99' ML320 Transmission?
#1
99' ML320 Transmission?
Hello!
I have a 99' ML320 which has been having some problems. It has 150k on and drove amazing until one night all the gears stopped engaging after warmed up. If I turned the truck off and back on it would be fine for anywhere from a mile to 20+ miles. I parked it and stopped driving it until now (6 months later). I did replace the 13 pin connector which did have fluid around it. I only have this scanner http://www.toolplanet.com/product/EQ...FQVgMgodg3oAeg which will not clear my trouble code for a speed sensor. Is this scanner not good enough to clear the code or do I still have another existing problem such as the conductor plate? The truck will drive maybe a mile now but has a horrible whine. Also if i start it up and shift from D to R it will not move anymore until its cold. I really don't have a ton of money to throw at possibilities, which I know owning a MB's its going to take it.... SO any suggestions? I really just don't want to pay a shop $100 to clear the code and have it be the conductor plate so I would have to pay an additional $100 to clear the codes a second time.
THANK YOU!
I have a 99' ML320 which has been having some problems. It has 150k on and drove amazing until one night all the gears stopped engaging after warmed up. If I turned the truck off and back on it would be fine for anywhere from a mile to 20+ miles. I parked it and stopped driving it until now (6 months later). I did replace the 13 pin connector which did have fluid around it. I only have this scanner http://www.toolplanet.com/product/EQ...FQVgMgodg3oAeg which will not clear my trouble code for a speed sensor. Is this scanner not good enough to clear the code or do I still have another existing problem such as the conductor plate? The truck will drive maybe a mile now but has a horrible whine. Also if i start it up and shift from D to R it will not move anymore until its cold. I really don't have a ton of money to throw at possibilities, which I know owning a MB's its going to take it.... SO any suggestions? I really just don't want to pay a shop $100 to clear the code and have it be the conductor plate so I would have to pay an additional $100 to clear the codes a second time.
THANK YOU!