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WOW! This is exactly what I was looking for, and in need of.
Very much appreciated, I will put it to good use by following it as written.
My 2001 ML engine seized on a mountain pass in Colorado - blowing all oil out of the front of the engine. It is a Designo that I hope to keep moving along up to 300k, or near-to.
Normally I would offer to take a few photos to help those who are next in need - but this is more than adequate.
I see Maj Dundee is a "Major" resource - thank you for the helping hand to so many.
WOW! This is exactly what I was looking for, and in need of.
Very much appreciated, I will put it to good use by following it as written.
My 2001 ML engine seized on a mountain pass in Colorado - blowing all oil out of the front of the engine. It is a Designo that I hope to keep moving along up to 300k, or near-to.
Normally I would offer to take a few photos to help those who are next in need - but this is more than adequate.
I see Maj Dundee is a "Major" resource - thank you for the helping hand to so many.
Question: M112 Engine R&I: On the #1 pdf in this post, item# 39: Insert Transmission Support (22).
(prevents torque converter being pulled out/steadies transmission when installing engine)
Is this a special tool/item?
Can it be 'field fabricated'?
Work-Around?
Are you planning to do a swap? If "Yes', it is really pretty easy if you have the hand tools and follow the steps. Lots of wobble extensions are a big plus. And pay attention to the bolts for the bolt on accessories - they should be mapped for replacement - not all the same even when they look the same. Especially for the power steering pump. You want to keep the aluminum block in OE condition. I did one in my driveway on jack stands, and another in a DIY Shop in San Jose w/lifts etc. Really not a whole lot of difference. NOTE: New bolts/screws etc are called for in several steps. I followed the procedure where called for.
About the transmission tool, you see I had the same question. Couldn't find one, so I went to poach. The service manager at my local MB dealership told me they didn't use one when doing ML's back in the day. It is just a support for the transmission to elevate the front of the motor so the assemblies can be separated. They used a section of exhaust pipe across the torsion bars. I did the same but with a short crowbar. For my Driveway swap, I used a floor jack with a load spreader on top to hold the transmission up. Makes it easier if the whole assembly is tilted up as far as the body allows. When starting to separate the two assemblies, after an inch or two reach in with a pry tool to stabilize the TC. It is easy to keep it in place on the input shaft. The tranny will fall over left or right a little bit - just sit it level left to right when mating. I used an engine leveler tool. It is a godsend when reinstalling the motor. Use short pilot bolts for alignment. I fiddled with adjustments until it was just right - the unit slipped together. I am sure the tool would make it easier if you can find one. But it is easy enough without, the tranny 'weight' is minimal.
How to make this photo smaller?? Bolting in a swapped CLK320 engine at DIY Workshop.
I plan to do another this summer. For it I will replace all the AC components while the engine is out. And the brake booster seal. Maybe Front Shocks - Sachs are very affordable, and give a ride close to factory.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
Remove & Replace W163 ML320 Engine, procedure
