ancient

Hello all,

New to the thread, and looking to see if anyone has done an AC Compressor Replacement on a 2007 ML320CDI before. The clutch on mine has failed.

Thank you in advance.

TC

Maj. Dundee

Here are the instructions.

Buy a Denso compressor which is original equipment for M/B.

mefferso

Wish i had that technical document posted above when I did mine. Here's my DIY thread I wrote after I changed mine: https://mbworld.org/forums/gl-class-...ement-diy.html

SQLGuy

I am doing this job on a 2006 ML350. I can touch the rear bolt, but I can't see any way to get a socket on it. The steering gear and frame is in the way in the back. With a short extension on, the socket to too long to fit in alongside from the front, and without the extension the socket it too short.

Which soundproofing is meant to be removed?

Thanks,
Paul

chassis

If you can touch the bolt, you should be able to get a wrench on it. Can you get a ring spanner/box end wrench on it?

SQLGuy

I don't have any E-Torx wrenches, just sockets.

I was considering removing the power steering pump to have more access, but none of the write-ups I've seen call for that. I was also wondering whether the access is different on a CDI than a gas engine, since the engines themselves are somewhat different in length.

SQLGuy

Worked on it a bit more today. With about two feet of extensions and a U joint I was able to remove the two Allen bolts that hold the refrigerant lines in place. I removed the one line which gave me a bit more access, but I still have no idea how to remove that rear bolt.

If I put a 1.5" extension on my E12 socket, then my air ratchet won't quite reach the bolt because the rear of the compressor blocks it. If I put a 3" extension on, then there's not enough room to fit between the frame and the bolt head. A regular hand ratchet is too long with the 3" as well. I have a thin, long, ratchet with a swivel head on it, but I cannot get the socket on the bolt head with that. The mechanics involved in getting it into place don't allow the application of any torque, and trying to switch grips then lets the socket slip off the bolt head.

I think I'll see if I can get a deep E12 socket tomorrow. Maybe that will work on the air ratchet.

Edit: I also ordered an E12 Gearwrench. There isn't much room to swing a wrench there... the engine mount is not far behind the compressor, but we'll see.

E55Greasemonkey

E12 swivel socket with a few short extensions linked together to give you a little wiggle room.

SQLGuy

OK. Got it! I picked up the deep E Torx sockets, but they didn't fit either. I then figured out that with the 1.5" extension and the short socket on the thin, flex head, ratchet, if I pre-aligned the socket to match the orientation of the bolt teeth, I could get that socket on there and loosen the bolt a couple of turns.... but I couldn't remove it that way. There wasn't enough room to back the bolt out all the way without pinning the ratchet against the steering gear.

So, I put one of the front bolts back in (I recommend doing the bottom front bolt last, as it's easy to get to and to get out, and that way it supports the weight of the compressor while you're removing the back bolt), and pried the ratchet off the back bolt. Then I was able to install the E12 short socket on a 1/4 to 3/8 adapter on my 1/4" air ratchet and get that down in there to finish removing the rear bolt.

This isn't as bad a Toureg V10 alternator, but, blech!