andrewpaul

Hi my ML loses power has awful pickup and has become a pain to drive.

​​​​​​My Indy thought the orange pipe from the breather to the turbo was leaking and losing pressure to the intake. Changed but no difference.

The scan has the following errors which have my Indy confused.

2359 Check system ' Current Charge pressure and control'. Too stored low boost pressure

0110 Check component Current B17/8 (Charge and air temperature stored sensor). The signal voltage is too high.

​​​​​​2616-2 Check component Stored B60 (Exhaust back pressure sensor). Control variation - The exhaust back pressure is too low.

Any help pointing in the right direction will be really appreciated.

​​​​​Thanks,

Andrew

Plutoe

He is confused because he does not understand the MB diesel engine. The faults are very straight forward-----find another more knowledgeable mechanic.

andrewpaul

Hi appreciate you reply.

My challenge is that where I am there are a limited number of Merc Indies. Will take me a month to get a booking.

Any suggestions on where I can start looking myself would really help.

Cheers,

Andrew

CLK Group

I would take a look at the air filters - should be replaced every 20,000 miles as they are undersized for this engine. Need to be very clean. Also, when was the fuel filter last changed? Mercedes recommends every 20,000 miles - I do at every 15,000.

andrewpaul

So did my air and diesel filter as recommended even though they were recently changed.
Test drive and no go same situation as above.

So start checking all the sensors. Unplugging the connectors spraying some contact cleaner and re-plugging back.
Still no go.

Had a basic Bluetooth obd with Torque on my phone started looking at RAW data.
Noticed intake air temp was -45 degrees. Now am in NZ which is in winter season but we don't get anywhere close to that.
So googled location of the sensor and after searching for a bit found the sensor and it had no cable plugged into it.
Cable was hanging loose cleaned and plugged in and we are in action.

Pickup and power back. Cleared fault codes and CEL is gone.
​​​​
Car still has 2 problems.

​​​- morning start and drive and the car lurches like a manual being driven by a learner. As soon as the engine is warn drives like normal.
- lose power uphill only. Restart the engine and am back in action

No CEL
Looked at the forums and talk of a DPS - Differential Pressure Sensor but strangely my car does not have one. At least not in the location mentioned.
There is a loom cable near the drive shaft which is cable tied but no sensor?
Are there versions of the W164 ML320 without a DPS?

Mine is a 2006. ViN WDC1641222A090912
Any ideas guys?
Thanks.
​​​

Maj. Dundee

Which codes returned after clearing them?

andrewpaul

L

Maj. Dundee

When the problem occurs, do not turn eng. off, but turn the key to pos. #2, and read codes.

andrewpaul

Will do and get back.

Maj. Dundee

A better idea is to hook up the scanner first and then wait for the problem.

andrewpaul

3 Errors

​​​​​​- P0299 Turbo Underboost
- Exhaust Back Pressure Low
- 2 Faulty Glow Plugs

Maj. Dundee

Did the CEL come on when these codes appeared?

What cyl. # were the glow plugs faulty?

Maj. Dundee

I'm trying to get the DATA card info for your veh., but it is rejecting the number. Please recheck the entire number and repost if different.

andrewpaul

Double checked the VIN and it is correct.

just tracked it on:
http://carinfo.kiev.ua/cars/vin/mercedes/vin_check

The glow plugs were not 2 but 3 faulty cyl 1,2 and 5.
All replaced less than 6 months ago with Bosch units. Made sure they matched my car which has a 4.4 volt glow system.

Thanks

Maj. Dundee

This is the part number you should have gotten, 001 159 71 01.

Have you removed the plugs to see what they look like?

andrewpaul

Have not removed the plugs as yet.
Have lost a 4th plug today. Took ages to start. Car used to fire up run at really low revs then stall. Took me a dozen start-stalls to finally get started.

​​​​​​Same part number as you list. 4.4 volt units.

Worrying thing is bought a set of 6 Bosch plugs here in NZ incl. delivery for the equivalent of US$85. This looks cheap compared to what I see online in the US and none of our parts in NZ are cheap. Fakes?

​Screwed up further this evening filled gas by mistake. Have not started the engine and parked at the gas station to sort out in the morning. Any tips? Saw some youtube videos where they disconnect the tank supply to the diesel filter link an extended pipe going to a jerry can and keep cycling the ignition every time the pump stops.
Can one siphon out of the fuel filler end or is there a stop?

Having a spate of bad luck with my poor ML.

