Front & rear skid plate installation on ML350
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Lake Oswego, OR
2020 GLE 450; 2023 BMW M2 Coupe
Front & rear skid plate installation on ML350
I recently installed the ML500 front & rear stainless steel "skid plates" on my 350. The parts are sold as accessory retrofit kits by M-B. The price is fairly ridiculous, but I bit the bullet anyway. My wife drives this car most the time and I didn't want to go to the trouble and expense of a Brabus kit, for instance.
The front is #6-6-88-0162, $530 list. It includes only the stainless plate and four stainless torx head fasteners. The guage of the metal is much thinner than the W163 piece with the bumper guard bar. The rear is #6-6-88-0163, $630 list. It includes the plate, a new lower rear bumper valance and hardware. The parts guy gave me $80 off on the rear.
I tackled the rear first. Removing the lower (black & silver plastic) valance was not too hard, but it took the better part of an hour, being careful. There are bolts at the bottom, and the top snaps into the bumper cover. You need to insert a flat screwdriver to release the tabs while pulling out on the valance. There are also two plastic pop out fasteners on each side underneath.
I discovered my lower valance was different because I have the factory-installed trailer hitch. I had to cut out the lower center of the new one with a sabre saw, using the old one as a guide. The new one installed quickly, then I fastened on the stainless plate using the supplied torx head bolts top and bottom. I used a little blue Loctite for good measure. A perfect fit.
The front, I disocovered, also required removing the lower valance because the new fasteners at the top go in a location where the back is not accessible, otherwise. I first removed the bottom undertray panel and all the (many) bolts and fasteners at the bottom edge of the lower valance. Try as I might using the same techniques I did at the rear, I could not get the valance to release from the bumper cover. I ended up taking it to the dealer. They found out the whole bumper cover needs to be removed. As long as it was there, I had them complete the installation. 1 1/2 hours labor was charged (they told me 2 hours originally).
All in all, I am pleased with the result. I have not included any installed photos, because it looks just like an ML500.
The front is #6-6-88-0162, $530 list. It includes only the stainless plate and four stainless torx head fasteners. The guage of the metal is much thinner than the W163 piece with the bumper guard bar. The rear is #6-6-88-0163, $630 list. It includes the plate, a new lower rear bumper valance and hardware. The parts guy gave me $80 off on the rear.
I tackled the rear first. Removing the lower (black & silver plastic) valance was not too hard, but it took the better part of an hour, being careful. There are bolts at the bottom, and the top snaps into the bumper cover. You need to insert a flat screwdriver to release the tabs while pulling out on the valance. There are also two plastic pop out fasteners on each side underneath.
I discovered my lower valance was different because I have the factory-installed trailer hitch. I had to cut out the lower center of the new one with a sabre saw, using the old one as a guide. The new one installed quickly, then I fastened on the stainless plate using the supplied torx head bolts top and bottom. I used a little blue Loctite for good measure. A perfect fit.
The front, I disocovered, also required removing the lower valance because the new fasteners at the top go in a location where the back is not accessible, otherwise. I first removed the bottom undertray panel and all the (many) bolts and fasteners at the bottom edge of the lower valance. Try as I might using the same techniques I did at the rear, I could not get the valance to release from the bumper cover. I ended up taking it to the dealer. They found out the whole bumper cover needs to be removed. As long as it was there, I had them complete the installation. 1 1/2 hours labor was charged (they told me 2 hours originally).
All in all, I am pleased with the result. I have not included any installed photos, because it looks just like an ML500.
Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 79
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From: Luxembourg, Europe
'07 Lexus RX400h
Nice writeup, Greg.
However, the price you paid for retrofitting makes me very happy I got mine ex-works for 280 EUR net - and imagine I thought THAT was a little steep for two pieces of thin-gauge stainless steel
Cheers,
Birger
However, the price you paid for retrofitting makes me very happy I got mine ex-works for 280 EUR net - and imagine I thought THAT was a little steep for two pieces of thin-gauge stainless steel
Cheers,
Birger
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 396
Likes: 11
From: Ontario, Canada
2006 ML500, 2008 ML350
I recently installed the ML500 front & rear stainless steel "skid plates" on my 350. The parts are sold as accessory retrofit kits by M-B. The price is fairly ridiculous, but I bit the bullet anyway. My wife drives this car most the time and I didn't want to go to the trouble and expense of a Brabus kit, for instance.
The front is #6-6-88-0162, $530 list. It includes only the stainless plate and four stainless torx head fasteners. The guage of the metal is much thinner than the W163 piece with the bumper guard bar. The rear is #6-6-88-0163, $630 list. It includes the plate, a new lower rear bumper valance and hardware. The parts guy gave me $80 off on the rear.
I tackled the rear first. Removing the lower (black & silver plastic) valance was not too hard, but it took the better part of an hour, being careful. There are bolts at the bottom, and the top snaps into the bumper cover. You need to insert a flat screwdriver to release the tabs while pulling out on the valance. There are also two plastic pop out fasteners on each side underneath.
I discovered my lower valance was different because I have the factory-installed trailer hitch. I had to cut out the lower center of the new one with a sabre saw, using the old one as a guide. The new one installed quickly, then I fastened on the stainless plate using the supplied torx head bolts top and bottom. I used a little blue Loctite for good measure. A perfect fit.
The front, I disocovered, also required removing the lower valance because the new fasteners at the top go in a location where the back is not accessible, otherwise. I first removed the bottom undertray panel and all the (many) bolts and fasteners at the bottom edge of the lower valance. Try as I might using the same techniques I did at the rear, I could not get the valance to release from the bumper cover. I ended up taking it to the dealer. They found out the whole bumper cover needs to be removed. As long as it was there, I had them complete the installation. 1 1/2 hours labor was charged (they told me 2 hours originally).
All in all, I am pleased with the result. I have not included any installed photos, because it looks just like an ML500.
The front is #6-6-88-0162, $530 list. It includes only the stainless plate and four stainless torx head fasteners. The guage of the metal is much thinner than the W163 piece with the bumper guard bar. The rear is #6-6-88-0163, $630 list. It includes the plate, a new lower rear bumper valance and hardware. The parts guy gave me $80 off on the rear.
I tackled the rear first. Removing the lower (black & silver plastic) valance was not too hard, but it took the better part of an hour, being careful. There are bolts at the bottom, and the top snaps into the bumper cover. You need to insert a flat screwdriver to release the tabs while pulling out on the valance. There are also two plastic pop out fasteners on each side underneath.
I discovered my lower valance was different because I have the factory-installed trailer hitch. I had to cut out the lower center of the new one with a sabre saw, using the old one as a guide. The new one installed quickly, then I fastened on the stainless plate using the supplied torx head bolts top and bottom. I used a little blue Loctite for good measure. A perfect fit.
The front, I disocovered, also required removing the lower valance because the new fasteners at the top go in a location where the back is not accessible, otherwise. I first removed the bottom undertray panel and all the (many) bolts and fasteners at the bottom edge of the lower valance. Try as I might using the same techniques I did at the rear, I could not get the valance to release from the bumper cover. I ended up taking it to the dealer. They found out the whole bumper cover needs to be removed. As long as it was there, I had them complete the installation. 1 1/2 hours labor was charged (they told me 2 hours originally).
All in all, I am pleased with the result. I have not included any installed photos, because it looks just like an ML500.
Last edited by anavabi; Oct 27, 2021 at 07:40 PM.
