[ANSWER]
Tengaver, it is actually grams/sec. not gal/sec so the formula to convert lb/min to g/s is 1 kg/2.2lb X 1000 grams/kg. X 1 min./60 sec. or just simply multify your lb/min to 7.576 g/s so your 2.4l/min will be 18.18 g/s and 10lb /min will be 75.76 g/s and at heavy load will be 136.36 g/s. The result is not bad I think nothing wrong with your MAF. It happened to me 2 times also in the past it was white smoke from the exhaust but it disappear when stop engine and start again. Yes, the old sensor from Ebay did not solve the problem too. Also the brand new MAF and air filter did not work too. Lets do a research on how to do this value adaptation or find a cheaper Euro shop that can do this job cheaper than MD dealer. Sorry, I mistakenly hit the unsubscribed button that is why I lost most of your threads. do you know how to retrieved it back?

 

OK, I see my old threads now.

 

Tengraver, if you said this P0101 has been in your suv for over 2 years now then it is OK for us to just leave it as long as the gas mileage and engine performance will not be affected. The only think I am worry is that since this is considered an emission control malfunction it may eventually damage my catalytic converter but in your case you have no more CC so you will be good. But if this case happen to me then I would consider deleting the Catalytic Converter too same procedure as you did. I hope our province here will not imposed strict regulation like in California.

 

I am ok with leaving the CEL on with one caveat: you can't tell when ANOTHER cel has been set. As sophisticated as these systems are it seems there would be several check engine lights with different colors or something to signify urgency - but that would help the diy'er, which is something NONE of the manufactures seem willing to do these days...especially MB. So, one check engine light for virtually thousands of possible codes... sheesh! That's just stupid! My solution has been to install a cheap bluetooth OBD2 device in the slot and have my wife (this is her daily driver) monitor the CELS from time to time on her phone. Total cost - about $12. My earlier comment about stopping the active DPF regen didn't seem to work this time - I'm about to go out and try it again. Do you have any idea if the lambda readings would be elevated during DPF regen? Or any other data I might be able to see on my icarsoft MBII? I'd like to be able to see if it is in regen mode and be able to stop it easily. That is my most urgent problem at the moment.

 

Tengraver, I have not tried to measure voltage from this Lambda sensor during regen but I know during regen the temperature inside the DPF must be high probably 600 deg C in order to allow forcing the soot build up to move out. The only thing I know is that as engine warm up and @ 2500 rpm, a good O2 sensor should read close to 1 volt DC (engine hot). There are good you tube videos you can watch to guide you on how to remove and test air/fuel sensor. By the way, this sensor is not easy to find in our suv. It is on the passenger side exhaust pipe from turbocharger hiding between the engine firewall and the engine. By the way, is your cheap OBD2 has the capability to erase code with live data streaming too? Still thinking if I will invest on this icarsoft MB II upgraded version for over CAD $220 or may be just trade in this vehicle for slightly used electric car or hybrid suv. The only problem is the lower trade in value due to this fault code. If I have this new icarsoft I can only see the same fault code which is probably the same as yours: 153000 and P0101 but will not aid me to do the value adaftation. I like this suv on its physical appearance and also driving on highway but really painful on our wallet to maintain.

 

Tengraver, have to tried unhooking the battery overnight and see if this P0101 will disappear. But I think you will need to reset the radio, windows and sunroof so you will have to refer to your manual to see the radio code and reset procedures for the radio, windows and sunroof. I have not done this for fear of screwing up the window and sunroof setting.

 

I was afraid to unhook the battery too, but when I did it was no big deal. The windows and sunroof all acted normal upon reconnect. It was unhooked for many hours each time I welded on it and I never had any issues with reteaching anything.....but also, it didn't correct any codes. The transmission shift points might have been a little different for a while but that wasn't a big deal either. My cheap bluetooth transmitter and Torque Lite app are capable of reading and clearing codes, but not much else. Not sure if the Pro version would be much better, but I'd bet that a really good bluetooth transmitter and a really good app would probably be capable of doing anything the icarsoft MBII can do. It seems like only going up to the most expensive diagnostic tools can do the adaptation resets, and allow modification of settings, etc. I've looked at the Autel tools and just never pulled the trigger to buy one for fear that it wouldn't do what I need it to do anyway. My wife is still driving "old smoky" and it's getting terrible mileage now. I'm about to send off the ECU to Malone to get all this crap deleted and see what I've got left to deal with after that. It's $700 but I probably would have spent $7000 by now if I would have taken it in every time there was an issue. I think I'm going to get my old 1985 Chevy 6.5l turbodiesel van with a 5 speed back on the road and put all this "modern" crap that doesn't work behind me.....now all I've got to do is convince her that it's a better vehicle! Good luck with that, right?!! But hey, it used to get 30mpg and pull my camper up the mountains with ease....plus it's a classic! No CELs, no electronics, totally mechanical injection system and they run forever. I'll be EMP proof again!!

 

Tengraver, I asked a local ECU programming shop here in Calgary, Alberta and they will charge me CAD $75 just to to do value adaptation. I can try this but the shop tech do not give warranty if the fault code will not come back in the future. They can also program the ECU to delete existing EGR, DPF & SCR for CAD $1,600 but I will have to do all the rest of the mechanical works (removing ERG, DPF and SCR including installing new exhaust pipe and EGR blind)
What's the mileage of your suv? mine is 147,320 km. I think in your case since your DPF and SCR is already been mechanically deleted then you just need a re-program or tune up of your ECU to delete those fault codes and have a better mileage.

 

Aside from P0101, how many or what other fault codes do you have at the moment? In my case I only have this single code P0101 from my Autel OBD.