Transmission issue - HELP
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Westchester, NY
Ml320 2000
Transmission issue - HELP
ML320 2000 (229,000 miles)
Start to drive, all fine. After a few minutes on the road, car in drive but the gas does not effect it and car slow down to stop even if still in drive. Push the gas and no move. Turn key of for 30 seconds, start the car, shift into drive and all fine. Till a few minutes later. Happened again and again. Is it the transmission gone or electric components (my hope) Transmission fluid is fine, even a bit too much.
A local mechanic said it's dead and ask for $2,200 for refurbish it.
Any help?
Start to drive, all fine. After a few minutes on the road, car in drive but the gas does not effect it and car slow down to stop even if still in drive. Push the gas and no move. Turn key of for 30 seconds, start the car, shift into drive and all fine. Till a few minutes later. Happened again and again. Is it the transmission gone or electric components (my hope) Transmission fluid is fine, even a bit too much.
A local mechanic said it's dead and ask for $2,200 for refurbish it.
Any help?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,107
Likes: 765
From: Bronx, N.Y.
2002 ML 320 & 2006 ML500
Stick to one forum because I'm not going to flip flop on two forums. Post your question in the other forum.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,107
Likes: 765
From: Bronx, N.Y.
2002 ML 320 & 2006 ML500
If you want replace the 13 pin connector, then you will have to buy one from the dealer, $15-20. And then I will send you to a shop in N. White Plains where he will install the part and clear the codes.
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Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Westchester, NY
Ml320 2000
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Westchester, NY
Ml320 2000
Maj. Dundee,
A friend got the car up and got the connector out. When got the first part, the electric wires one, had some oil on around it. When got the housing part (the one with the 7mm screw in it) out, got around 1 quart of oil pouring out from the o-ring housing.
Waiting for new part to arrive and and than to clear the codes.
Hope this is the reason for the problem as you correctly detected and recommended to look into.
I will post this on the other forum for people to see the update.
A friend got the car up and got the connector out. When got the first part, the electric wires one, had some oil on around it. When got the housing part (the one with the 7mm screw in it) out, got around 1 quart of oil pouring out from the o-ring housing.
Waiting for new part to arrive and and than to clear the codes.
Hope this is the reason for the problem as you correctly detected and recommended to look into.
I will post this on the other forum for people to see the update.
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Houston Tx area
1999 ML320 w163
Super Member
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 639
Likes: 36
From: Cleveland OHIO
01 ML55AMG 04 ML500 03 ML350 08 ML63AMG
Dont think your transmission is bad, i would change the oil and the filter, replace the conductor plate and 13 pin connector after that clear the codes. I would do that before spending 3 grand on transmission. Good luck!
Super Member
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 639
Likes: 36
From: Cleveland OHIO
01 ML55AMG 04 ML500 03 ML350 08 ML63AMG
You might need the conductor plate and if you do the conductor plate, check the solenoids on it. But yes start from the connector first it might be the fix for you. but if your ml have a lot of miles and you trying to keep it for a wile, i would do the whole thing, its worth it, took me about 3 hours to do.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Westchester, NY
Ml320 2000
I am back and not good news.
Changed the pilot bushing, cleaned ATF in the connector housing case and used the AUTEL MD802 MaxiDiag Elite Diagnostic Tool to clear the codes.
Checked codes again - no faulty codes- so took it to a short ride.
First mile shift beautifully. Back home after a mile + with same problem. In drive or reverse and no move. Turn car off and on after few minutes and can drive again.
Codes that I get are as follow:
134 (stored)
135 (stored)
137 (stored)
P0720 (current)
P0700-106 (current)
Any idea what to do next?
Changed the pilot bushing, cleaned ATF in the connector housing case and used the AUTEL MD802 MaxiDiag Elite Diagnostic Tool to clear the codes.
Checked codes again - no faulty codes- so took it to a short ride.
First mile shift beautifully. Back home after a mile + with same problem. In drive or reverse and no move. Turn car off and on after few minutes and can drive again.
Codes that I get are as follow:
134 (stored)
135 (stored)
137 (stored)
P0720 (current)
P0700-106 (current)
Any idea what to do next?
Super Member
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 639
Likes: 36
From: Cleveland OHIO
01 ML55AMG 04 ML500 03 ML350 08 ML63AMG
I am back and not good news.
Changed the pilot bushing, cleaned ATF in the connector housing case and used the AUTEL MD802 MaxiDiag Elite Diagnostic Tool to clear the codes.
Checked codes again - no faulty codes- so took it to a short ride.
First mile shift beautifully. Back home after a mile + with same problem. In drive or reverse and no move. Turn car off and on after few minutes and can drive again.
Codes that I get are as follow:
134 (stored)
135 (stored)
137 (stored)
P0720 (current)
P0700-106 (current)
Any idea what to do next?
Changed the pilot bushing, cleaned ATF in the connector housing case and used the AUTEL MD802 MaxiDiag Elite Diagnostic Tool to clear the codes.
Checked codes again - no faulty codes- so took it to a short ride.
First mile shift beautifully. Back home after a mile + with same problem. In drive or reverse and no move. Turn car off and on after few minutes and can drive again.
Codes that I get are as follow:
134 (stored)
135 (stored)
137 (stored)
P0720 (current)
P0700-106 (current)
Any idea what to do next?
