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I decided to purchase new aftermarket engine mounts. I think one or more is broken so I bought both fronts and the rear mount off ebay using some ebay bucks I had saved up. Man, this vehicle accelerates fast!
Also going to change the transmission fluid. I haven't searched yet, but am hoping that someone can recommend the procedure and type to get. I know with the W203 (C240), i bought the valvoline maxlife and have done 1 of 3 swaps to date by draining the pan and replenishing what came out.
This is another area you DO NOT want to buy anything other than genuine MB parts and a job you DO NOT want to do again. You haven't gone thru this, many of us here (myself included have). Trust us. You think it's fun accelerating without a jolt from a cracked or separated engine mount, until you rip them again in 6 months due to some inferior aftermarket brand.
Too late. Already bought them and they have a lifetime warranty. I'm stuck with them. I looked at the procedure and it doesn't look hard to replace them but i guess i'll find out soon enough. I should have asked first!
I'm not even sure mine are bad. I do have a little clunk when accelerating hard, but it could be the sway bar bushings which I'm replacing in the next couple days.
I'm not even sure mine are bad. I do have a little clunk when accelerating hard, but it could be the sway bar bushings which I'm replacing in the next couple days.
So did you not test the engine mounts before buying replacement ones?
Nope. Figured I'd need them sooner or later anyway and had a lot of ebay bucks to use up before they expired. Seems from reading here its a fairly common thing to break so its just a matter of time.
Nope. Figured I'd need them sooner or later anyway and had a lot of ebay bucks to use up before they expired. Seems from reading here its a fairly common thing to break so its just a matter of time.
It's a 10 second test. But guess it's your money. Appreciate the follow along, but if you don't ask for help and just blindly do things on these trucks because you think, you'll see why many people call these things money pits. They don't diagnose properly, they don't invest in a scanner, and they don't heed advice from the pros around here.
I think with the weather in the upper 60s this weekend, I will take the front bumper back off, fix some of the small cracks, install the foglights and washer covers, and try to make everything line up a bit better. I'm surprised how rough the ride is compared to my son's 2002 X5. His absorbs the bumps easily and is a very german like smooth ride, whereas this ML500 is like being in a jeep with all the bouncing around. I've inspected the front and rear suspension and can find nothing wrong anywhere. I even had a shock off the front passenger side when I was pushing the bumper out and the shock was in great shape.
I think with the weather in the upper 60s this weekend, I will take the front bumper back off, fix some of the small cracks, install the foglights and washer covers, and try to make everything line up a bit better.
Looking forward to seeing the progress!
Last edited by S70Houston; 04-05-2019 at 10:56 PM.
I fixed the ash tray in front of the shifter. Had to pull the entire console out and it was dirty underneath. Lots of spilled soda over the years. Got it all cleaned up and put back together and now my ashtray drawer closes. It was stuffed full of business cards and toothpicks and some change which stopped it from closing fully.
Aside from that, no. Been too busy with youth baseball, my son graduating, etc. I still have the C240 too but plan on selling it soon. I drove it yesterday and it fired right up after sitting for 3 weeks. Very reliable car!!
I did buy a new 2019 Kawasaki SXR standup jetski to go with the other jetskis, and with it warming up in Kansas, I hope to get it out on the lake soon. I still have to check the motor mounts on the W163 and put the fog lights and grill in my front bumper, but it never seems like I have time to do it. Priorities.....
I'm also "in training" to do a half marathon with my wife and never seem to get a chance to relax.
I need to get a spare key for the Mercedes ML500. What's the best way to do this? Dealer, or is there an aftermarket company that can do it cheaper for me? There is a service on ebay, but its around $250 IIRC and you have to send the ignition switch in with your key.
Low brake pad light comes on when pushing the brakes so I'm going to put new front and rear brakes on this weekend. I think its time to check the motor mounts also as I'm pretty sure one or all 3 are broken, (2 side and 1 rear trans mount).
Aside from that, I've ordered a new windshield washer reservoir as mine is cracking and despite attempts to fix it, its not holding much fluid. Everything else is working great!
Replaced the motor mounts today. Drivers side was completely separated, passenger side was fine, but, I replaced both anyway since I had 2 new mounts. Took about 3.5 hours and I worked slow. Not a bad job at all.
A few people have been asking what I paid for this including copart fees so I figured I'd list it all here. I really like the vehicle except for it's rough ride. It rides like a jeep, not a Mercedes and I'm not sure if that's normal or not. I bought it because of the low miles (around 62k now), and the fact that its 4wd, sits high, and my wife likes driving it. I will say, however, after driving my son's 2002 X5, the X5 is a much much nicer ride, more comfortable, smoother, the vehicle feels tighter, overall its a world of difference.
Just to try and answer your question about the ride quality, these MLs tend to be kind of "bouncy" at times, due to the relatively short wheelbase, as well as the short amount of suspension travel compared to other cars... though it shouldn't be alarming. On my ML55 (2000), I think that replacing all 4 shock absorbers, and getting it aligned properly (at the dealer ONLY) made the biggest difference. Also, ONLY use Bilstein shocks. Anything else simply isn't good enough. These shocks can't really be "tested" simply by hand. If they have over 60k on them, it's best to just replace them.
