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Has anyone tried to place 20 x 10 wheels on their ML? I just purchased a 2009 ML550 (Super Clean!!!) and wanted to put some wheels on it and saw a wheel I visually like but rushed to order them online to learn that they are 20 x 10 all around and not staggered having the smaller 20 x 8.5 for the fronts. I have no clue what this will look like if it'll fit or what it might do to the drive. And if I were to keep them and I'm sure it's a personal taste... what size wheel should I put on them. I have a pretty low profile on a CLK but don't want anything to low that would bend the rim. But I don't want so much side wall that it'd look weird being deep dish. Any advice with photos that might help me with this wheel setup decision I need to make?
Last edited by Rjosep01; Sep 20, 2017 at 03:30 PM.
Has anyone tried to place 20 x 10 wheels on their ML? I just purchased a 2009 ML550 (Super Clean!!!) and wanted to put some wheels on it and saw a wheel I visually like but rushed to order them online to learn that they are 20 x 10 all around and not staggered having the smaller 20 x 8.5 for the fronts. I have no clue what this will look like if it'll fit or what it might do to the drive. And if I were to keep them and I'm sure it's a personal taste... what size wheel should I put on them. I have a pretty low profile on a CLK but don't want anything to low that would bend the rim. But I don't want so much side wall that it'd look weird being deep dish. Any advice with photos that might help me with this wheel setup decision I need to make?
I have the same car as you. Love my ML550. Here in Germany you'd fail inspection for that and they would force you to remove them and replace them with the correct ones. And if you're caught driving with them anyway, a stiff fine.
I'm running 20x9.5 with no issues with 275/45R20 tires.
I even put a 15mm spacer on the back for a more staggered flush fender look.
Just got mine and went to shopping!!! Clearly too excited to stop breathe and think first. Not only did I get 20x10 wheels all around, I also ordered 275/30/20 tires... did I mention I live in PA and drive to NJ & NY... pothole central!
I don't want them so low that I loose complete comfortable drive but don't want a large jeep like sidewall either.
Just got mine and went to shopping!!! Clearly too excited to stop breathe and think first. Not only did I get 20x10 wheels all around, I also ordered 275/30/20 tires... did I mention I live in PA and drive to NJ & NY... pothole central!
I don't want them so low that I loose complete comfortable drive but don't want a large jeep like sidewall either.
I was told a 265/45/20 would be the best setup.
eek. Don't know man. That profile is low. Also will show more wheel gap.
Honestly I use 275/45r20 in the summer and 265/45r20 in the winter.
With the summer wheel being 1 inch wider the profile height of the tire looks the same cause even though its a wider tire the side walls are stretched with no bulging like on my winter set on a 8.5" rim.
eek. Don't know man. That profile is low. Also will show more wheel gap.
Honestly I use 275/45r20 in the summer and 265/45r20 in the winter.
With the summer wheel being 1 inch wider the profile height of the tire looks the same cause even though its a wider tire the side walls are stretched with no bulging like on my winter set on a 8.5" rim.
well I haven't received the tires yet due circa 9/29 but I do have a set of 265/45/20 in a shopping cart. Wanted to see just how low for myself. But every once of me is telling me I will have to return the 30 series profile.
Do you have any photos of your set ups that I can get an idea from?
Just got mine and went to shopping!!! Clearly too excited to stop breathe and think first. Not only did I get 20x10 wheels all around, I also ordered 275/30/20 tires... did I mention I live in PA and drive to NJ & NY... pothole central!
I don't want them so low that I loose complete comfortable drive but don't want a large jeep like sidewall either.
I was told a 265/45/20 would be the best setup.
It seems you already purchased your tires, but for what it's worth, I ride on 295/40/R20 tires on 20x10 wheels. Couldn't tell the difference in ride quality from FL streets to MA streets. Obviously, a pothole is a pothole, so nothing you can really do about that. All I know is that in the years I've run this setup, I've never blown a tire or bent a rim on one.
It seems you already purchased your tires, but for what it's worth, I ride on 295/40/R20 tires on 20x10 wheels. Couldn't tell the difference in ride quality from FL streets to MA streets. Obviously, a pothole is a pothole, so nothing you can really do about that. All I know is that in the years I've run this setup, I've never blown a tire or bent a rim on one.
Good luck with your ML ventures!
wow 295/40/20 that sounds so much wider... is it??? I would assume if you go down a ratio in sidewall you can go up in width??? You aren't having any issues turning or rubbing? Would you mind showing me a pic of your setup? I actually love the idea of an aggressive stance. Just haven't got a clue what to do... everything I bought can be returned so I haven't fully committed to a look yet. So thanks guys for the input!
