So I believe my M272 Engine falls within the affected Balanced shaft bad range., but
Now, that said...my VIN is https://mbworld.org/forums/vindecode...BB86E56A063663
I looked up the Engine # and it is 272967 30 194780
From what I read...the M272 engines higher than 468993 are improved.
Thing is...outside of some electrical issues / gremlins I have faced...the car doesn't drive bad. I don't hear any odd noises coming from the engine. It has 182,000 miles on it. My understanding is many people had the wear and tear of those affected engines pre 130,000 mile mark.
We had an idling issue and stuttering a couple years ago..but we found a couple bad spark plugs...and that seemed to address the issue.
Is it possible while my engine falls within the affected range, and the check engine light is on due to a stretched timing chain?
Probably 3 years ago, my father did the crankshaft / camshaft sensor check where you turn the crank to 305 degrees and see if the items align within the holes, and he claims they were centered. I may try this again to verify though.
Now, that said...my VIN is https://mbworld.org/forums/vindecode...BB86E56A063663
I looked up the Engine # and it is 272967 30 194780
From what I read...the M272 engines higher than 468993 are improved.
Thing is...outside of some electrical issues / gremlins I have faced...the car doesn't drive bad. I don't hear any odd noises coming from the engine. It has 182,000 miles on it. My understanding is many people had the wear and tear of those affected engines pre 130,000 mile mark.
We had an idling issue and stuttering a couple years ago..but we found a couple bad spark plugs...and that seemed to address the issue.
Is it possible while my engine falls within the affected range, and the check engine light is on due to a stretched timing chain?
Probably 3 years ago, my father did the crankshaft / camshaft sensor check where you turn the crank to 305 degrees and see if the items align within the holes, and he claims they were centered. I may try this again to verify though.
I just finished buttoning up the engine and transmission after replacing the balance shaft and tomorrow I'm going to place the engine and transmission back into the car.
If you plan on doing the job yourself there is a .rar file in the forums which has all the documents you'll need and I'll be more than happy to help you along the way with any other supporting documents.
Last edited by Automotive_buff; Jun 18, 2019 at 10:30 PM.
I just finished buttoning up the engine and transmission after replacing the balance shaft and tomorrow I'm going to place the engine and transmission back into the car.
If you plan on doing the job yourself there is a .rar file in the forums which has all the documents you'll need and I'll be more than happy to help you along the way with any other supporting documents.
my vin is WDDGF8BB8AF418241
For the past year, I have been experiencing timing issues at low speed and rpm. I replaced on the right side magnets (twice) and the sensors (once). I never touched the left (driver) side as they were not leaking. I just got done checking the camshaft marks and they are all good/aligned.
So, what would be the next step you guys would look for?
I have a family owned workshop and always changed my oil with high quality fluids every 7,500 since 69k and the trans fluid (four times) rear diff (three times) and the front diff (technically not a diff) thru the drain plug at 103k (once). I have never seen any metal in the oil filter.
0522=P2006 Tumble Flap intake manifold short circuit to ground of sensor lines, shafts stick in the actuated position
1200=P0017 Constant adjustment exhaust RIGHT cylinder bank 1 retarded
0060=P0015 continuous adjustment camshaft RIGHT, incorrect position of exhaust camshaft
0272=P0012 continuous camshaft adjustment RIGHT; incorrect position of the intake camshaft
Last edited by VegasWhoa; Jan 4, 2022 at 04:53 PM.




Solution: new intake manifold, check PCV / crankshaft breather system.
With P0015/17 on bank 1, I would swap solenoid sensors with bank 2, clear existing codes, and check if error persists or switches to bank 2. If it does replace failed part.
If error remains on bank 1,
Check connectors for oil on both sides: harness and sensors.
Nothing yet, I would check ECU connector to harness for oil.
Nothing yet, clean connector with electric contact and verify there is proper contact when connected. Recall they are old now, poor contact?
Nothing yet, I think the problem may be internal, i.e camshaft adjusters need to be check visually. Means opening, and look in detail. Hopefully not that
Some ideas to go through, good luck
https://www.mercedesmedic.com/merced...ll-sensor-cam/
Last edited by JCM_MB; Jan 4, 2022 at 10:25 PM.
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Solution: new intake manifold, check PCV / crankshaft breather system.
With P0015/17 on bank 1, I would swap solenoid sensors with bank 2, clear existing codes, and check if error persists or switches to bank 2. If it does replace failed part.
If error remains on bank 1,
Check connectors for oil on both sides: harness and sensors.
Nothing yet, I would check ECU connector to harness for oil.
Nothing yet, clean connector with electric contact and verify there is proper contact when connected. Recall they are old now, poor contact?
Nothing yet, I think the problem may be internal, i.e camshaft adjusters need to be check visually. Means opening, and look in detail. Hopefully not that
Some ideas to go through, good luck
https://www.mercedesmedic.com/merced...ll-sensor-cam/
the other three, has been the issue.
Sensors (Bremi made in Germany instead of Bosch made in China) are brand new going on 2 years, solenoids same thing. Oil I ll double check but they were finally dry with his last set of solenoids back in Q1 2020. I didn’t check he ECU harness.
I ll try switching the two even though replaced new at the same time. What I never did, was replace the left side. I only replaced the side when the codes would appear. Maybe I ll switch the sensors from that side.
Stay Tuned
Last edited by VegasWhoa; Jan 4, 2022 at 11:02 PM.
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“The check engine light doesn’t come on though but only when I start it up and drive a short distance”
You meant if you were on a short drive, the CEL won’t come; but on longer drive, CEL came on? Recently, while working on my garage, moving my car out and in of the garage in short drive (minutes or less), I noticed something very interesting: the CEL light from the day before turned off by itself!
I believe every time we started the engine, CEL light up by default. Then ECU checks for existing condition. If no Current code is found, then CEL will be shut off. That’s why my 3 minute-long drive turned off the CEL by itself (and has not came back on yet days later)! Do you have similar experience or observe similar behaviors?



