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Went to change the oil today, and pulled the oil cap and saw this.
So thats a busted head gasket right?
I took a picture of the coolant reservoir and its a little low (I filled it up about 5 months ago)
For reference, I drive about 90 miles every week on Monday, then about 10 miles a day in between, so I dont think its from too many cold trips. Although it was especially cold in the past few weeks here in the midwest.
coolant mixing with the oil?
Your photo doesn't indicate this.
Wouldn't hurt for you to perform a leak down test.
Make yourself a hotdog or bratwurst, and clean up that mustard.
Take it for a good long hard drive (maybe like you stole it) and monitor.
Engine not getting to operating temp for any length of time.
coolant mixing with the oil?
Your photo doesn't indicate this.
Wouldn't hurt for you to perform a leak down test.
Make yourself a hotdog or bratwurst, and clean up that mustard.
Take it for a good long hard drive (maybe like you stole it) and monitor.
Engine not getting to operating temp for any length of time.
no overheating, no rough idle.
I do have a persistent P0455 code that I've not been able to figure out (nor could the dealer).
Engine never gets above 80 degrees anymore, used to get up to about 88 but that was when it was hot out.
Changed the oil today and it looked a bit more golden than the usual black stuff.
I do have a persistent P0455 code that I've not been able to figure out (nor could the dealer).
Engine never gets above 80 degrees anymore, used to get up to about 88 but that was when it was hot out.
Changed the oil today and it looked a bit more golden than the usual black stuff.
P0455
Check your hose connections to & from the purge valve under the hood.
Also check hose connection to shut off valve by the spare wheel.
Could also be your fuel tank pressure sensor - it gets stuck.
But replace your gas cap first, if you haven't done so - it's a cheap first step.
As for your temps, maybe test your present thermostat in a pot of hot water, or simply replace it. It's cheap too.
No, it isn't toast. That cream indicates that short trips are usually taken. Leave everything as is and drive the car at hwy speed for 20 mins. or longer at operating temp. and it will disappear.
As for code P0455, check to Charcoal Canister Shut-off Valve at the right rear tire area for broken hose. Khomer probably forgot that it was moved from the spare tire area to its now location.
No, it isn't toast. That cream indicates that short trips are usually taken. Leave everything as is and drive the car at hwy speed for 20 mins. or longer at operating temp. and it will disappear.
As for code P0455, check to Charcoal Canister Shut-off Valve at the right rear tire area for broken hose. Khomer probably forgot that it was moved from the spare tire area to its now location.
my bad. should have KNOWN this.
Cheers, for the correction.
Acrually, Illinois does have testing, but not in less populated areas. Cook County, surrounding Chicago, has emission testing every two years once a car is over 4 years old (IIRC). They just plug into the OBDC connector and if there are no codes, you pass. If you do not pass, they will not renew your state tags. At least we don't have the **** retentive inspections like Massachusetts. My daughter's old Civic failed because of a 2-inch crack in the bumper cover. They would not pass a cosmetic repair, had to replace with a used cover to pass. They check all kinds of stuff. I guess you won't see the sorts of rolling wrecks there that we see here. . .
Downstate, where you are located, doesn't have to put up with that bullstuff.
Those stupid 80 straws that go to the charcoal canister that everyone is referencing is where my money is -
I did my own smoke test (I would suggest you do it yourself if you have not so you can see patiently with your own eyes, I would definitely not trust a dealer (who wants to not fix your car and wants you to buy a new one)) and saw smoke coming from the overpriced straws in the back there by the spare tire going to the canister.
I replaced it and then got the "very small leak" code and it turns out when it was attached I broke one of the internal clips so even though smoke wasn't visibly escaping it was still registering a leak, and I bought another 80 dollar straw and more carefully put it on and the code when away.
Since other people are working on your vehicle, you don't know if they took those hoses off to inspect and them and put them back on correctly.
It was funny, when I bought that at the dealer the parts guy saw the price and said "wow they are really proud of that one I guess." You know its a rip off when the parts counter at the dealer is even making fun of it
I do my own work and actually have my own smoke machine too. I even turned off all the lights in the garage and rooted around with my LED flashlight and still didn't see a single leak. I've tried multiple times and multiple locations.
You're probably right that it's one of those charcoal canister related lines. It drives me nuts but I've put enough of my own time and money into it.
Did you check inside the cabin above the driver side rear wheel well, where the hose from the canister connect in the trunk.
Sorry if I am pointing out the obvious, just trying to think of areas that can be overlooked. And if it makes you feel any better we've probably all been there trying to find a gremlin in a smoke or leak down test, it's frustrating.
If you're talking about the rectangular piece that covers up the filler neck tube, then yes. I replaced the fuel tank pressure sensor too. Not sure if I looked there when it was smoke testing though.
When I would do the smoke test, the system would definitely pressurize because I hear a huge woosh when I would undo the gas cap to check that area for leaks.
May not be what you want to hear. Years ago (sold the ML in 2014) had a P0455 code and CEL. P0455 is generic to most makes and can come from anywhere in the evap system. Myself, dealer, and indie mech could not find cause. No leak seen by smoke test. Seemed to hold pressure. Deleting code would turn off CEL for an hour or so, then back on. Changed fuel filler cap (inexpensive) with no result. Indie mech decided to just remove the canister and found it cracked at the mounting point. After replacement (not inexpensive), problem was solved. We speculate that the cause was the hairline crack sealed well enough to hold pressure with the engine off and SUV not in motion. But when it was on the road vibration caused just enough of a leak to cause a fault.
That's very interesting. Which canister do you mean? The vent valve near the spare tire?
Also, I should note that I believe this problem started after I changed out the brake booster plunger seal during which I bumped a lot of lines under the hood. I'm thinking maybe I vacuum line from the throttle body got jiggled loose, but I know the one from the purge valve is well seated.
Last edited by norcalcasey; 03-02-2021 at 09:01 AM.
That's very interesting. Which canister do you mean? The vent valve near the spare tire?
Also, I should note that I believe this problem started after I changed out the brake booster plunger seal during which I bumped a lot of lines under the hood. I'm thinking maybe I vacuum line from the throttle body got jiggled loose, but I know the one from the purge valve is well seated.
The Charcoal Canister is inside the fuel tank and is irreplaceable. The Canister Shutoff Valve controls it.
Look for the valve at the right rear tire & tank area. I have already posted a photo of it.
I'm digging back through my memory, but what was replaced was in the back near the fuel tank. I don't remember it being white like the pic that Maj Dundee posted, so I thought it was another component. It may have been the valve because it only had one or two lines connected to it. The ML had been in a rear end accident years before. The accident was severe enough to break the fiberglass hatch cover and damage the exhaust mountings. Maybe the valve was damaged then or even replaced. Let me apologize and sign off before I mislead further.
02-25-2021, 04:19 PM
