Wheel bearing W164
04-17-2019, 10:57 AM
#27
Member
09-08-2019, 03:28 PM
#28
Senior Member
I replaced my Right Front bearing Jun 2015 (before this thread started) with 174,750 miles.
I just replaced by Left Front bearing Sep 2019 at 261,630 miles. (421,052 km)
My front disks Locking Screw needs a T30 (not T27, so don't ruin it with a T27), and I'm sure that the custom tool the OP fabricated would require a bigger opening for the 98 mm bearings. (I just use a Bearing Separator with my shop press.)
Regardless, the OP 2008 ML 320 CDI has done an amazing job in detailing this project!!
Another tip, I loosen and tighten the 36mm axle nut with the wheel/tire mounted and on the ground (with brake on) to keep it from turning.
And I like using a ball joint separator as the OP did as it sure beats hammering away (and bruising my knucle(s) when I miss) to separate ball joints. Sometimes, I just leave the pressure on the tool and take a break while it decides to pop loose with a 'BANG'. (Put a cushion on the floor beneath it for when the tool falls off.)
09-08-2019, 03:43 PM
#29
Senior Member
Quieting when turning to the left likely indicates that the bearing failure is on the left side (and I just changed my left bearing).
08-27-2020, 07:57 AM
#32
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2007 GL320 CDI, 2002 Jetta TDI, 1999.5 Audi A4 4.2
2008 ML 320 CDI's 2008 ML 320 CDI, the thread starter. Although I was asking for my '07 GL320, I was thinking they should be close since they're a very similar vehicle. At least, close to -where I could get a ballpark number. There are no torque specs in any bearing replacement post I have come across.
I did finally find three different outlets that provide the same torque spec and procedure (which can be used to look up both the ML and the GL):
For the ML, it looks like torque spec is a straight, whopping 490Nm (362ft-lbs)! Going to need to borrow a bigger torque wrench for that one!
For the GL, from the three outlets listed above they all agree at 260Nm (192ft-lbs), +45 degrees.
This is a huge difference. I do see that the above outlets list a differing procedure for axle-nut torque spec than the official Mercedes-Benz procedure does, too. Drivecat lists the ML front axle-nut torque procedure the same 260Nm (192ft-lbs), +45 degrees procedure as the GL, where the rear axle nut differs by 250Nm (184ft-lbs), +45 degrees (which conflicts with the official MB spec).
That's where the confusion comes in. I was wondering if anyone can clear this up, whether it be ML, or GL. I'm almost betting the GL would also list a super high (490Nm) torque spec officially from MB, but I'm thinking maybe most other repair manuals and info-outlets specify the lower torque +45 degrees because not many folks have such a mammoth torque wrench.
I did finally find three different outlets that provide the same torque spec and procedure (which can be used to look up both the ML and the GL):
- https://caissiedrive.net/abw/457377_SKF_TORQUE_GUIDE.pdf
- https://www.showmetheparts.com/timken/
- https://drivcat.com
- Here is an official shop procedure for the ML axle shaft replacement, which shows torque spec -Found on This thread.
For the ML, it looks like torque spec is a straight, whopping 490Nm (362ft-lbs)! Going to need to borrow a bigger torque wrench for that one!
For the GL, from the three outlets listed above they all agree at 260Nm (192ft-lbs), +45 degrees.
This is a huge difference. I do see that the above outlets list a differing procedure for axle-nut torque spec than the official Mercedes-Benz procedure does, too. Drivecat lists the ML front axle-nut torque procedure the same 260Nm (192ft-lbs), +45 degrees procedure as the GL, where the rear axle nut differs by 250Nm (184ft-lbs), +45 degrees (which conflicts with the official MB spec).
That's where the confusion comes in. I was wondering if anyone can clear this up, whether it be ML, or GL. I'm almost betting the GL would also list a super high (490Nm) torque spec officially from MB, but I'm thinking maybe most other repair manuals and info-outlets specify the lower torque +45 degrees because not many folks have such a mammoth torque wrench.
Last edited by 4loops; 08-27-2020 at 09:22 AM.
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chassis (08-27-2020)
08-27-2020, 02:02 PM
#33
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2017 GLE350 4MATIC
2008 ML 320 CDI's 2008 ML 320 CDI, the thread starter. Although I was asking for my '07 GL320, I was thinking they should be close since they're a very similar vehicle. At least, close to -where I could get a ballpark number. There are no torque specs in any bearing replacement post I have come across.
I did finally find three different outlets that provide the same torque spec and procedure (which can be used to look up both the ML and the GL):
For the ML, it looks like torque spec is a straight, whopping 490Nm (362ft-lbs)! Going to need to borrow a bigger torque wrench for that one!
For the GL, from the three outlets listed above they all agree at 260Nm (192ft-lbs), +45 degrees.
