M-Class (W163) Produced 1998-2005: ML 230, ML 320, ML 350, ML 400 CDI, ML 430, ML 500, ML 270 CDI

Bad Fuel level sensor

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Old Sep 11, 2024 | 02:03 PM
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sjacobs's Avatar
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From: San Diego
2000 ML430
Bad Fuel level sensor

Before I get into this I wanted to state that I am SELLING my 2000 ML430. Not because of this issue, but because I have more cars than drivers and no longer need this ML after owning it since 2008.

I used a mobile mechanic to replaced the original radiator that was leaking which he did for $500 out the door. Immediately after I developed a new problem which I later asked him to help diagnose "why" my ML430 W163 would die after approx 15 mins of driving it. It starts when cold no problem. This mechanic swore the issue was the "fuel pump". I now know I should have NOT listened to him and should have stuck by my findings of 58 PSI as measured by the pressure test I did using a gauge.

The mechanic ripped the rear seats out like a gorilla and cut open the fuel tank to get to the fuel pump. After he got to the pump and removed it he finally agreed "It's not the pump" and then put it back in. Along the way, he managed to damage the fuel level sensor. He wouldn't listen to my suggestion that it could be the crankshaft position sensor which I suspected after researching this forum.
He ultimately decided I "have an electrical issue" and said he couldn't help me. He also refused to install a CPS because according to him it would have "thrown a code" and there were no codes.

I took the car to a nearby mechanic and for $125 he found and fixed the issue = surprise it was the CPS.

Now I am left with a fuel level that is stuck at zero. I know there is gas in the tank approx 1/2 and I also added some more gas (3 gallons) just to see if the gauge would move which it didn't. The seats are still pulled so I do plan to get back into the tank to fix the fuel level sensor issue.

Here is my question: Since I am selling the car I don't want to invest in an expensive fuel assembly. I do want/need to fix the fuel gauge so I can sell it, but should I install a new aftermarket entire assembly, or should I consider taking the top half of the assembly off (where the fuel level sensor is) and keeping the original bottom portion of the pump? I purchased a CHEAP Amazon pump like $61 and don't know if it's better to just install the entire new Chinese pump, or Frankenstein it and just use the fuel level sensor portion with the factory pump?

At least the seats are still pulled.

I realize this isn't the prettiest story and I should have simply done the CPS but ya- hindsight is 20/20. We live and learn and sometimes it's the hard way.
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Old Sep 11, 2024 | 10:31 PM
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Steven Jacobs's Avatar
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W163
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Originally Posted by sjacobs
Before I get into this I wanted to state that I am SELLING my 2000 ML430. Not because of this issue, but because I have more cars than drivers and no longer need this ML after owning it since 2008.

I used a mobile mechanic to replaced the original radiator that was leaking which he did for $500 out the door. Immediately after I developed a new problem which I later asked him to help diagnose "why" my ML430 W163 would die after approx 15 mins of driving it. It starts when cold no problem. This mechanic swore the issue was the "fuel pump". I now know I should have NOT listened to him and should have stuck by my findings of 58 PSI as measured by the pressure test I did using a gauge.

The mechanic ripped the rear seats out like a gorilla and cut open the fuel tank to get to the fuel pump. After he got to the pump and removed it he finally agreed "It's not the pump" and then put it back in. Along the way, he managed to damage the fuel level sensor. He wouldn't listen to my suggestion that it could be the crankshaft position sensor which I suspected after researching this forum.
He ultimately decided I "have an electrical issue" and said he couldn't help me. He also refused to install a CPS because according to him it would have "thrown a code" and there were no codes.

I took the car to a nearby mechanic and for $125 he found and fixed the issue = surprise it was the CPS.

Now I am left with a fuel level that is stuck at zero. I know there is gas in the tank approx 1/2 and I also added some more gas (3 gallons) just to see if the gauge would move which it didn't. The seats are still pulled so I do plan to get back into the tank to fix the fuel level sensor issue.

Here is my question: Since I am selling the car I don't want to invest in an expensive fuel assembly. I do want/need to fix the fuel gauge so I can sell it, but should I install a new aftermarket entire assembly, or should I consider taking the top half of the assembly off (where the fuel level sensor is) and keeping the original bottom portion of the pump? I purchased a CHEAP Amazon pump like $61 and don't know if it's better to just install the entire new Chinese pump, or Frankenstein it and just use the fuel level sensor portion with the factory pump?

At least the seats are still pulled.

I realize this isn't the prettiest story and I should have simply done the CPS but ya- hindsight is 20/20. We live and learn and sometimes it's the hard way.


i installed the new cheap Amazon fuel pump ans all is well so far. Furl level sensor works ans car started right up.

mobile mechanic broke the pins off the original sending unit.

Last edited by Steven Jacobs; Sep 11, 2024 at 10:33 PM.
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