Fuse location for coolant/engine temperature - Mercedes ml 270 cdi w163 2002 UK model
I recently noticed that on my dashboard cluster display the water coolant temperature dial is not registering anything but noticed that the internal car temperature was getting hot and when i lifted the bonnet i discovered that my coolant tank almost was empty, so after letting the vehicle cool down i re- topped it with water, i am now keeping an eye on the coolant tank, because the coolant /engine temperature is not registering on the dash......is there a fuse blown ????.......or is it something else ?
Do you have a square type fuse attached to the POSITIVE cable?
Last edited by Maj. Dundee; Aug 22, 2021 at 03:54 AM.
I have never used my AC
.....I have let the engine run for a good ten minutes, then i have tried the AC dials in the attachments but no joy there....
I had the engine running for a further 20 minutes, at no times did the fan kick in
The square block (fuse) on the battery is OK
climate control panel
I pressed this button first (red light)...fan did not come ON
I pressed this button second (red light)...fan still did not come ON
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However the little button is not the main problem of my original THREAD....I have submitted the information that you requested with attachments regarding:-
- The FAN
- The SQUARE block (fuse) on the battery
- ...and if the FAN came ON when the AC was activated
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thanks for the link
Today I started my vehicle up, and warmed the engine up for about 10+ minutes
I then as you instructed turned the FAN to full (5), and the Temperature to maximum cold (16), and the third dial to the left (which i assume is the AC) as being shown in your attachment etc
.....but the radiator Fan still did NOT come ON ?
i was told by someone that the fan does not kick in until the engine has warmed up ???
However i did what you told me to do initially without warming the engine up and the fan did not come on then either
It's time to read codes in the AAC Module. Scanner is necessary.
does it have to be done on star scanner or will it be ok to use the iCarsoft 2nd Generation scanner for these (AC Module) codes /
For some reason the iCarsoft scanner does not cover all the scanning modes particularly on the Mercedes Benz ML Class 270cdi models, specifically the early or around the years 2000 etc
I know nothing about your iCarsoft 2nd Generation. If it cannot read codes in the AAC it is useless. Get the right one.
i went to the mechanic for a scanner reading of my vehicle
the mechanic said that without going into the scanner reading situation, he can tell that my engine has a serious AIR LOCK !!!!!
i might as well tell you the procedure, whilst parked outside his workshop, he instructed me to warm the engine up on high revs and that he will return to me in about 10 to 15 mins
after 10 mins he returned and turned off the engine and slowly cautiously opened and removed the water/coolant filler cap and asked me to re-start the engine and repeat the procedure on high revs for another 10 to 15 mins.....again he came back after 15 mins and turned the engine off and replaced the filler and restarted the engine and let it run for another 15 mins.....during this time I noticed the radiator fan came ON and my temperature gauge was now also WORKING (however the temperature gauge now reads 50 degrees , whereas before it used to read 85 degrees ?)
the reason I have gone to a great length in describing the above procedure is so as that maybe some member on this forum may find this information helpful
the mechanic did not charge me anything for this fix (probably because i did all the work ! )
Anyhow all done and dusted thanks to everyone
Regards
i went to the mechanic for a scanner reading of my vehicle
the mechanic said that without going into the scanner reading situation, he can tell that my engine has a serious AIR LOCK !!!!!
i might as well tell you the procedure, whilst parked outside his workshop, he instructed me to warm the engine up on high revs and that he will return to me in about 10 to 15 mins
after 10 mins he returned and turned off the engine and slowly cautiously opened and removed the water/coolant filler cap and asked me to re-start the engine and repeat the procedure on high revs for another 10 to 15 mins.....again he came back after 15 mins and turned the engine off and replaced the filler and restarted the engine and let it run for another 15 mins.....during this time I noticed the radiator fan came ON and my temperature gauge was now also WORKING (however the temperature gauge now reads 50 degrees , whereas before it used to read 85 degrees ?)
the reason I have gone to a great length in describing the above procedure is so as that maybe some member on this forum may find this information helpful
the mechanic did not charge me anything for this fix (probably because i did all the work ! )
Anyhow all done and dusted thanks to everyone
Regards




