CDI om642 air filter change notes
06-28-2017, 11:02 AM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
CDI om642 air filter change notes
Hi
Just changed air filters on my ml320cdi with the om642 engine, some tips for RHD and other sides:
1) MB didn't do up the rear bolts on the filter housings because they are hard to reach.
2) you need to unbolt power steering reservoir to get LHS filter out. Finicky
3) getting the push in fittings to seat at the bottom of air filter housings is a pain. Try putting your hand down front and feeling to get front one
4) do not drop the intake y piece. These are farking expensive
5) rear bolts on air filter housing are captive
6) I did not need to re-learn the computer or got any codes. replace filters and done.
7) the y piece is fragile, but does seem ok to glue up with polyurethane. Temporarily.
8) MAF sensors have a clip on both sides of the plug
Just changed air filters on my ml320cdi with the om642 engine, some tips for RHD and other sides:
1) MB didn't do up the rear bolts on the filter housings because they are hard to reach.
2) you need to unbolt power steering reservoir to get LHS filter out. Finicky
3) getting the push in fittings to seat at the bottom of air filter housings is a pain. Try putting your hand down front and feeling to get front one
4) do not drop the intake y piece. These are farking expensive
5) rear bolts on air filter housing are captive
6) I did not need to re-learn the computer or got any codes. replace filters and done.
7) the y piece is fragile, but does seem ok to glue up with polyurethane. Temporarily.
8) MAF sensors have a clip on both sides of the plug
06-30-2017, 04:29 PM
#2
I want to share my air filter tips as well. Im no pro but ive removed mine 6-7 times already over 7 years of ownership.
1) You do not need to remove the Y-pipe. Leaving it in place saves you the pain of having a turbo-ypipe leak. The only time i remove this is when i have to replace the fuel filter or replace any of the pesky seals. This also prevents damage to the ypipe rubber ends.
2) You do not need to remove/touch the power steering. You are just asking for trouble messing with that. The P/S pump can leak in so many ways - its just not worth it.
3) You need to remove both firewall / insulations (4 bolts in all). This will allow you to pull the air cleaner housings away from the y-pipe and straight up without touching the P/S pump. It sounds crazy but yeah - i learned this the hard way.
4) Dont forget to unplug the connectors before you pull the air filter housings (duh)
5) Forget about replacing the filters with the housings in place - its not worth the trouble. Yes, i agree the hardest part is getting to reinstall the housing in the correct position. A mirror and flashlight helps.
6) expect to spend 1 hr minimum on the entire job
7) try not to let any of the 4 bolts fall when reinstalling the firewall insulation. Use towels to catch them if it falls.
8) I also dont bother with relearning the ECU. It will eventually detect the new environment.
9) If you have to remove the Y-pipe for whatever reason - install it first before the air filter housings. Make sure the turbo-ypipe seal does not leak ($20). I cannot stress this enough. After the ypipe is set - then install the air filter housings (bottom grommets first) then slide the uppers into the ypipe. its the only way to ensure the rubber ends of the ypipe mates with the air filter housings properly.
10) Make sure the electrical connectors do not get buried behind the air filter. It might be easier to connect that first before attempting to reinstall the air filter to the ypipe.
Back in 2015, the dealer replaced my ypipe with a newer version coz they said it kept leaking. It cost $600 including labor. Kinda pricey but it fixed my leaking problem forever. They both look the same but the orange seals are different. The newer one held the seals to the y-pipe better than the old one. The mechanics said - you cannot buy the MAF sensors separately so keep the old ypipe just in case the new one breaks.
1) You do not need to remove the Y-pipe. Leaving it in place saves you the pain of having a turbo-ypipe leak. The only time i remove this is when i have to replace the fuel filter or replace any of the pesky seals. This also prevents damage to the ypipe rubber ends.
2) You do not need to remove/touch the power steering. You are just asking for trouble messing with that. The P/S pump can leak in so many ways - its just not worth it.
3) You need to remove both firewall / insulations (4 bolts in all). This will allow you to pull the air cleaner housings away from the y-pipe and straight up without touching the P/S pump. It sounds crazy but yeah - i learned this the hard way.
4) Dont forget to unplug the connectors before you pull the air filter housings (duh)
5) Forget about replacing the filters with the housings in place - its not worth the trouble. Yes, i agree the hardest part is getting to reinstall the housing in the correct position. A mirror and flashlight helps.
6) expect to spend 1 hr minimum on the entire job
7) try not to let any of the 4 bolts fall when reinstalling the firewall insulation. Use towels to catch them if it falls.
8) I also dont bother with relearning the ECU. It will eventually detect the new environment.
9) If you have to remove the Y-pipe for whatever reason - install it first before the air filter housings. Make sure the turbo-ypipe seal does not leak ($20). I cannot stress this enough. After the ypipe is set - then install the air filter housings (bottom grommets first) then slide the uppers into the ypipe. its the only way to ensure the rubber ends of the ypipe mates with the air filter housings properly.
10) Make sure the electrical connectors do not get buried behind the air filter. It might be easier to connect that first before attempting to reinstall the air filter to the ypipe.
Back in 2015, the dealer replaced my ypipe with a newer version coz they said it kept leaking. It cost $600 including labor. Kinda pricey but it fixed my leaking problem forever. They both look the same but the orange seals are different. The newer one held the seals to the y-pipe better than the old one. The mechanics said - you cannot buy the MAF sensors separately so keep the old ypipe just in case the new one breaks.
