2000 Ml320 Rims?
09-01-2006, 10:08 PM
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2000 ML320
2000 Ml320 Rims?
I am looking for rims for my ML320. I want black 20's. BUT, I need advice on which ones to get and I wanna make sure that they fit correctly and don't crack. I've never purchased rims before and am a female. Please give me some good advice on how to purchase and the type. Thanks
09-02-2006, 06:43 AM
#2
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Ahhhh....wheels, everyone's favorite add-on.
I have an 00 ML320 with the factory 16s and too have been searching for some nice rims - but 18s.
First off, if you are not familiar with wheel fitments, I suggest using websites like tirerack.com or discounttiredirect.com. These are plug and play to find the right size wheel.
I would point out that for the ML, wheel selection is limited. I contacted a vendor and he told me the reason is that the ML is built to carry a heavy load, it is a truck, and therefore requires higher load rating wheels, just like it requires higher load ratings for tires.
Having said that, there are many other wheels that will fit the ML chassis, though maybe not meeting the manufacturer's recommended load rating. Not really a problem if you don't tow or load up your ML. For example, most wheels designed to fit on S and E class should work on the ML.
Some technical information about wheels you should know about when shopping for wheels:
Bolt pattern - spacing between each of the lug bolts (MB uses bolts not nuts like most other cars). 5 X 112mm
Lug bolt - the ML uses 14mm diameter shaft lug bolts. Smaller Mercedes models use 12mm. You need to be sure the holes in the wheel are cut to use this size lug bolt.
Wheel width - for the ML320, it is 8 inches wide. The ML430 uses a 17 by 8.5inch wide wheel.
Wheel offset - This determines how far the wheel sticks out or sits in from the fenders. It is the most important measurement to ensure the front wheels do not rub any part of the chassis when turning left of right and the rear wheels do not rub any part of the fenders when loaded down in the back.
The factory 16 X 8 inch wheel has a negative 62mm offset. This means that if you cut the wheel right down the middle, where one half now is the outside, and the other half is the inside, there is 62mm from the middle where you cut it to the surface where the wheel mounts to the hub. The negative offset means this 62mm is measured in the portion that is the outside of the wheel. This makes the wheel sit IN to the wheel wells. Confusing huh? Just remember, the lower this number is from the factory number, like 50mm, or 30mm, the more the entire wheel will stick out towards the edges of the fender wells. In fact, when you see those low-riders with the wheels sticking way past the fender wells, these wheels most likely have either 0 offset or POSITIVE offset.
The offset for the factory 17s and 18s that come on the AMG ML55 have LESS negative offset than the 16s and do sit out more, this means youdon't have to exactly match this number when selecting wheels as even the mfr has used different offsets for the same chassis.
Remember that wheel width has to be figured into the equation to determine the total clearance from the fender well.
E.g. - Take the factory 8 inches, divide by 2 (cutting the wheel in half) = 4 inches (102mm), with an offset of negative 62mm, the outer edge of this wheel sits out 40mm from the hub (where the wheel mounts to).
Lets say you are interested in a 20 X 9.5 inch wheel with 50mm offset, take 9.5 divide by 2 = 4.75 inches (120.65mm), with an offset of negative 50mm, the outer edge of this wheel sits out 70.65mm from the hub.
So compared to the factory 16 inch wheel, this wheel would stick out 30.65mm, or roughly 1 & 1/4 inch more, which should put it right outside the fender wells, quite an aggressive look.
To keep the wheels from sticking out beyond the fender wells, find a wheel with more negative offset, or find a narrower wheel with the similar offset.
You go girl!
I have an 00 ML320 with the factory 16s and too have been searching for some nice rims - but 18s.
First off, if you are not familiar with wheel fitments, I suggest using websites like tirerack.com or discounttiredirect.com. These are plug and play to find the right size wheel.
I would point out that for the ML, wheel selection is limited. I contacted a vendor and he told me the reason is that the ML is built to carry a heavy load, it is a truck, and therefore requires higher load rating wheels, just like it requires higher load ratings for tires.
Having said that, there are many other wheels that will fit the ML chassis, though maybe not meeting the manufacturer's recommended load rating. Not really a problem if you don't tow or load up your ML. For example, most wheels designed to fit on S and E class should work on the ML.
Some technical information about wheels you should know about when shopping for wheels:
Bolt pattern - spacing between each of the lug bolts (MB uses bolts not nuts like most other cars). 5 X 112mm
Lug bolt - the ML uses 14mm diameter shaft lug bolts. Smaller Mercedes models use 12mm. You need to be sure the holes in the wheel are cut to use this size lug bolt.
Wheel width - for the ML320, it is 8 inches wide. The ML430 uses a 17 by 8.5inch wide wheel.
Wheel offset - This determines how far the wheel sticks out or sits in from the fenders. It is the most important measurement to ensure the front wheels do not rub any part of the chassis when turning left of right and the rear wheels do not rub any part of the fenders when loaded down in the back.
The factory 16 X 8 inch wheel has a negative 62mm offset. This means that if you cut the wheel right down the middle, where one half now is the outside, and the other half is the inside, there is 62mm from the middle where you cut it to the surface where the wheel mounts to the hub. The negative offset means this 62mm is measured in the portion that is the outside of the wheel. This makes the wheel sit IN to the wheel wells. Confusing huh? Just remember, the lower this number is from the factory number, like 50mm, or 30mm, the more the entire wheel will stick out towards the edges of the fender wells. In fact, when you see those low-riders with the wheels sticking way past the fender wells, these wheels most likely have either 0 offset or POSITIVE offset.
The offset for the factory 17s and 18s that come on the AMG ML55 have LESS negative offset than the 16s and do sit out more, this means youdon't have to exactly match this number when selecting wheels as even the mfr has used different offsets for the same chassis.
Remember that wheel width has to be figured into the equation to determine the total clearance from the fender well.
E.g. - Take the factory 8 inches, divide by 2 (cutting the wheel in half) = 4 inches (102mm), with an offset of negative 62mm, the outer edge of this wheel sits out 40mm from the hub (where the wheel mounts to).
Lets say you are interested in a 20 X 9.5 inch wheel with 50mm offset, take 9.5 divide by 2 = 4.75 inches (120.65mm), with an offset of negative 50mm, the outer edge of this wheel sits out 70.65mm from the hub.
So compared to the factory 16 inch wheel, this wheel would stick out 30.65mm, or roughly 1 & 1/4 inch more, which should put it right outside the fender wells, quite an aggressive look.
To keep the wheels from sticking out beyond the fender wells, find a wheel with more negative offset, or find a narrower wheel with the similar offset.
You go girl!
09-02-2006, 04:59 PM
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BMW FTW
Originally Posted by mj50
when i'm ready for rims, i'm thinking of gettin' 20" amg iv style or brabus mono vi style rims...