This is a huge difference. I do see that the above outlets list a differing procedure for axle-nut torque spec than the official Mercedes-Benz procedure does, too. Drivecat lists the ML front axle-nut torque procedure the same 260Nm (192ft-lbs), +45 degrees procedure as the GL, where the rear axle nut differs by 250Nm (184ft-lbs), +45 degrees (which conflicts with the official MB spec).
That's where the confusion comes in. I was wondering if anyone can clear this up, whether it be ML, or GL. I'm almost betting the GL would also list a super high (490Nm) torque spec officially from MB, but I'm thinking maybe most other repair manuals and info-outlets specify the lower torque +45 degrees because not many folks have such a mammoth torque wrench.
I did finally find three different outlets that provide the same torque spec and procedure (which can be used to look up both the ML and the GL):
- https://caissiedrive.net/abw/457377_SKF_TORQUE_GUIDE.pdf
- https://www.showmetheparts.com/timken/
- https://drivcat.com
- Here is an official shop procedure for the ML axle shaft replacement, which shows torque spec -Found on This thread.
For the ML, it looks like torque spec is a straight, whopping 490Nm (362ft-lbs)! Going to need to borrow a bigger torque wrench for that one!
For the GL, from the three outlets listed above they all agree at 260Nm (192ft-lbs), +45 degrees.
This is a huge difference. I do see that the above outlets list a differing procedure for axle-nut torque spec than the official Mercedes-Benz procedure does, too. Drivecat lists the ML front axle-nut torque procedure the same 260Nm (192ft-lbs), +45 degrees procedure as the GL, where the rear axle nut differs by 250Nm (184ft-lbs), +45 degrees (which conflicts with the official MB spec).
That's where the confusion comes in. I was wondering if anyone can clear this up, whether it be ML, or GL. I'm almost betting the GL would also list a super high (490Nm) torque spec officially from MB, but I'm thinking maybe most other repair manuals and info-outlets specify the lower torque +45 degrees because not many folks have such a mammoth torque wrench.
Specification BA35.30-P-1001-01G Collar nut, rear axle shaft to rear axle shaft flange, Stage 1: 250Nm, Stage 2: 45 degrees
This means torque to 250Nm, then turn the nut an additional 45 degrees.
Sorry @Maj. Dundee for jumping in!
08-27-2020, 04:28 PM
#34
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2007 GL320 CDI, 2002 Jetta TDI, 1999.5 Audi A4 4.2
Thanks chassis, great information!
What resource would I be able to find this information/specification? Do you get it through something like AllData? Mercedes dealer information? Wondering for the next time, so I can have a good source to rely on for crucial specs like this.
What resource would I be able to find this information/specification? Do you get it through something like AllData? Mercedes dealer information? Wondering for the next time, so I can have a good source to rely on for crucial specs like this.
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chassis (08-27-2020)
08-27-2020, 04:50 PM
#35
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2017 GLE350 4MATIC
Thanks chassis, great information!
What resource would I be able to find this information/specification? Do you get it through something like AllData? Mercedes dealer information? Wondering for the next time, so I can have a good source to rely on for crucial specs like this.
What resource would I be able to find this information/specification? Do you get it through something like AllData? Mercedes dealer information? Wondering for the next time, so I can have a good source to rely on for crucial specs like this.
09-13-2020, 12:51 AM
#36
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01 ML55AMG 04 ML500 03 ML350 08 ML63AMG
The right front wheel bearing on our 2008 ML 320 CDI started to whine/hum 7 months ago with 156 000 km on the clock. Over the course of the next 6 or so months, I bought 5 wheel bearings to replace the worn bearing:
Bearing No.1: 'NTN Canada' bearing ordered from Pelican Parts. The bearing was perfect after installation for about 6 weeks but when the vehicle hit a bad pothole in the road and the whine was back although much softer than the original whine.
Bearing No.2: 'NTN Canada' bearing ordered from Pelican Parts. Whine was present straight after installation but different to any of the previous whines. Drove the vehicle like this for almost 10 000 km with no change in the whine.
Bearing No.3: Ordered an SKF bearing from Pelican Parts, but received an 'NTN Canada' bearing in old SKF packaging. Bearing returned unused to Pelican Parts.
Bearing No.4: Ordered an SKF bearing through Amazon.com, but again received an 'NTN Canada' bearing in old SKF packaging. Installed the bearing and it hummed worse than bearing No.2.
Bearing No.5: Bought a wheel bearing from the Mercedes Benz dealership. Inside the MB packaging was another 'NTN Canada' bearing. Installed this bearing and it also whines although less than any of the previous bearings.
The very original bearing that the vehicle was fitted with when new, seemed to not have any markings at first glance, but after a bit of cleaning and on closer inspection, you could very faintly see a marking 'NTN Canada'.
Has anybody had the same experience? Are the after market bearings sub-standard?
(By the way, Pelican Parts has agreed to give me a credit for bearing Nos. 1 and 2.)
Bearing No.1: 'NTN Canada' bearing ordered from Pelican Parts. The bearing was perfect after installation for about 6 weeks but when the vehicle hit a bad pothole in the road and the whine was back although much softer than the original whine.
