Oil Dipstick Measure Irregularities 320 CDi
10-02-2010, 05:35 AM
#1
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2008 ML 320 CDI
Oil Dipstick Measure Irregularities 320 CDi
Hi,
Prior to oil change procedue today on our ML 320 Cdi
Checked the oil level on the dipstick before draining it. It was at its lowest point. Mmmm ???
Anyway I vacum drained the sump. Replaced the oil filter.
Filled to 8.5 litres as required. Dipstick reading was same as above, at the lowest point.
Put in an additional litre of oil to ensure the level was closer to the top mark.
So now the ML has 9.5 litres of new oil.
Later when i emptied the vacum contaner the oil amounted to 8.5 litres.
What's going on here. The owner's manual says don't overfill.
I surmise that the dip stick as a measuring device is highly inaccurate - well in my case at least.
Anyone out there with some advice please before I call MB AU.
Cheers ... Nick
Prior to oil change procedue today on our ML 320 Cdi
Checked the oil level on the dipstick before draining it. It was at its lowest point. Mmmm ???
Anyway I vacum drained the sump. Replaced the oil filter.
Filled to 8.5 litres as required. Dipstick reading was same as above, at the lowest point.
Put in an additional litre of oil to ensure the level was closer to the top mark.
So now the ML has 9.5 litres of new oil.
Later when i emptied the vacum contaner the oil amounted to 8.5 litres.
What's going on here. The owner's manual says don't overfill.
I surmise that the dip stick as a measuring device is highly inaccurate - well in my case at least.
Anyone out there with some advice please before I call MB AU.
Cheers ... Nick
10-05-2010, 12:16 PM
#2
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2008 ML 320 CDI
MB Australia Techos advise its ok to have an extra 1 litre of oil - ie up to 9.5 litres. They also advised its a good idea to start with an 8.5 litre fill, go for a drive, let the ML settle for half an hour and check the oil level and top up as necessary. Should you have too much oil or not enough in the engine, a warning light will advise you accordingly.
Our local MB agent advises they often put in more than the standard 8.5 litres of oil into ML's.
From now on I will be putting in 9.5 litres every time I change the oil and filter.
Nick
Our local MB agent advises they often put in more than the standard 8.5 litres of oil into ML's.
From now on I will be putting in 9.5 litres every time I change the oil and filter.
Nick
10-05-2010, 02:15 PM
#3
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2011 GLK350, 2010 ML350, 2008 C63 AMG
Doesn't the oil filter suck up about half a liter of oil so i think that is why when you vacuumed it after you put in 9.5L, you only got 8.5L out.
10-05-2010, 05:39 PM
#4
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Interesting point. I removed the oil filter before vacuming.
As the oil filter sits on top of the engine, when I removed it, there was a little oil, around 80ml in the left corner of filter bay and a small amount in the filter it self.
When undoing the filter housing and you lift it up, the filter stem is released from its is o-ringed sealed placement, the oil then drains away into the bay and into the engine through an access to the left side of the filter bay.
Cleaning out the housing is a messy job.
When replacing the new filter you must oil the two o-rings before refitting and torque the filter housing to 25nm, or a tight twist with the wrist.
The vacumming experience was a pain. It took forever and I had to pump the vacum unit a few more times to ensure all the oil was out.
The vacum unit was a brand new Pela 14 litre unit.
Next time I will drain the oil via the sump plug and see how that goes.
As the oil filter sits on top of the engine, when I removed it, there was a little oil, around 80ml in the left corner of filter bay and a small amount in the filter it self.
When undoing the filter housing and you lift it up, the filter stem is released from its is o-ringed sealed placement, the oil then drains away into the bay and into the engine through an access to the left side of the filter bay.
Cleaning out the housing is a messy job.
When replacing the new filter you must oil the two o-rings before refitting and torque the filter housing to 25nm, or a tight twist with the wrist.
The vacumming experience was a pain. It took forever and I had to pump the vacum unit a few more times to ensure all the oil was out.
The vacum unit was a brand new Pela 14 litre unit.
Next time I will drain the oil via the sump plug and see how that goes.
10-05-2010, 09:48 PM
#5
Super Member
There will always be some oil in the system that you cant vacuum out. This would be the oil in the turbo lines, in pockets of the cylinder head and block, and trapped in the lifters and oil pump.
Vacuum out the sump as you did, (also easy to vacuum the oil filter housing). Replace filter and add your oil. (About 8 Quarts) Then check the level and top up as needed. Mine usually takes 8.5 to 9 Quarts. I slowly top up until the oil is at the top mark of the dipstick. Doing this has never given me a low or high oil light.
Don't worry about how much you drain, unless the low oil light came on prior. The rest is hidden in there somewhere and is negligible to a 9 quart system.
I used to drain with the drain plug, but after the second time I gave up and went back to the vacuum method.
Why?
1) The copper washer that seals the drain plug is VERY hard to find. Dealer would probably give you the wrong one, and you will end up reusing the old one. The diesel one is a tad smaller and thicker.
2) To get to the drain plug requires a removal of the undercarriage splash shield
, AND a noise insulating blanket around the oil pan. After you remove and replace these items, clean up the spill from the drained oil that splashes off the suspension, wipe out the oil that drains into the wire harness under there, and realize that you still drain the same amount as the vacuum method, you will never do this again.
Take care and remember to use the correct oil (Mobil1 ESP 5W40 Formula M)
Vacuum out the sump as you did, (also easy to vacuum the oil filter housing). Replace filter and add your oil. (About 8 Quarts) Then check the level and top up as needed. Mine usually takes 8.5 to 9 Quarts. I slowly top up until the oil is at the top mark of the dipstick. Doing this has never given me a low or high oil light.
Don't worry about how much you drain, unless the low oil light came on prior. The rest is hidden in there somewhere and is negligible to a 9 quart system.
I used to drain with the drain plug, but after the second time I gave up and went back to the vacuum method.
Why?
1) The copper washer that seals the drain plug is VERY hard to find. Dealer would probably give you the wrong one, and you will end up reusing the old one. The diesel one is a tad smaller and thicker.
2) To get to the drain plug requires a removal of the undercarriage splash shield
, AND a noise insulating blanket around the oil pan. After you remove and replace these items, clean up the spill from the drained oil that splashes off the suspension, wipe out the oil that drains into the wire harness under there, and realize that you still drain the same amount as the vacuum method, you will never do this again.Take care and remember to use the correct oil (Mobil1 ESP 5W40 Formula M)
10-05-2010, 09:55 PM
#6
Super Member
Also my brand new vacuum unit required a lot of pumping also, until I noticed it had a seal leak. I took the reservoir top apart, and used black silicone around the top and screw holes to seal it.
Now just a few pumps and drains by itself within 5 minutes.
Now just a few pumps and drains by itself within 5 minutes.
