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Go buy some nuts & bolts and try it out for yourself.
I didn't mean to start a pissing contest. That's why I edited that part out of my response while you were quoting it.
For years, I taught my students best practices. Just thought others might benefit. The friction drag torque increases rapidly and becomes increasingly more significant as you approach the desired torque.
In fact, IIRC, the threads on the bolt actually pull it through the fitting, so the drag torque must be significant..
Understood. This is my first time doing all this suspension stuff on my high mileage GLK. So I welcome any tips and tricks. I will not be this repair again on the ground and will just have my alignment guy do all the torque stuff.
I will obtain the offical WIS for this repair proceedure. I'm almost certain the documents will recommend the bolt side for the regular bolt, nut side for the special repair camber bolt. All of the other similar Mercedes models have it that way like the W212, W204, CLS...
Just an anecdote to this discussion, but in torque critical applications, it’s almost always the nut that’s tightened. Automotive head bolts are an exception. But in competition engines those bolts are often replaced with studs and nuts. And a nut or bolt plus washer can’t be substituted for a flanged nut or bolt because the torque values will change. On our high pressure flanges, nuts were first torqued onto threaded studs and then the torque was increased until the studs had stretched a specific amount.
The old hardware should be grade 12 also. Are you talking about how it says M14 in the torque specs, if so that is the size.
Those bolts are mentioned in the alignment section:
I was going to mention I want to replace the bushings on the rear wheel carrier and one of the nuts is hard to get to due to the other control arm in the way so i can only fit a wrench on it and not a socket. I can remove it easy enough but torqueing it will be a pain and the bolt head is a triple square so installing the bolt reversed is not an option. To torque the nut down I plan on using a torque extension, basically a closed head wrench that I can fit the torque wrench to. The extension is around $20. It gets expensive working on these things, I had to pay a little over $200 for each bushing removal tool.
No the nuts I was supplied with through the Mercedes dealer gave me a bigger flange nut with the regular non adjustable bolt.. The original nuts on my car have no flange. You can see the difference between these two. Some of the hardware kits have both versions and some have a nyloc nuts suppilied. The nyloc nut is N000000008261
The nuts currently on the car have like three or four more threads and have a higher strength than the old ones I had. That link you provided specifically says 80Nm for 10.9 hardware, 100Nm for 11.9 hardware..
OK, here's another helpful hint: If you use a torque wrench with an extension like the one in post #32, position the extension at 90 degrees to the axis of the torque wrench and no calculation is necessary.
With all the input - do need to point out, remind - these OEM one position offset bolts (Front suspension only) offer a miniscule 2mm (less than 1/8“) adjustment. Which equates to 0.3 of a degree !
Because of cost savings and ever increasing speed of new car assembly lines NOW ONLY BASIC FRONT AND REAR TOE - DIRECTIONAL ADJUSTMENT IS PROVIDED.
No front Camber and Caster along with rear Camber - essential to allow to adjust tire contact angles. Prevent costly, premature excess edge tire wear.
Extra passenger side edge wear through high cambered roads. Excess inner edge wear both sides through lowering or load carrying. Outer edge wear through spirited driving. Ongoing adjustment for curb knock damage.
At K-MAC we saw the need therefore to “FIX IT RIGHT THE 1ST TIME” - Providing “Serious adjustment” (4 times that of the one offset bolts).
“Bolt-On” for Front and Rear - No special tools needed - OR TIME CONSUMING NEED TO REMOVE CONTROL ARMS TO INSTALL !
Also replacing “at the same time” - the 4 front highest wearing bushings.
Ultimate adjustment - easily accessible single wrench - direct on alignment rack UNDER LOAD !
SEE SPOILER RE TOTAL SYSTEM ALL W204/X Incl. AMG & Black Series.
Spoiler
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AUDI to VOLVO - Experience Resolving OEM Suspension Shortcomings (and costs) Since 1964 !
IMHO, those nuts, bolts and washers could outlast five cars. Serious hardware that I wouldn't be able to hurt without a six foot breaker bar (and room to swing it). I honestly can't imagine ever having a problem re-using the hardware unless it's a rust or accident issue.
If you are using the camber adjustment bolts, you probably shouldn't reuse the hardware. The bolt specifically is missing like 50% of the threads for that cutaway slot so it is going to be weaker than the regular bolt. I re-used my original hardware for 3 months and I agree it was fine.
So caveat emptor for this repair process. Your torque specs will be different depending on the hardware you source. Use your best judgement figuring out the tools and torque you need. It seems like mercedes is now only providing the 21mm hex bolt instead of the E20 bolt for the control arm bolts. Not sure if that workshop guide is updated or valid for the new hardware.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