One more thing is tire pressures. Since a large amount of the "suspension work" is actually done by the tire itself, the pressure plays a crucial role in how the car rides. Hope that helps!
Just to try and answer your question about the ride quality, these MLs tend to be kind of "bouncy" at times, due to the relatively short wheelbase, as well as the short amount of suspension travel compared to other cars... though it shouldn't be alarming. On my ML55 (2000), I think that replacing all 4 shock absorbers, and getting it aligned properly (at the dealer ONLY) made the biggest difference. Also, ONLY use Bilstein shocks. Anything else simply isn't good enough. These shocks can't really be "tested" simply by hand. If they have over 60k on them, it's best to just replace them.
One more thing is tire pressures. Since a large amount of the "suspension work" is actually done by the tire itself, the pressure plays a crucial role in how the car rides. Hope that helps!
There are other options to reduce and prevent the bounce.
ML55s were always a stiff ride vs. the other models. Different, stiffer rear struts and stiffer front end shocks.
imo, Dealer ONLY alignment isnt going to resolve the ride; only your wallet is going to notice the difference.
You say Bilsteins are the only choice? Anything else simply isn't good enough?? Please elaborate.
In fact, there are choices out there. You just have to look and research and ask.
Rear struts? - Coilovers and affordable vs. the garbage bouncy strut replacements sold out there. Of course, if you want the oem $trut$ from the Stealer$hip (they will be glad to lighten your wallet for you....)
Done with the correct shocks and properly rated springs. pte, myself and I believe a few others have done this. Ride and suspension works much better than the ML55 imo. And adjustable too.
I'm up to 65,900 now and still running like a champ. I still need to fix the defrost control. The defrost is always on a bit, even when selecting other blower positions, so either the plastic arm is broken or the gear inside the actuator is trashed. Either way, I have a 3d printer now and am going to fix it. I just need to find time to take the assembly apart and figure out what it needs.
2nd. The rear defrost works somewhat, but when I turn it on, radio reception goes to static, so I need to see what is shorted out. I'm going to do a forum search and see if there is a common problem. Aside from that, it works great in light snow and sleet so far, no complaints. I might give the car to my son and retire his 200k mile X5 and look for a tundra or perhaps another newer ML later this year since I think it would be a reliable vehicle for him.
I'm up to 65,900 now and still running like a champ. I still need to fix the defrost control. The defrost is always on a bit, even when selecting other blower positions, so either the plastic arm is broken or the gear inside the actuator is trashed. Either way, I have a 3d printer now and am going to fix it. I just need to find time to take the assembly apart and figure out what it needs.
2nd. The rear defrost works somewhat, but when I turn it on, radio reception goes to static, so I need to see what is shorted out. I'm going to do a forum search and see if there is a common problem. Aside from that, it works great in light snow and sleet so far, no complaints. I might give the car to my son and retire his 200k mile X5 and look for a tundra or perhaps another newer ML later this year since I think it would be a reliable vehicle for him.
Please share how you fixed the rear defrost problem detail with picture if possible. I have the exact same issue and never got a chance to fix the problem. Thanks
I haven't fixed it yet. I understand it will require removing the rear hatch trim/inside parts and its been too cold to mess with it.
My main issue right now is with the LOUD SCREECHING front brakes when I back out of the drive in the morning. I understand there is a TSB out for it and it requires using stock MB pads and rotors, but surely there's another way to get rid of the screech. Rotors were replaced this summer and pads this fall. Only when it got cold out do I get a loud screeching sound when backing up, and its gone when going forward. I've taken the pads off, coated the back with disc brake quiet, and it doesn't matter. I think the issue is how the pad engages the rotor itself and has anyone had luck making this quiet without having to buy all new MB rotors and pads?
I haven't fixed it yet. I understand it will require removing the rear hatch trim/inside parts and its been too cold to mess with it.
My main issue right now is with the LOUD SCREECHING front brakes when I back out of the drive in the morning. I understand there is a TSB out for it and it requires using stock MB pads and rotors, but surely there's another way to get rid of the screech. Rotors were replaced this summer and pads this fall. Only when it got cold out do I get a loud screeching sound when backing up, and its gone when going forward. I've taken the pads off, coated the back with disc brake quiet, and it doesn't matter. I think the issue is how the pad engages the rotor itself and has anyone had luck making this quiet without having to buy all new MB rotors and pads?
The ML is known for the rear brake screech. Are you certain it's not the rear brakes?
It's definitely the front brakes. I used CRC Disc brake quiet on the backs of the pads like I do for all my vehicles and it worked great.. for about a week. I would like to mention that when its warm outside, I get no squeak. Only in the winter when it is cold do the front brakes squeak when reversing out of my drive. Going forward, no squeak at all.
04-03-2019, 10:34 AM