Rockarolla

Oh AndrewPaul I just had to chime in and say stay strong. I was going through a really awful time in my life and just when I thought nothing else could go wrong I filled up my 320 CDi with gas, left the gas station and heard a bunch of horrible noises. I was so upset.

Anyways good luck - I'm not an expert on cars but it's gotta be glow plugs, I had my glow plug controller replaced as my mechanic said the original ones they install are prone to rusting and sit run under the front windshield - i had starting issues but not power issues like you.

Good luck!

andrewpaul

Thanks Rockarolla appreciate the words of support.

andrewpaul

Maj. Dundee the Glow Plug part number you mention 001 159 71 01 are these steel or ceramic plugs ? I see a huge difference in plug prices and am confused. The Merc ones are around $75 each (Pelican) whilst the Bosch ones are $85 for a set of 6 (Amazon).

Have read a few responses here about glow plugs failing within a few months and am wondering if the cause can be steel plugs instead of ceramic ones or visa versa ?

Any other reasons ? Had repaired my glow plug relay in the past may take it apart to see if its failed again.

Maj. Dundee

According to your vin #, the engine # is 40754412 which calls for steel glow plugs.

andrewpaul

Awesome thanks Man.Dundee will go through the glow plugs diagnosis on Tuesday and figure out what needs replacement.

Meanwhile for the exhaust backpressure error should I order a Exhaust Backpressure Sensor or can these be cleaned?

Maj. Dundee

I'm not a Diesel owner, but you can try to clean it, but if doing so causes a problem, then you had better have easy access to a new one, especially living in NZ.

andrewpaul

Hi Guys Update.

Petrol Cleared out of tank (took going to 3 workshops and 4 working days)
Car was a challenge to start post clearing the tanks. Thought this was a combination of faulty glow plugs and residual petrol in the fuel system. Got started finally with loads of squirts of start spray. Chatter from the injectors which I presume will go away with time as the residual petrol clears out.

​​​Used to start with low revs and cut out or start at low revs keep going until we accelerated would then cut out. Thinking its faulty glow as we are into winter in NZ.

Glow Plug Check:
Took off the glow plug module and checked the plugs with a multimeter using instructions from an amazing youtube video. Look for Glow Plug Diag and Repair on YouTube, Jeep/Chrysler use the OM642 engine in a few variants. Only part to look out for in the video is that the glow plug resistance is 0.2-0.4 ohms on a warm engine but between 1 ohm and 1.4 ohms on a cold engine. These were the values that were true for me.
​
​​​​​​Faulty glow module established and replaced glow circuit is now all fine.

But still no start. Lots of starts and engine cutting out as above.

Just as a trial unplugged the exhaust Back Pressure Sensor cable and the car started immediately.
FYI this is the sensor towards the back of the turbo between the turbo and EGR mounted vertically with the plug on top.

A pain to take off needs a long 24mm socket but can't get the socket and ratchet in place together. Finally used the socket with a big tongue and groove plier and got the sensor off and cleaned with some brake clean.

Will report back if this sorts my starting issues.

Can someone please explain this sensors role? Have checked that the sensor still works through the OBD live data and therefore does not throw up a check engine light unless unplugged.

Still turbo underboost happening uphill. An engine restart fixes the issue till next time. Going to tackle this next.
Air entry side of the turbo seems clean and the rotor feels smooth to turn with no play. Actuator kicks in when I step on the accelerator. Presuming it's jammed vanes or an intermittent actuator. Any help / tips on this front will be appreciated.

Have seen a spray online to clean the turbo called Revive. Anyone had any experience using this or any other turbo cleaner?
​​
​​​​Thanks for all the help and support.

Ronin Miller

Dear Sirs, your kind advice is kindly appreciated.

I own a GL350 bluetec 2012 diesel with 150 thousand Km onboard. We have replaced the inter-cooler radiator due to an accident and one intercooler hose connected to the throttle valve.
The faults accuring now are the B60 Internal fault in the Back presure sensor (actual and B28/8 differentila pressure sometimes)

We have replaced the DPF even though the old one had good values, checked the Turbo which seemed to be perfectly working, the turbo module is also working fine. Cleaned the EGR which was also working fine. We are going crasy with this car..

the car idles with low back presure about 650 while specified range is (700-2000) and jumps to 3000 or to 4600 values at boost. The boost reaches up to 3000 rpm and never more.

your kind advice is kindly appreciated

can somebody advice pls