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I have a 2019 GLS 450 (90k), it's been at the dealer for nearly a month now because it automatically shifts to N moving from a P to either D or R. Initially, they charged me $800 for a new battery but that didn't resolve the issue. Now they are saying I might need a new transmission. I've been reading similar issues and most are telling me that it's a result of a fault TCM (I have codes). Has anyone experienced this before?
So they came back saying they think the valve body needs to be replaced. It's a pretty expensive repair then let's the TCM. It's a 2017 GLS. What would you guys do?
I don't understand what you're describing as the problem. Do you mean you can't shift into D or R, and all you get is neutral?
Either way, if they say the valve body will fix it (make sure you get them to say that!), and it's on your dime to pay for it, then, if it doesn't, it should be on them to make good.
After the car has warmed up and you've already driven it. Let's say your at the gas station and you have the car in park after you've completed pumping gas and ready to pull out you switch to D and as soon as you hit the gas the car switches to N. This happens in comfort mode. If switch to Sports mode or Manual if I shift from P to D1 it works fine. Same thing happens when going from D to R. It's intermittent it doesn't always happen.
The one time the check engine light came on the code was P0700.
They called and left a VM saying, the replacement of the valve body and transmission fluid for $5000.
In the past, they have quoted the transmission fluid change for $1300.
I'm not really confident in their techs because over a month and a new battery later they still don't know exactly what's wrong. But if I do fluid change and this doesn't resolve it, does a valve body replacement require another fluid change? I'd be paying twice then.
If the valve body needs changing, this is because they have found metal debris?
Find a good, independent shop. The fluid change shouldn't be anywhere near that much.
If they change the fluid in concert with the valve body it shouldn't be much more than the cost of the fluid. The fluid is coming out to get at the valve body. All they need to do extra is drain the torque converter and change the filter (again).
Find a good, independent shop. The fluid change shouldn't be anywhere near that much.
If they change the fluid in concert with the valve body it shouldn't be much more than the cost of the fluid. The fluid is coming out to get at the valve body. All they need to do extra is drain the torque converter and change the filter (again).
Should I ask for a just a fluid and filter change or the full service?
This is what the dealership emailed me today, "We followed a guided test on the SDS scan tool that led to a problem with the valve body of the transmission, in other words the central command unit of the transmission. It controls when the transmission is supposed to shift and there is an internal fault. Replacing it would include a transmission oil change as well..." $5200
I got it down from $5500 to 4000 to replace the valve body + transmission is that a good price?
I can't say if it's a good price, but it's a lot better than $5500. Interesting, though, that they were able to knock that much off in the first place...
Originally Posted by S Naqvi
Should I ask for a just a fluid and filter change or the full service?
Fluid and filter, done correctly, is the full service. I don't think it should cost you more than $5-600 at the most, from an independent, and it may save you the valve body job. Having the dealer do it might be a waste, since they probably want to sell you the valve body job...
This is what the dealership emailed me today, "We followed a guided test on the SDS scan tool that led to a problem with the valve body of the transmission, in other words the central command unit of the transmission. It controls when the transmission is supposed to shift and there is an internal fault. Replacing it would include a transmission oil change as well..." $5200
It's rarely the valve body
often the plate
you can get a new one but just getting a used one from ebay virginized will do the job
plate would cost you $350
programming we do
10yo child could replace the plate
Last edited by BenzNinja; May 5, 2024 at 05:18 PM.
I just had to replace the battery under the drivers seat and the gear shift module because my GLS would get stuck in park. 2018 GLS550 with 48,500 miles.
I have a 2019 GLS 450 (90k), it's been at the dealer for nearly a month now because it automatically shifts to N moving from a P to either D or R. Initially, they charged me $800 for a new battery but that didn't resolve the issue. Now they are saying I might need a new transmission. I've been reading similar issues and most are telling me that it's a result of a fault TCM (I have codes). Has anyone experienced this before?
