I posted before how I got a 3” plus lowering and how much I can’t drive like this. The back feels like rock and to mach the fronts I have to undo the torsion bars to the point of no rebound just bottom up every chance. I have used 2 top quality products both used by MB for the longest times and I manage to make my truck worst than before with dead shocks and broken springs. For all of you out there is a way to solve this. All of you looking for a drop to the ground (3” or more) or for a normal 1.5” with a nice improvement over stock read on, this could be the answer.
Both Eibach and H&R have different listings when it comes to the actual lowering values. Since most of the people using H&R springs are complaining about the ride quality, I start digging out any info and help I can find. First I will start with the fact that the original springs are progressive and the b/s shocks made by KYB are softer than soft. Now the only available replacements are a non available Koni, the newer oem made by Sachs, one aftermarket Monroe and the too hard no comfort HD Bilsteins. I have the proof that no sport version of the Bilsteins are or will be available to this part of the world and if one will ask they should not be used with lowering springs. Back to the springs, they all state that will lower 1.25” and 1.4” while their TUV papers are clear about a lowering of 40 to 50 mm witch is as far as I now 40mm = 1.57” and 50mm = 2”. Also TUV papers for the H&R’s will show that “customer shocks can be use” if all the requirements are available : no bottom adjustable spring support, the presence of rubber stops…..which is actually nothing more than use your oem shocks and lower your truck, NO PROBLEM. Also the same paper shows that the spring is 340mm uncompressed and is a linear design. We all know that the newer revised shocks/springs are revalved and provide a nicer ride. Why very simple: Sachs makes quality shocks since the beginning of the days and the new units are totally different then original ones cause the spring now is liniar not progressive as the original was. Sow far so good but why we have problems with the lowering trucks why the rear becomes hard and bouncy and why people they throw all that into the shocks? I read all the posts about this and most of the complaining people will say use them in the front and keep oem shocks in the back and you will be happy. Why all this and for what? I took my truck apart more than 20 times and I talked to every person I could find with some experience and knowledge of the ML. I made my shocks fully adjustable so I can raise the back every .25” to a raise of 6” in total the only bad part I still have to take them out to do that. Finally I get a call from people that were heavily involved into racing the MLs. The story about my 3” drop is normal sort off since we leave in these dark age of European left over and giving the lower bid a chance to supply any manufacture ends up in a nightmare. To make this clear for everybody: when you use a different shock than oem please don’t mix and mach parts. From the old shock the only parts needed are the tops not the bottom spring plate as sow many of you did. The two parts are sitting exactly the same since Bilstein is TUV approved and is a direct replacement. Also use the bump stops provided with it. Now when it comes to springs go to the german web site of H&R and see that MLs they got a newer version of # 29497 . That is the damn problem; TUV papers are the ones that solved the mystery in my case. I have a 2000 ML55 and my original springs were progressive in design and both broken at the last bottom coil. When I installed the H&R’s I realize that I need no spring compressor to put them on, so the spring was way shorter. But hey “lowering springs right? Wrong. The part that I suppose to have provided was the old flat top spring which is only 40 mm longer and a different design than the new one. Talking to H&R in US I have mention a million times the part number on the spring and to their knowledge was right #29497 (R) is the one to use. NO. I have a newer part witch is linear design, 40mm shorter and no one could see that is just wrong. That is how I got my more than 3” lowering and the back is just stiff like rock. I like progressive springs, if you drive by yourself they are really comfy, that is the main reason for the last 20 years I used only H&R. Don’t take me wrong I never said any bad thinks about Eibach, there are just not my pot of coffee. So now I will see if I can find my 29497 – 2 and let you now.

 

I apologize, while it seems like you have a descent amount of experience... I get a head ache reading that massive paragraph...

I have yet to install my Bilstein HDs and H&R lowering springs as I need to remove most of my stereo system to do the install but from what it sounds like... you are saying NO GO?

From what you are saying is that the flat springs are going to be WAY too low and not the 1.5" drop they claimed it would be but closer to 3"

Ill get those measurements for you today, but do you have any pictures of the work you have done on the suspension to help explain what you are talking about?

 

i don't want to give you a ride just go to the H&R german site find your springs and read the TUV (all auto parts to be sold there must have that) info. The lowering is 2" min. i will keep you posted.

 

Problem solved. I still need stock measurements so I can post the finals. The only way I can measure for now is to keep min. 17.75" to 18" from the middle of the wheel (centre of the hub) to the fender and keep the front 1" lower than the back. My measurements so far: front 30", rear 31-31.25" . Visually looks leveled and just a bit lower than a stock 55. I will post pictures soon right now we are waiting for one more snow storm.

 

Ill get those measurements for you... Ill try and do them tonight as Im waiting for some stuff to finish drying

 

from the center of the AMG wheel to the fender flayer is 18" on the rear wheels...

the front is 17.25" to the center of the amg wheel

 

please go to H&R German site and read those specs as to what you have posted your front is way low as it is. You posted 17.25" = 438mm and they say 455mm is the lowest you can go. You aree .75" lower before lowering go good luck.BTW why you have to remove your stereo ? All the install is done front out side of the truck. I will take you step by step to do it if you want.

 

I dont speak German... is the German H&R site in english?

And dont you need to grab the top of the shock towers from inside the rear hatch area? I have a sub enclosure on the right side of my ML... I cant get at the top of the shock tower unless I remove my fiberglassed enclosure... but if you say I can do the install from the outside of the car then by all means give me a how to...

