help: ml320. stalls...no start.... thousands replaced
#1
help: ml320. stalls...no start.... thousands replaced
i have a 98 ml320. heres the situation. car starts fine....runs for about 10 minute.... as i idle. it stallls....wont start again. i have to wait about 30 minute for it to cool down a bit. then it starts again,
so far.
dealer replaced.
fuel pump, maf sensor, starter relay, ignition switch
what have i found out.
check engine light comes on,
has 2 code.
fuel trim malfunction bank 1
fuel trim malfunction bank 2
looked at long term fuel trim. + 20%
i was told the fuel filter could cause it also.
but my biggest question is, how come everytime i wait for 30 minutes, it would start again,.
btw, i thk its fuel problem..
when it wont start, if i spray starter fluid in the intake it would want to start, until i stop spraying it,
i havent been able to check fuel pressure or injector yet. any helkp would be appreciated. thanks you very much,
so far, i have spent over $2000
btw. i have notice that it has gotten worse and worse.
and it been happening since march
so far.
dealer replaced.
fuel pump, maf sensor, starter relay, ignition switch
what have i found out.
check engine light comes on,
has 2 code.
fuel trim malfunction bank 1
fuel trim malfunction bank 2
looked at long term fuel trim. + 20%
i was told the fuel filter could cause it also.
but my biggest question is, how come everytime i wait for 30 minutes, it would start again,.
btw, i thk its fuel problem..
when it wont start, if i spray starter fluid in the intake it would want to start, until i stop spraying it,
i havent been able to check fuel pressure or injector yet. any helkp would be appreciated. thanks you very much,
so far, i have spent over $2000
btw. i have notice that it has gotten worse and worse.
and it been happening since march
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: In A Van Down By The River
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2014 RX 350 F Sport, 2007 Scion tC, 2000 ML 430 Money Pit Finally Gone! Oh Happy Day!
i have a 98 ml320. heres the situation. car starts fine....runs for about 10 minute.... as i idle. it stallls....wont start again. i have to wait about 30 minute for it to cool down a bit. then it starts again,
so far.
dealer replaced.
fuel pump, maf sensor, starter relay, ignition switch
what have i found out.
check engine light comes on,
has 2 code.
fuel trim malfunction bank 1
fuel trim malfunction bank 2
looked at long term fuel trim. + 20%
i was told the fuel filter could cause it also.
but my biggest question is, how come everytime i wait for 30 minutes, it would start again,.
btw, i thk its fuel problem..
when it wont start, if i spray starter fluid in the intake it would want to start, until i stop spraying it,
i havent been able to check fuel pressure or injector yet. any helkp would be appreciated. thanks you very much,
so far, i have spent over $2000
btw. i have notice that it has gotten worse and worse.
and it been happening since march
so far.
dealer replaced.
fuel pump, maf sensor, starter relay, ignition switch
what have i found out.
check engine light comes on,
has 2 code.
fuel trim malfunction bank 1
fuel trim malfunction bank 2
looked at long term fuel trim. + 20%
i was told the fuel filter could cause it also.
but my biggest question is, how come everytime i wait for 30 minutes, it would start again,.
btw, i thk its fuel problem..
when it wont start, if i spray starter fluid in the intake it would want to start, until i stop spraying it,
i havent been able to check fuel pressure or injector yet. any helkp would be appreciated. thanks you very much,
so far, i have spent over $2000
btw. i have notice that it has gotten worse and worse.
and it been happening since march
#5
Almost a Member!
The two common failures which cause these symptoms are CPS and fuel filter, I had a similar saga with my wife's A160 and it turned out to be the fuel filter which has a pressure switch on it that switches off the fuel pump when there is sufficient pressure or before there is sufficient pressure if it is faulty.
Given that the dealer will throw parts at it at great expense I suggest you change the CPS yourself, it is neither expensive nor hard to change and. if you keep the vehicle a few years, you will most likely need to replace it sometime anyway.
If a new CPS does not fix it then it is most likely to be the fuel filter which is less easy to change but, depending on how able you are, can be done. Searching on the forums and http://www.whnet.com/4x4/ will help you.
In my wife's A160 case the car failed to start for me so I let them tow it under the 'get you going' warranty. I told the dealer it was fuel related but, with their training and computers, they knew better, they replaced the CPS which did not fix it so they replaced the MAF which is integrated with the ECU in the A Class and is very expensive, that didn't fix it so they replaced the fuel filter and wanted to charge me £1000!!! I explained politely that I was not going to pay for all the faulty bits and labour at £95 per hour, particularly as changing a MAF (which is non-returnable because it is part of the ECU which is dedicated to the specific VIN) without first checking fuel flow amounts to stupidity. They agreed an almost reasonable reduction in price and I will go there again as the local dealer is too bone-headed to listen to customers and charges £105 per hour.
Given that the dealer will throw parts at it at great expense I suggest you change the CPS yourself, it is neither expensive nor hard to change and. if you keep the vehicle a few years, you will most likely need to replace it sometime anyway.
If a new CPS does not fix it then it is most likely to be the fuel filter which is less easy to change but, depending on how able you are, can be done. Searching on the forums and http://www.whnet.com/4x4/ will help you.
In my wife's A160 case the car failed to start for me so I let them tow it under the 'get you going' warranty. I told the dealer it was fuel related but, with their training and computers, they knew better, they replaced the CPS which did not fix it so they replaced the MAF which is integrated with the ECU in the A Class and is very expensive, that didn't fix it so they replaced the fuel filter and wanted to charge me £1000!!! I explained politely that I was not going to pay for all the faulty bits and labour at £95 per hour, particularly as changing a MAF (which is non-returnable because it is part of the ECU which is dedicated to the specific VIN) without first checking fuel flow amounts to stupidity. They agreed an almost reasonable reduction in price and I will go there again as the local dealer is too bone-headed to listen to customers and charges £105 per hour.
#6
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Western Michigan
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ml320
Crankshaft Position Sensor
$75 10 minute do it yourself installation.
Been there done it. Really really sorry to hear they got you for $2000.
My last time to the Dealer the est was $2000..... I did it myself for
$400.
they wanted to replace the ERG and new rear shocks. I cleaned out the EGR tube $0.00 and bought shocks on ebay for $400.
Hey, Please let us know what resolved the problem. Thanks.
Been there done it. Really really sorry to hear they got you for $2000.
My last time to the Dealer the est was $2000..... I did it myself for
$400.
they wanted to replace the ERG and new rear shocks. I cleaned out the EGR tube $0.00 and bought shocks on ebay for $400.
Hey, Please let us know what resolved the problem. Thanks.
Last edited by sdanville; 11-30-2006 at 05:44 PM. Reason: add