Thanks!
my 2018 GLS550 (63k) has started doing this. I've got CEL codes: P073E (Unable to engage reverse), and P07B7 (Transmission park position sensor/switch "A" circuit intermittent/erratic). After parking overnight, the CEL was gone. I brought the car to the dealer and an independent shop, who both could not replicate the issue.
a few drives later, it happened again. I noticed that it occurs when auto start/stop feature stops the engine at a stop. at that time, the car (in comfort mode) goes from D2, to N, and it does not allow me to switch back to D gear... unless i change into Sport Mode, then is changes to D3, and then only D3-D5 gears are only available.
my 2018 GLS550 (63k) has started doing this. I've got CEL codes: P073E (Unable to engage reverse), and P07B7 (Transmission park position sensor/switch "A" circuit intermittent/erratic). After parking overnight, the CEL was gone. I brought the car to the dealer and an independent shop, who both could not replicate the issue.
a few drives later, it happened again. I noticed that it occurs when auto start/stop feature stops the engine at a stop. at that time, the car (in comfort mode) goes from D2, to N, and it does not allow me to switch back to D gear... unless i change into Sport Mode, then is changes to D3, and then only D3-D5 gears are only available.
If it's start stop doing that verify your aux battery replace it if old then try again
After the car has warmed up and you've already driven it. Let's say your at the gas station and you have the car in park after you've completed pumping gas and ready to pull out you switch to D and as soon as you hit the gas the car switches to N. This happens in comfort mode. If switch to Sports mode or Manual if I shift from P to D1 it works fine. Same thing happens when going from D to R. It's intermittent it doesn't always happen.
The one time the check engine light came on the code was P0700.
I think this may have happened to my 2019 GLS 450 (about 45k miles) a few times. For me when I go to Park (after driving it for awhile like you mentioned) and then I go back to drive (D1) it shows D1 on the dashboard but when this happens to me it doesn’t go forward as it should, it would be in neutral. I would push on the gas and the rpms rev up but the car doesn’t move forward as it should while on D1 on the dashboard. Is this the same thing that happened to you? I didn’t quite understand when you said it went back to neutral. Did it show that it switched back to neutral on the dashboard after putting it on D1? Or did the car behave like neutral while it showed D1 on the dashboard like how my car did? Thank you for your help.
After the car has warmed up and you've already driven it. Let's say your at the gas station and you have the car in park after you've completed pumping gas and ready to pull out you switch to D and as soon as you hit the gas the car switches to N. This happens in comfort mode. If switch to Sports mode or Manual if I shift from P to D1 it works fine. Same thing happens when going from D to R. It's intermittent it doesn't always happen.
The one time the check engine light came on the code was P0700.
A transmission flush has been done on mine and it has been serviced regularly as it’s supposed to be.
I think this may have happened to my 2019 GLS 450 (about 45k miles) a few times. For me when I go to Park (after driving it for awhile like you mentioned) and then I go back to drive (D1) it shows D1 on the dashboard but when this happens to me it doesn’t go forward as it should, it would be in neutral. I would push on the gas and the rpms rev up but the car doesn’t move forward as it should while on D1 on the dashboard. Is this the same thing that happened to you? I didn’t quite understand when you said it went back to neutral. Did it show that it switched back to neutral on the dashboard after putting it on D1? Or did the car behave like neutral while it showed D1 on the dashboard like how my car did? Thank you for your help.
When I wrote this, I just had bought this car. It was new to us. We didn’t realize that the car was heavy and it just needed more gas to move since it’s a heavier car. Sorry for the confusion.
C200 Mercedes - Goes Back to N when put in D in Comfort mode
Originally Posted by kaos1
my 2018 GLS550 (63k) has started doing this. I've got CEL codes: P073E (Unable to engage reverse), and P07B7 (Transmission park position sensor/switch "A" circuit intermittent/erratic). After parking overnight, the CEL was gone. I brought the car to the dealer and an independent shop, who both could not replicate the issue.
a few drives later, it happened again. I noticed that it occurs when auto start/stop feature stops the engine at a stop. at that time, the car (in comfort mode) goes from D2, to N, and it does not allow me to switch back to D gear... unless i change into Sport Mode, then is changes to D3, and then only D3-D5 gears are only available.
Hello S Naqvi,
I am facing the same issue, can you please advise, which solution worked for you.
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