2011 ML550 no start EIS problem
01-18-2018, 10:19 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
2011 ML550 no start EIS problem
Hi there.
My newly acquired 2011 ML 550 began not starting in the summer when the interior was hot. This winter it would not start when cold. Here is the recap.
1. Purchased with 45K miles 2/17.
2. Main key began to not showing either none, all or just some of the ignition lights. So, no orange and red lights on the dash, so no crank. Until these lights come on there is no crank. Same for both keys. Both would start it, but not always.
3. Put key in and out. Turn on and off several times. Eventually all of the dash lights would go off. Still no start.
4. Wait 10-30 seconds with the key in the ignition. Try again. Lights would come on. Then starts.
5. In the summer if the interior of the car was above 75 it would not start. Open the doors and let the interior cool down.
6. This winter it became a problem in that the interior was cold. I had no way to warm it up! Really did not want to have to get stranded for longer than the 20 minutes it was taking to get it to eventually start.
The fix:
7. Go to the dealer. The dealer is the only place aside from an authorized by MB independent whom can purchase a new EIS AND the Orange programmed Key. So the dealer orders an "Orange" programmed key from TX. It takes two days to get here. They have the EIS in stock. The dealer returns the orange key back to TX. A do it yourself er cannot fix this because they will not sell you the EIS, nor allow the use of an orange key. Some dealers used to years ago it seems from reading the forums. Not today at least in CA.
8. Cost. $530 for the EIS, tax $44. The program key comes from TX and has to be ordered by the dealer. Labor $535. Total 1,109. The quote was about $1,200 to $1500 from most dealers in the SF Bay Area.
So, I researched the forums for the problem. It is the Electronic Ignition Switch which goes bad. I hear that they have cold solder joints on some of these units. Makes sense because of the temperature changes with it working or not working outside of a specific range. Also heard that it can happen anywhere from when new up to about 50K miles. See my signature. I'm at 54K miles and change. I did see a UTube video where a MB mechanic removed the center whole stereo console. Then simply reached in and removed the EIS. Plugged in a new one. Put in the orange key. Turned it on. Then off. Then put in the stock key. It then fired right up. The EIS takes a special tool to remove if you do not want to mess up the dash. They are on Ebay. The normal removal procedure is through the steering column by removing the steering collar. Looks much harder.
Thanks forum members for your posts. They were helpful. Hope this helps someone else. Make sure both of you keys have the same problem to eliminate the keys. That is also the dealer process.
My newly acquired 2011 ML 550 began not starting in the summer when the interior was hot. This winter it would not start when cold. Here is the recap.
1. Purchased with 45K miles 2/17.
2. Main key began to not showing either none, all or just some of the ignition lights. So, no orange and red lights on the dash, so no crank. Until these lights come on there is no crank. Same for both keys. Both would start it, but not always.
3. Put key in and out. Turn on and off several times. Eventually all of the dash lights would go off. Still no start.
4. Wait 10-30 seconds with the key in the ignition. Try again. Lights would come on. Then starts.
5. In the summer if the interior of the car was above 75 it would not start. Open the doors and let the interior cool down.
6. This winter it became a problem in that the interior was cold. I had no way to warm it up! Really did not want to have to get stranded for longer than the 20 minutes it was taking to get it to eventually start.
The fix:
7. Go to the dealer. The dealer is the only place aside from an authorized by MB independent whom can purchase a new EIS AND the Orange programmed Key. So the dealer orders an "Orange" programmed key from TX. It takes two days to get here. They have the EIS in stock. The dealer returns the orange key back to TX. A do it yourself er cannot fix this because they will not sell you the EIS, nor allow the use of an orange key. Some dealers used to years ago it seems from reading the forums. Not today at least in CA.
8. Cost. $530 for the EIS, tax $44. The program key comes from TX and has to be ordered by the dealer. Labor $535. Total 1,109. The quote was about $1,200 to $1500 from most dealers in the SF Bay Area.
So, I researched the forums for the problem. It is the Electronic Ignition Switch which goes bad. I hear that they have cold solder joints on some of these units. Makes sense because of the temperature changes with it working or not working outside of a specific range. Also heard that it can happen anywhere from when new up to about 50K miles. See my signature. I'm at 54K miles and change. I did see a UTube video where a MB mechanic removed the center whole stereo console. Then simply reached in and removed the EIS. Plugged in a new one. Put in the orange key. Turned it on. Then off. Then put in the stock key. It then fired right up. The EIS takes a special tool to remove if you do not want to mess up the dash. They are on Ebay. The normal removal procedure is through the steering column by removing the steering collar. Looks much harder.
Thanks forum members for your posts. They were helpful. Hope this helps someone else. Make sure both of you keys have the same problem to eliminate the keys. That is also the dealer process.
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Carcheologist (05-16-2018)