Bearing No.2: 'NTN Canada' bearing ordered from Pelican Parts. Whine was present straight after installation but different to any of the previous whines. Drove the vehicle like this for almost 10 000 km with no change in the whine.
Bearing No.3: Ordered an SKF bearing from Pelican Parts, but received an 'NTN Canada' bearing in old SKF packaging. Bearing returned unused to Pelican Parts.
Bearing No.4: Ordered an SKF bearing through Amazon.com, but again received an 'NTN Canada' bearing in old SKF packaging. Installed the bearing and it hummed worse than bearing No.2.
Bearing No.5: Bought a wheel bearing from the Mercedes Benz dealership. Inside the MB packaging was another 'NTN Canada' bearing. Installed this bearing and it also whines although less than any of the previous bearings.
The very original bearing that the vehicle was fitted with when new, seemed to not have any markings at first glance, but after a bit of cleaning and on closer inspection, you could very faintly see a marking 'NTN Canada'.
Has anybody had the same experience? Are the after market bearings sub-standard?
(By the way, Pelican Parts has agreed to give me a credit for bearing Nos. 1 and 2.)
Anyone have the info whats involved to take the diff out and info on bearings what to get, what not to get. Thanks
09-13-2020, 10:42 AM
#37
Member
Thread Starter
The NTN replacement wheel bearings
The problem turned out not to be any the new NTN replacement bearings and also not the differential or transfer case bearings. I had 1 original wheel bearing go bad and at that same time my tyres were also whining. It's a bit of a long story how I ended up replacing more than 1 wheel bearing, but rest assured that genuine NTN bearings are very good. Unfortunately I can't share any experience with replacing any of the differential and transfer case bearings because I never had to do those.
09-13-2020, 01:33 PM
#38
Junior Member
Wheel bearing experience
My beast is a 2008 ML550, purchased new. At 177,000 km, my left front bearing developed a noise. I replaced it with a SKF FW21, purchased from Rock Auto. It has been perfect since (30,000 km ago).
This Spring, I had an experience with a noise in a right front wheel/tire, which sounded like that wheel bearing had also gone. I then switched from my winter TOYO tires to my summer Michelin tires - and the noise was GONE. I had never experienced this kind of noise coming from tires before. I had a wheel alignment at the same time, and settings were off a bit, but not that much. Strange!
This Spring, I had an experience with a noise in a right front wheel/tire, which sounded like that wheel bearing had also gone. I then switched from my winter TOYO tires to my summer Michelin tires - and the noise was GONE. I had never experienced this kind of noise coming from tires before. I had a wheel alignment at the same time, and settings were off a bit, but not that much. Strange!
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2008 ML 320 CDI (09-13-2020)
09-13-2020, 09:48 PM
#39
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01 ML55AMG 04 ML500 03 ML350 08 ML63AMG
Yeah cars with age and a lot of miles have combination of few things that start making noises and vibrations. but its fun to work on them and figure out what they are.
And it comes to a fact that quality of cars went down a lot. They started to use these cheap chinese bearings that go bad even before car hits 100k miles. I had few Ml W163 cars that were over 200K miles on it, drained black diff oil out of them but it was quiet no noises. Shame for MB to use these cheap bearings that go bad so fast.
And it comes to a fact that quality of cars went down a lot. They started to use these cheap chinese bearings that go bad even before car hits 100k miles. I had few Ml W163 cars that were over 200K miles on it, drained black diff oil out of them but it was quiet no noises. Shame for MB to use these cheap bearings that go bad so fast.
12-18-2023, 09:29 PM
#40
Junior Member
Well here we are again. After replacing the one bearing at 177,000 km (110,000 mi.), now they BOTH need replacing at 258,000 km (160,000 mi.).
What is it with our front wheel bearings? They look so stout yet don't last worth crap. Oh well, I can do the job blindfolded now!
By the way, for the high torque nuts, I bought a "torque multiplier" from Princess Auto here in Canada. All you need to do is connect a 1/2" torque wrench to it, set to spec torque divided by 3.33. For instance, if torque spec is 250 ft. lbs., set the torque wrench to 250/3.33 = 75 ft. lbs. You will need a 3/4" female to 1/2" male adapter if you want to use your 1/2" drive sockets.
What is it with our front wheel bearings? They look so stout yet don't last worth crap. Oh well, I can do the job blindfolded now!
By the way, for the high torque nuts, I bought a "torque multiplier" from Princess Auto here in Canada. All you need to do is connect a 1/2" torque wrench to it, set to spec torque divided by 3.33. For instance, if torque spec is 250 ft. lbs., set the torque wrench to 250/3.33 = 75 ft. lbs. You will need a 3/4" female to 1/2" male adapter if you want to use your 1/2" drive sockets.
Last edited by RussG; 12-18-2023 at 09:49 PM. Reason: More information
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Joshinator99 (12-18-2023)
