Fuel Filter on 2002 ML 320
The 163 and 230 are probably the worst fuel filters to do.
There are special pliers that remove the style of fastener used for the filter connections. I needed them because I had a botched job on my upgraded filter mandated by MB on some 2001's. "Someone" had managed to do the upgrade without using one the factory recommended upgrade lines. It made it nearly impossible to remove the line without destroying a line that cost over $100. Pliers range in price from $55 (mine) to $98 shop around.
You can disable your truck doing this upgrade. If a connector breaks or a line is damaged you won't be able to get something out of the "scrounge box" that will fix the truck. Back online.
General procedure:
lift truck
remove the left rear wheel
remove the wheel well liner
unplug the connector attached to frame (your looking right at it)
loosen hose clamp holding the filter
relieve the pressure in the injection system (or prepare for a gas bath)
you have the upgraded fuel filter/fuel pressure regulator ready to install
take note of the different connectors and locations
use your special pliers to remove the connectors (catch some gas)
install new filter (connectors snap onto filter)
put everything back where you found it
buy clean gas and you should be good for 100,000 miles or so
This job requires some experience to avoid some potentially deadly outcomes. As I said above if you break your connectors the replacements will shock your pocketbook. Deadly outcomes? On fire going down the road. Blow up and burn to death in your garage. An unexpected $250 bill for new feed and return lines if they are damaged.

My first filter must have been changed early in the trucks history. It was mandated by MB that they were to be changed at the first opportunity. The filter I took off had 150,000 miles on it!! It seemed to run 'alright' before the swap but after the filter change there was a slight performance gain and better idle. It's rare to have anything really 'change' after a filter change unless it's really plugged.
Hope this helps.
-lift out carpet
-you'll see access cover (round) behind driver's seat
-remove access cover (round) takes flathead scrwedriver to remove old seal
-make sure you have updated 3 lines (updated lines just allows your fuel guage needle to show completly full)
-don't worry about using special pliers, just get some good dikes and cut the old fuel line. Becareful not to break the white fuel fitting!
-reinstall the new lines in the same way as old
-replace fuel filter
-flatten out the access cover and use good silicone to cover the hole
If you cut the filter fuel line going to the engine, as suggested above, you are screwed.
When just changing the filter it is not necessary to remove the rear seat. The filter change is done from the left rear wheel well.
To satisfy any reservations you may have I suggest checking your VIN number with your dealer to make sure you need/don't need the filter upgrade.
Mike
[EDIT] --------SEE NEXT POST ----------
Last edited by Mike's ML; Feb 12, 2011 at 01:58 PM. Reason: SEE NEXT POST
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The early ML’s built from 1998 to somewhere around March or April of 2001 had the original Fuel Filter PN 163 477 02 01. This was upgraded (for production vehicles and replacment service parts) to a new larger filter after March April 2001 to PN 163 477 05 01. Vehicles built after this time frame have the Larger filter. All these filters had a fuel Pressure regulator built in. Some of the first larger upgrade filters PN 163 477 05 01 had regulators that made a loud screeching noise and a newer upgrade filter PN 163 477 07 01 was put into the supply chain.
163 477 02 01 Short Filter
163 477 05 01 Long Filter (possibly noisy regulator)
163 477 07 01 Long Filter – Current Filter as far as I know.
Mike
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