 

I posted the file so you can read about all that.
Let’s start from the beginning. Raise the back, use floor jacks I will say min 3” from the tires to the ground. Remove both wheels than have a beer. Now you have to remove the wheel housing lining but I have done it with that in place (6 or 7 10mm plastic nuts, than pull from inside and play with it a bit). Look at the shock and to the left and the right you have to take out first the plastic cap (a little screwdriver will help). Now have I mentioned if you have bid hands pay a guy to do it? You have to use a 13mm ratcheting wrench like a GearWrench Ratcheting Combination Wrench (that’s what I use). Make shore is not a flexible one. After you manage to take all 3 out, one in the front as towards you and two in the back toward opposite side (as a triangle).13mm will help you to remove the link bar between stabilizer bar (sway bar) and lower control arm. Use a 21mm socket and a 21 wrench (inside the cutout is a nut) remove the bolts between the lower control arm and the sub frame. Now 18 mm socket will remove the lower strut assemble nut in the middle of the lower control arm. Lower the control arm from inside so will hang on the lower ball joint .Remove the suspension strut and using a spring compressor remove the spring (nut on the top is 17mm and watch the order of the bushings). Install your new spring over the shock; use the top parts from the old one. Put all back in the reverse order. Torque specs are: link rod to torsion bar 28 NM, lower control arm to the sub frame 135 NM, strut top nuts to the body 20 NM, lower strut nut to control arm 85 NM. I will post the WIS files also. Let me know if you need more info. They are Office Document Imaging files if any of you can convert them will be great but for now that is the only way for me. I have to make them a jpg or other so i can post them and i don't know how ???

 

THATS AWESOME... SWEEEEEET... I think I would prefer to take out the wheel well lining over the rear panel... and I am the guy you pay to do it...

I know that there are two access panels built into the panels that allow you to grab the three bolts from the top of the shock but I have a sub enclosure built over one of those access panels so its not possible to access them... Ill try your way tomorrow...

AND with new bilstien HD shocks in the front... my new height is 19.5" from center of wheel to fender flayer... I didnt have time to do the rears today, so only the fronts

 

After you will drive your truck the front height should be close to the original. 19.5 is what you get when you raise and lower the vehicle without driving. Once again the height is given by the torsion bars not by the shocks. Also there is no access to the top of the rear shocks from inside. The body is completely sealed and no access holes other the fuel pump is provided. Let me know how the back goes.

 

I still don't understand why anyone would want to lower an ML as to do so negates any off-roading ability. Might as well remove the transfer case too! When lowered they look more like a van.

In any case, toclk43 is correct. Height is governed by torsion bars and springs. The body has been completely sealed to maintain the ML's low NVH levels, and to maintain structural integrity even when there is body damage or rust. The suspension is tugged into the separate ladder chassis, so to gain access for spring/shock replacement you'll need to hoist the entire car.

 

I just hope I made my self clear with all this. I had no intension of lowering, I only want to replace broken springs and looks like Mercedes could not make the manufacturers sell the spring individually. I looked into OEM replacement but I want to keep the truck for a while (the 164 is too much a x series = a lifted car with bigger tires). Since all oem they will break or at least the earlier ones did, so I can’t take that chance. Having a mechanical background I can see what lowering the ML will cause in the long term. I don’t want to start here but just keep in mind that most of the safety features are based on the level and weight distribution. Brakes and stability controls are very well known to act different if you change the weight between the axels. Auto makers still manage all this thru brake proportioning valve and rotational info (abs wheel sensor will read the difference between wheels and act accordingly). Most of the problems with these trucks can be avoided if the repairs are done the right way and the trucks are left the way there are made. All of you will take the dealers for the final answer while they are not a repair facility, they are a REPLACE shop (they will read the vehicle computers and if they don’t find it they will start replacing components until problem solved) This discussion deserves a new thread but for now enjoy your truck and remember if you want a different look or a different feel just get a different vehicle. The final words.. when you lower too much you will change the angle on the suspension components, the drive shafts, and they will wear way faster and your truck will act funny. Most of the components are VIN specific for the fact that physical dimensions are identical while the parts are still totally different. Most of the problems on these forums are based on the wrong repairs and the fact that people still believe that “it will never happened to me” theory. All of the sensors and info that computers run based on, are calibrated for a fix back and front distribution (weight) and changing that in the wrong way will cause future problems.The MLs are not Gs and will never be no matter what but also will never be your low rider. No matter how many plastics, grilles, and chrome pieces one will add to it, it will still be a truck, so use it as one. And while I said enough to get some of you really pissed, who wants seven seats, go and get yourself a mini van. Sorry I have no intension to insult anybody, anywhere but just go back to the beginning of all this and when you buy your next car, truck, SUV or your bus ticket be realistic and stop seeing what will look like if you lower it, put 28” wheels and change all lights with led and add all the blink blink to it.

 

you think by lowering the truck we want to make it a low rider? and put 28" wheels on it?

Mohawk... lowering it also increases its drivability as it makes it an entirely different animal ON the road. Im not sure what type of ML you have but as a 55 owner I can assure you that the ML is as FUN to drive as it is capable as an offroader. The tourque it has makes it VERY fun off the line and its ability as a highway cruiser is great

 

Where can I get front shock absorbers for a 2003 ML320...I read about the Blisteins, are there any others? It's for my friend's ML. We just changed the ball joints. He had purchased two shocks from Napa Auto Parts, but they were missing a piece that the original had, and without it, they wouldn't bolt on...We even tried to remove the piece from the original, but it wouldn't come out...I don't know what the piece is called, it's at the bottom of the shock, and the bolt goes through it lol...

I went to napa auto parts for an oil filter for my C230 a few months ago, and they gave me the wrong filter...twice...Their computer tells them what part is for which car...I dunno why, but it's like Napa swears their parts will work, and when you bring the part back to them, they tell you "well it should work" or "gotta go to Mercedes for that"...