Very nice!!!! So out of the cart goes the 265/45/20 and in goes a set of wheels 275/45/20! Still haven't committed to a stance but the truck goes for tints today!
wow 295/40/20 that sounds so much wider... is it??? I would assume if you go down a ratio in sidewall you can go up in width??? You aren't having any issues turning or rubbing? Would you mind showing me a pic of your setup? I actually love the idea of an aggressive stance. Just haven't got a clue what to do... everything I bought can be returned so I haven't fully committed to a look yet. So thanks guys for the input!
There are no turning or rubbing issues on my non-airmatic setup, even after lowering the vehicle.
I was advised by the Vossen team and the authorized dealer I went to for the install that 295/40/R20 is the setup I need to fit 20x10 tires comfortably on an SUV.
My winter tire setup is the original 255/55/R18 OEM wheel, otherwise, you're skiing on the snow and not driving on the road.
See below a chart of the two sizes.
The two specs are super close. I wanted as little speedometer variance as possible
After lowering the car, I aligned it to run a -1.5 camber in the front and -2.0 in the rear, which tucks the top end of the tire to the fender line perfectly.
If you have original spec alignment numbers you may see it stick out of the top fender about 3mm running the 295.
I'll see if I can find some pics showing the stance in one of my albums when it sits on the ground. I only found an install pic for now.
He sends them via USPS Priority and handles the transaction through PayPal
I got mine in 2 days.
Btw, $195 is a fair price for these, as they feel and are made of really high-grade materials and considering that one new tire for me costs way more than $195 it's totally worth it.
He sends them via USPS Priority and handles the transaction through PayPal
I got mine in 2 days.
Btw, $195 is a fair price for these, as they feel and are made of really high-grade materials and considering that one new tire for me costs way more than $195 it's totally worth it.
So I got the 275/45/20 tires and went to put everything on the vehicle but they said the lug nuts were a tad too long. Had to get spacers. They won’t have them until tomorrow. Caught a glimpse and it doesn’t look bad at all. Hard to tell what the wheel gap might be because I only saw it elevated.
I asked to get an alignment but now you guys are talking about lowering options??? I understand it may be a personal choice but help me out guys... does lowering the ML help in looks, performance or both? And what’s the anticipated cost to do it?
For the W164/X164, W166/X166,W251 Front Toe (directional) adjustment is all that is available OEM (new car industry's best kept secret).
No camber or Caster!
CAMBER - Allows to actually "change tire contact angles" to resolve costly, premature edge tire wear, improving traction/understeer/oversteer
CASTER - Correctly resolves steering pull, increases steering response. With Better turn in and high speed directional control. Along with improved anti dive/lift under brake and acceleration
No above Camber and Caster adjustment is OK if maintained and driven at showroom height. But the reality of day to day commuting encountering high cambered roads or altered height through load carrying or lowering. Fitting wide profile tires. Curb knocks.... Camber and Caster - full adjustment capability is essential.
We saw the need therefore to re-instate from the early 90's precise/full adjustment capability - TO FIX IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME.
THE K-MAC PATENTED DESIGN FRONT KIT is PRECISE SINGLE WRENCH ADJUSTMENT - accurately on car (under load) direct on alignment rack. Resolving the costly premature inner edge wear even if the SUV has been lowered up to 50mm.
Extra feature (SUV's) is that the front kit at the same time replaces the 4 highest wearing bushings. Especially the lower control arm inner rear which prematurely fail - and are expensive to replace. These K-MAC bushes have twice the load bearing area and are Caster adjustable.
Rear kit replaces the 4 lower arm/highest wearing bushings and provides precise Camber and Toe adjustment doubling the existing rear adjustment range.
Front Camber and Caster kit #504016M $595
Rear Camber and Toe kit #504026K $480
Delivery one kit $30 (front and rear $50). PayPal, Visa or MasterCard.
Last edited by K-Mac; Oct 6, 2017 at 11:54 PM.
Reason: Picture edit
So I got the 275/45/20 tires and went to put everything on the vehicle but they said the lug nuts were a tad too long. Had to get spacers. They won’t have them until tomorrow. Caught a glimpse and it doesn’t look bad at all. Hard to tell what the wheel gap might be because I only saw it elevated.
I asked to get an alignment but now you guys are talking about lowering options??? I understand it may be a personal choice but help me out guys... does lowering the ML help in looks, performance or both? And what’s the anticipated cost to do it?
We just jumped into that because the other member saw the Adjustable Rear Camber Arms in my sig.
