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I have a 2014 GLK 350 4matic. Sometimes I can't get the parking brake to release. If I drive with the parking brake on I get messaged to release it. eventually it will release. Has anyone experienced this? Any one know of a fix? Thanks, Ron in Cardiff, Ca
^^^ Agreed, just make sure you don't get it on the rear brake disc(s) too.
You may need to set the parking brake and pull the release several times, to make sure it fully engages and detaches cleanly. You don't want to drive around with the parking brake slightly holding you back; wasting fuel, overheating your brake disc(s) and possibly cooking your rear wheel bearing(s) too.
2006 Alfa Romeo Brera, 2010 GLK350, 2018 BMW 640i GT, 1997 Subaru SVX, 2012 Moto Guzzi Norge GT8V
10 years in Cardiff by the Sea and it may be time to replace the guts of your parking brake due to corrosion. We have a lot of salt on the roads here in the winter. When I looked at mine a couple of years ago, the whole works kinda crumbled and fell apart.
On my W204 all the parking brake springs along with the dust shields were severely rusted. Shields were so rusted the hold down springs would no longer hold, the metal would just break off. I replaced the shields and parking brake hardware and they work line new again.
To make the job much easier instead of removing the hubs to get the shields off and on I simply used metal snips and cut the old ones off, I took the new ones and cut them in half with a hack saw so there were two mounting bolt holes on each side and was able to fit them on that way.
roncel:: I just experienced that yesterday with a 2013 GLK350 I purchased the night before.
I had released it during my drive home with the vehicle, but yesterday it would not go off and I got the same warnings not to drive.
MY SOLUTION: I found that if you 1.) keep the brake pedal down while the car is in Park, then 2.) Pull the Brake Release lever and HOLD IT OUT for a good 5-Mississippi count, the light will go off.
Apparently they don't want anyone to accidentally release the parking brake. (I know.... I was expecting the same kind of mechanical clunk that my Buick Enclave used to emit... the MB is a silent operation.)
Let us know if that works for you.
2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
We don't have to do a Miss. count. For us, it's a cold weather condition (very obvious), which some folks may not connect with.
On our 2014 GLK Base, I've noticed "hesitation" from the moment I pull the brake release handle until the "brake" light on dash is extinguished (only when it's cold out). (we only use the parking brake when on inclines).
Only in the wintertime[1] ), I have to put my left foot UNDER the mechanical parking brake pedal and "lift up" the pedal when I pull up on the parking brake handle, to "assist" it to return to it's default resting position. No need to wait xxxx seconds.
Apparently , the "return spring" (or whatever is used) to bring the parking brake back to its proper resting place is weak (for ours) and influenced by colder weather. Or it might be the parking brake cable sleeve compresses in cold weather.
[1] We're in south-central Texas, so Winter only lasts 2-3 months, if that long (maybe 1-2). But the fact is, the delayed release ONLY (for us) happens when it's cold.
Last edited by calder-cay; Nov 14, 2024 at 04:37 PM.
I have the exact same problem on my 2014 GLK 220 CDI. I have to pull the handle so hard I'm afraid to snap the wire (which I imagine will leave me with a permanently eganged P-brake). So far it has always eventually released. But I'm afraid I'll have to dismantle and have a look at brakes and wire. And most likely replace them.
Before doing that I'd really appreciate some advice on how to search for faults in the best order.
And some basic questions:
1. Is the parking brake operating on both rear wheels or just one of them?
2. Is it a drum type of brake inside the disk hub? Or is it locking the rear brake disc(s)?
3. Any particular special tools needed to dismount it?
4. Is there any software / computer stuff involved?
5. Other things I need to be aware of?
6. And BTW - if I should start with WD-40, what are the points of access to the brake wire?
7, If someone could point me to a site with an exploded view of the parking brake system, it could surely help.
How does everything look under the car back there? All mine was severly rusted so alot of work, replacement was needed.
Can always try removing the wheels then squirting some lubricating oil on the parking brake pad springs and the spreader. jack up the entire rear so you can spin the rotors with the wheels off, try and align the wheel bolt holes so you can spray the springs. When I worked on mine the spreader was so rusted it wouldnt move properly, had to replace.
The spreaders will be on the opposite side of the calipers on each wheel.
I have to pull the handle so hard I'm afraid to snap the wire
The handle doesn't connect to the wire. It releases the pedal. If that is really the issue, try pressing lightly on the pedal while you pull the handle. This should take some of the load off the release mechanism.
If that doesn't help, see if you can lift the pedal up with your toe while pulling the handle. If so, that means the cables are not returning.
So today I made a closer study of the process and here's what's happening.
1. Engaging parking brake is no problem. I'd say the travel distance of the pedal is rather short and a bit stiff.
2.Releasing the parking brake with the handle actually works. But it's not a snappy release / return of the pedal. But rather a 3 - 5 sec slow motion return travel while holding the release handle pulled out. I can speed it up by putting my foot under the pedal and pulling it out. When it's released the P-lamp goes out.
I tried exercising the pedal some 20 - 30 times. But noticed no difference. Guess I'll just leave it at that for now.
I had the same problem with mine when I first bought it. Have a look under the dash and find where the steel cable goes into the cable sleeve. Spray WD40 or equivalent and work the brake several times.
2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
Yea, this "parking brake" issue shows up out here every now and then.
We only experience this issue, consistently, during the winter months. That means we have this problem for about a month, or maybe two. That's cause we're in the south and east of Texas - no real Winter. But it is caused by the coldness.
We use the typical solution ... pull on the Release lever by hand, then pull the pedal back into place with a foot underneath.
Personally, I'd never use WD40 for cable lubrication ... I use (Blaster) Dry Lube. With 40+ years experience with motorcycle ownership, WD has a *negative* result on cable lubrication 👍
Last edited by calder-cay; May 16, 2025 at 04:19 PM.
It is likely just stiff from lack of use. I doubt that the parking on my GLK250 was ever used prior to me buying it. It took about three days of steady use to get it to function correctly. Use whatever lubricant you are comfortable with.
... Personally, I'd never use WD40 for cable lubrication ... I use (Blaster) Dry Lube. With 40+ years experience with motorcycle ownership, WD has a *negative* result on cable lubrication 👍
It's best at what it was originally formulated for - water displacement - even if you don't own rockets. At other things, like cable lubrication, it's usually just a convenient compromise. After all, who doesn't love a "Do-it-All" in one can?
It is likely just stiff from lack of use. I doubt that the parking on my GLK250 was ever used prior to me buying it...
Valid point. I know and see a lot of folks, in my home country of the U.S., that simply never use the parking brake/hand brake/emergency brake. I really don't see that lack of use, so much, elsewhere. It's strange.
The saying use it or lose it comes to mind.
Having said that, my parking brake pedal return is now "lazy" even though I've always used the parking brake since buying my GLK in 2013. Need to rectify that one of these days...
I had the same problem with mine when I first bought it. Have a look under the dash and find where the steel cable goes into the cable sleeve. Spray WD40 or equivalent and work the brake several times.
2006 Alfa Romeo Brera, 2010 GLK350, 2018 BMW 640i GT, 1997 Subaru SVX, 2012 Moto Guzzi Norge GT8V
I just replaced all the guts including shoes and both rear cables. It works perfectly now. You can actually stop the car with it and modulate the amount of braking with the pedal and release handle. It pops back fully when released with no need to lift it with your foot for that inch or so to turn the light off.
It's really nice to have it fully functional especially on boat ramps. I had visions of the GLK slowly sinking below the waves.
Last edited by Silver Shadow; May 17, 2025 at 06:37 AM.
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Parking Brake
