M-Class (W163) Produced 1998-2005: ML 230, ML 320, ML 350, ML 400 CDI, ML 430, ML 500, ML 270 CDI

Info on Brakes

Old May 13, 2004 | 09:37 PM
  #1  
HeyItsDexter's Avatar
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Question Info on Brakes

do you guys know how much brake pads for 2002 ML 320 cost? where can i get them other than dealers (who sells them for an arm and a leg)? are they easy to install if i was to do them by myself?
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Old May 13, 2004 | 10:09 PM
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there are several options. http://www.germanstar.net has 'em, as well as http://www.importec.com

they're a lot cheaper than at the dealers, and it's a really, really simple DIY job.
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Old May 13, 2004 | 11:08 PM
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a car that can't do the throttle reset.
tirerack has them. very cheap. yes you can do it on your own if you have a little knowledge about brakes.
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Old May 14, 2004 | 11:30 AM
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thanks guys!
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Old May 14, 2004 | 11:20 PM
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Thumbs up

Brakeworld.com has some sweet brembos running them on my ML55, they cost me a little more than the plain ones, but they brake great.
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Old May 15, 2004 | 11:10 PM
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Is it necessary to disconnect the calipers when replacing the rotors? In other words, do you have to bleed the system afterward, or is it simply a matter of unbolting the old rotors and bolting on new ones and slipping in new pads? If that's all it is, I'll do it myself. If they have to be adjusted or something, I'll leave it to the pros.
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Old May 15, 2004 | 11:51 PM
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Originally posted by TLo
Is it necessary to disconnect the calipers when replacing the rotors? In other words, do you have to bleed the system afterward, or is it simply a matter of unbolting the old rotors and bolting on new ones and slipping in new pads? If that's all it is, I'll do it myself. If they have to be adjusted or something, I'll leave it to the pros.
I'm not familiar with the M-Class but I've changed rotors on the W201 and W124.

Starting with the car jacked up and on a jack stand, here's how you might do the front rotors.

Take the cap off the brake fluid resevoir and cover it with a folded shop rag to prevent fluid from overflowing and damaging paint.

Remove the wheel.

Unplug brake sensor if used.

If the calipers are swing calipers, remove the bolt, swing the caliper up and remove the pads.

Otherwise, drive out the pins and remove the pads.

Remove the two bolts holding the caliper. Suspend caliper from car using wire hanger or cord.

Using 5mm(?) allen wrench, take out cap screw holding rotor to car.

Tap rear of rotor with rubber mallet or something similar to get rotor off.

Mount new rotor and replace cap screw.

Mount caliper with new bolts or use locktite on old bolts.

Spread caliper.

Replace pads (new or old).

Plug in sensor.

Replace wheel.

Lower car.

Pump brakes a few times.

Move to opposite side.

Last edited by BudC; May 16, 2004 at 01:12 AM.
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Old May 16, 2004 | 12:32 AM
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TLo -- just as Bud described it. No need to disconnect.. definitely a DIY job..
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Old May 16, 2004 | 02:59 AM
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New rotors?

Do you really need new rotors?
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Old May 17, 2004 | 02:43 AM
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No I don't need new rotors. In fact, I don't need new brakes yet. I justed wanted to know how to do it for when the time comes. I'd like to save a little money and the it costs a lot at the dealer. Have to make up for the extra gas costs. I'm pretty handy with a rench but I've never touched brakes before.
Thanks Guys
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Old May 18, 2004 | 03:29 PM
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Originally posted by TLo
Do you have to bleed the system afterward, or is it simply a matter of unbolting the old rotors and bolting on new ones and slipping in new pads?
The brakes weren't bleed when I had new rotors and Rotex pads put on. Very little dusting afterward, too.
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