Lowering is entirely a personal preference and choice. People will have opinions about it but just go for the look and performance needs that suits you best.
Personally, I went with the Eibach and Bilstein set up. It is perfect for my needs. It lowered the car a little over 1.4" all the way around after it settled and fixed some of that excess fender gap (looks) while also making the car stiffer and roll less in turns (performance). Even on the Boston roads, this set up isn't back shattering. It is sports car oriented though, so gliding over bumps will not be as soft as before. It is entirely up to you if you want to pursue this path.
The shop I go to, the install cost around $2.2K (shocks, springs, top mounts, alignment, camber arm install). Took about 5h total. It is a bit of work as you remove interior panels, the front axle, and lower control arms to get it installed correctly, but as long as you go to a quality shop there should be no issues. I've heard the "horror stories" but haven't found that to be the case on mine at all. I'm as happy as one can be.
So I got the 275/45/20 tires and went to put everything on the vehicle but they said the lug nuts were a tad too long. Had to get spacers. They won’t have them until tomorrow. Caught a glimpse and it doesn’t look bad at all. Hard to tell what the wheel gap might be because I only saw it elevated.
I asked to get an alignment but now you guys are talking about lowering options??? I understand it may be a personal choice but help me out guys... does lowering the ML help in looks, performance or both? And what’s the anticipated cost to do it?
I agree with SunnyT. Its a personal preference. I believe the ML has to much wheel gap. I love how mine looks about 1.5" lowered now and how my rims sit flush with the fender lines.
Also I believe in sport mode the ML is so much better now in cornering. Its stiffer no doubt. But all I have to do is press the button and I'm in comfort mode and it feels like I never lowered it when you are in need for smooth ride.
I agree with SunnyT. Its a personal preference. I believe the ML has to much wheel gap. I love how mine looks about 1.5" lowered now and how my rims sit flush with the fender lines.
Also I believe in sport mode the ML is so much better now in cornering. Its stiffer no doubt. But all I have to do is press the button and I'm in comfort mode and it feels like I never lowered it when you are in need for smooth ride.
Thanks gentlemen! You’ve given me much to think about. I ended up going to a after market wheel shop to see if they would have hubcentric spacers that would do the job. Don’t recall if I mentioned that apart of the problem is that I have the AMG package which has the larger front brake calipers. This is why that wheel wouldn’t turn. The first shop never even saw the front wheel hitting the calipers. Well long story short... I walked out buying a set of 22s and still ended up with a low profile tire. 255/30/22. They were on display with the tire on and a Mercedes center cap... he put it on and I was visually dupped! I’ll admit I’m impulsive but I love it. He put extra air in the tires to help... they’re at 40 psi instead of the recommended 35 psi. Driving home from NJ to PA 1.5 hrs. It was as comfortable as though I hadn’t changed a thing. I still have the wheels pictured above and now unmounted the 275/45/20 tires. I still very much like the look of them and finally found that a 5x112 20mm hubcentric spacer with 45mm 1.5 extended bolts will work for my 20x10 wheels. Would have been the much cheaper way to go but I honestly don’t regret any of it... at least not today... give ma aWeek
Last edited by Rjosep01; Oct 15, 2017 at 08:32 PM.
Wheels look good!
Risky business with those low profiles right there, remembering the pothole remark earlier. Time to be vigilant about the road conditions!
What was your previous tire spec (OEM xxx/xx/Rxx)?
Would be interesting to compare the two specs of the tire.
Wheels look good!
Risky business with those low profiles right there, remembering the pothole remark earlier. Time to be vigilant about the road conditions!
What was your previous tire spec (OEM xxx/xx/Rxx)?
Would be interesting to compare the two specs of the tire.
That's a really small tire compared to OEM Spec. 265/45R20 255/30R22 DifferenceSidewall Height:4.69''3.01''-1.68''Section Width:10.43''10.04''-0.39''Tire Height:29.38''28.02''-1.36''Tire Circum:92.3''88.03''-4.27''Rev. / Mile:686.46719.7533.29
That's a really small tire compared to OEM Spec. 265/45R20 255/30R22 DifferenceSidewall Height:4.69''3.01''-1.68''Section Width:10.43''10.04''-0.39''Tire Height:29.38''28.02''-1.36''Tire Circum:92.3''88.03''-4.27''Rev. / Mile:686.46719.7533.29
Wow. That is a lot smaller. I ran it through the tire size calculator to afford some visuals and speedometer differences.
Definitely a significant change in both size and speed. Personally, out of my comfort zone, but if the OP is happy, that’s all that matters.
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