46 PM.
So I just changed ATF Fluid. I know when I swap out radiator I need to top it off again. Do I have to change transfer case fluid with same ATF that I changed ATF fluid, filter and gasket with in transmission? I am confused as I am having difficulty understanding what I am reading. Thanks
Just top it off. The GLK transfer case gets its fluid from the transmission.
I pulled radiator out and the clip that goes from the reservoir to the radiator sprung somewhere and I can’t find it. I looked for over an hour and nothing. I need to buy another one but there are no diagrams that show the Parr number for the spring. I can find the hose but no spring. The house looks like it is an inch in diameter and goes from bottom of coolant reservoir straight to the lower right hand side of radiator. Any help would be awesome. Thanks
The hose is number 200. The is no clamp on diagram so I have no idea what size. #200 hose is what I need clamp for that slides into grooves of radiator to attach the hose
2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
Originally Posted by Dhollenback
I pulled radiator out and the clip that goes from the reservoir to the radiator sprung somewhere and I can’t find it.
I'm pretty sure there isn't a "clip that goes from the reservoir to the radiator"
The clamp is either at the reservoir connection, or at the radiator connection side. Let us know ... in the morning, I'll go out to our 2014 GLK350 and check it out.
There is a wire clip that secures the overflow hose to the radiator. It is the second rubber hose from the top that is on the passengers side. You can kind of see that there is a hose under the bigger hose. Hope that helps.
2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
Originally Posted by Dhollenback
There is a wire clip that secures the overflow hose to the radiator.
Okay, finally got a picture, just so we're on the same page, and so others can see.
Check photo - it's a zoomed in shot of that hose, with arrows pointing at the securing clip. Personally, I'd classify that as a circlip. And yea, those clips are spring-loaded, so I can imagine one zooming off.
I would think that part is available at the dealership or maybe FCPEuro.
It appears that the clips only come with a new hose. Also Mercedes they asked for the last 8 of VIN because it appears that the clips are not all created equally.
I agree with buying new hoses, I already have easy access.
Well I’m done. Took almost 6 hours to do. Now I am ready to bleed. I filled up coolant with car in ramps. Now that it is filled I need to bleed. How long do I let car run and how do I know that fluid is flowing right and has no air in system.?
2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
Originally Posted by Dhollenback
Well I’m done. Took almost 6 hours to do. Now I am ready to bleed. I filled up coolant with car in ramps. Now that it is filled I
need to bleed. How long do I let car run and how do I know that fluid is flowing right and has no air in system.?
I don't have a shop manual handy for the GLK ... on a couple of other vehicles I've done, there is a bleeder fitting, which is cracked open, and add coolant until it dribbles out, then close it.
10-21-2023, 02:57 PM
). But anything will do, such as a rubber plug. It's not like tranny fluid is gonna come gushing out.
