M-Class (W163) Produced 1998-2005: ML 230, ML 320, ML 350, ML 400 CDI, ML 430, ML 500, ML 270 CDI

Removing torshion Bar to repair cats

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Old Mar 17, 2007 | 04:24 AM
  #1  
dbrace's Avatar
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Removing torshion Bar to repair cats

I have a 2000 ML320
I need to repair my catulitic converter as they have cracks.
I managed to get the right one out with out removing the torshion bar but the left on will need to come out.
Any hints on getting this out ?
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 01:11 AM
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From: Dallas, TX
2008 E63 wagon (1 of 62)
Originally Posted by dbrace
I have a 2000 ML320
I need to repair my catulitic converter as they have cracks.
I managed to get the right one out with out removing the torshion bar but the left on will need to come out.
Any hints on getting this out ?
you do realize that there is a recall out there for this problem and the dealer will take care of it unless you are over the 100k mile mark.

As for removing the torsion bar, just follow these instructions. First, put the vehicle up on jackstands and make sure it is secure. Follow the torsion bar to the rear mounting point. From there you see a wide flat surface with a smaller hole in the middle. Stick a screwdriver in the hole and mark where stops on the screwdriver with a marker or something similar for when you put it all back together. (If you don't do this, your ride height and alignment can be all out of specs). Next get a 19mm socket and ratchet and start loosening the 19mm bolt you see in the middle of the plate above another larger access hole. This will take you a long time and will be very tough. Once you remove the bolt, go to the front of the torsion bar and you will see the 6-sided sleeve around the torsion bar and where it mounts into the subframe. Take a marker again or some sort of scribe to make a mark on the sleeve and on the subframe so you can properly line them back up during reassembly. Take a small prybar or sturdy screwdriver and pry it back from inside the subframe where it would slide back over the torsion bar itself. After that, you will have a few harder to access fasteners on top of the frame holding a guide bracket for the torsion bar that will need to come out if you want to remove it fully. While you are in there, check the white torsion bar bushing at the rear of the torsion bar where it rides in the plate/frame section. If it is cracked, replace it.

Getting it back together is just as simple, just remember to line up all the marks and use the screwdriver you marked earlier to get the vehicle back to the proper ride height before removing it from the jack stands and back onto the ground.
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Old Mar 24, 2007 | 01:50 AM
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Thanks for the reply.

I have contacted the dealer and they have advised me there is no recall
in place in AUstralia. ? I have also emailed Mercedes regarding this.

Just to confirm the procedure.

Once you have undone the 19mm bolt at the back,with vehicle on stands,
you can pry the sleeve out of the subframe and back over the torshion bar?

So there are no bolts to undo at the front?

Thank you again for your help and I will do this over the next few days.
Ill let you know how it goes.

Also is there an international website fo MB on recalls?


DB
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Old Mar 26, 2007 | 09:56 AM
  #4  
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Today I removed the left torshion bar and the catalitic converter.Prety straight forward once you know how.
I will get the cat welded tommorow, and get it back
in and on the road by Wednesday. Thanks for
your help.

I am working through the list of things to watch
out on the ML and I have had most.

Is there a prodution number or date that they finnaly
go every thing right.

I also have an 82 550SL thats more reliable than my ML?
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Old Mar 27, 2007 | 09:14 AM
  #5  
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Ok got the catalitic converter welded and put it back in
tonight. It all welt to plan and only took 1 and a half hours,
The ML sounds much better without the rumble form 'the
leaking cat.

Thanks your help.
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