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How to Access Front SAM on 2011 ML350 Blutec

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Old Jul 23, 2019 | 02:39 AM
  #1  
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2011 ML 350 Blutec AWD VIN4JGBB2FB9BA715102. California. 112,000 miles.
How to Access Front SAM on 2011 ML350 Blutec

Hi Guys,
My right front fog light is not working. Checked the bulb. It's good .....No +12 on the black wire. I would like to check the supply end of that wire at the front SAM, plugA, Term6. Can anyone provide me with complete instructions on how to access the front SAM? My VIN is 4JGBB2FB9BA715102. Also, is that black wire continuous from the SAM to to the fog light or is there a plug somewhere, I didn't see?
I also scanned it with an iCarsoft MBII....says bad bulb or open wire.
Thanks in advance

Last edited by KF6KK; Jul 23, 2019 at 02:49 AM. Reason: Addition
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Old Jul 23, 2019 | 05:08 AM
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Please UPDATE YOUR PROFILE in USER CP to include the year of your ML.
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Old Jul 23, 2019 | 05:17 AM
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You don't say how you checked the bulb, but while it was out, why didn't you check the BLACK wire for 12v and the BROWN wire for GROUND?
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Old Jul 23, 2019 | 06:02 AM
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I checked black to ground (brown)......0 volts.....and then to vehicle ground.....checked continuity between body ground and brown wire.... it's good...so the problem is in the black wire somewhere between the foglight and front SAM. I swapped the left and right bulbs to test.... bulb is ok.....I didn't put it in my profile. Electrical Engineer here, so I know how to check out the wiring. It appears I need to remove the pass seat and pillar trim to get to the area the SAM is in. I'm just not sure of the exact procedure to access the SAM mechanically, to verify the output and check the black wire for continuity. Just bought this car a couple of months ago and would like to iron out this issue. Is this black wire continuous between the foglight and the SAM? On the wiring diagram I'm looking at, it appears to be. Thanks for the help.
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Old Jul 23, 2019 | 07:56 AM
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The black wire goes through two connectors but you are better off checking at the front SAM. The "A" conn. wire #6 is for the black wire.

You just have to remove the 4 bolts at the seat and fold the seat to the Inst. Panel, then locate conn. A to test the wire
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Last edited by Maj. Dundee; Jul 23, 2019 at 07:58 AM.
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Old Jul 23, 2019 | 04:59 PM
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Thanks Major,
Too hot to work today. Will follow up in a few days, when I check this out.
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Old Jul 23, 2019 | 05:02 PM
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2011 ML 350 Blutec AWD VIN4JGBB2FB9BA715102. California. 112,000 miles.
Major,
Can you send me a data card on this vehicle. Mercedes dealer says he can't.
Thanks Again!
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Old Jul 24, 2019 | 03:06 AM
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Here it is.
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Old Jul 24, 2019 | 04:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Maj. Dundee
Here it is.
Thanks so much!
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Old Jul 28, 2019 | 01:33 AM
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Here's the update on my saga with the front SAM:
SAM is ok
Wiring harness between front SAM and engine compartment connector is ok
Wiring harness between front left and right side fog lights is ok
Main wiring harness between front left fog light area and engine compartment is OPEN.

I'm thinking I have 2 options:

If someone could ID the harness somewhere near the firewall, under the hood, I could cut the black wire and see which side has the open circuit so I can bypass it or I could
cut the wire in pass compartment and splice new black wire and try to pass it thru the firewall and route it directly to the right foglight.
Anyone have any ideas.

Maj Dundee,
What do you think/suggest?

Thanks again
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Old Jul 28, 2019 | 01:52 AM
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You were supposed to check the BLACK wire at the SAM and you did not give results.

I also supplied you with three diagrams, one of which is a connector near the firewall.
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Old Jul 28, 2019 | 02:42 AM
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2011 ML 350 Blutec AWD VIN4JGBB2FB9BA715102. California. 112,000 miles.
Front SAM A6=12V with foglight switch on ....0V with switch off.
Disconnected gnd from batt. Unplugged A6 and toned wire to front firewall plug A1-50 . unplugged 50 pin connector... next checked continuity between 50 pin connector and A6 on the SAM plug.....0 ohms.
Next I checked continuity between x26/32 E.....and engine side of 50 pin plug....open

Checked continuity between E5/2 A and X26/32E....0 ohms

Hope that helps.
Thanks
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Old Jul 28, 2019 | 03:34 AM
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I do not understand why you went though all of this.

If the front SAM was showing 12v, why didn't you go to X25/2 and checked for voltage, then to X26/32?
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Old Jul 28, 2019 | 04:13 AM
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Because I didn't know if I could pull the 50 pin x25/2 plug apart with voltage on the SAM. I have already checked x26/32...D to E. 0volts....C to D...+12volts, with the fog light switch on. The problem is somewhere on the engine compartment harness... possibly the back side of X25/2. Is it accessable?
Thanks
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Old Jul 28, 2019 | 06:25 AM
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You don't have to pull the conn., just test it while everything is live. Locate the X25/2 conn. under the dash by removing the cover.

There are two possibilities depending on different models, conn. 1 in position A1 or conn. 3 #50. Simply find the BLACK wire and probe the metal contact at the wire to test voltage.

Please just post results of the voltage test and eliminate all of the mumbo jumbo.
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Old Jul 28, 2019 | 06:41 AM
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And remember, every time you remove the battery or remove a connector, there is a great possibility that codes will be stored.
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Old Jul 29, 2019 | 02:02 AM
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2011 ML 350 Blutec AWD VIN4JGBB2FB9BA715102. California. 112,000 miles.
Originally Posted by Maj. Dundee
You don't have to pull the conn., just test it while everything is live. Locate the X25/2 conn. under the dash by removing the cover.

There are two possibilities depending on different models, conn. 1 in position A1 or conn. 3 #50. Simply find the BLACK wire and probe the metal contact at the wire to test voltage.

Please just post results of the voltage test and eliminate all of the mumbo jumbo.
X25/2 , A1... Interior cabin side +12volts.. can't check engine side of this plug. I don't know how to access it.
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Old Jul 29, 2019 | 11:33 AM
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By removing the front bumper.
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Old Jul 29, 2019 | 06:04 PM
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X26/32 is mounted to the backside of the bumper, which I was able to release from its bracket.. X26/32 term D to E....0 Volts
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Old Jul 29, 2019 | 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by KF6KK
X26/32 is mounted to the backside of the bumper, which I was able to release from its bracket.. X26/32 term D to E....0 Volts

What has to be done is up to you now.
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Old Jul 29, 2019 | 11:59 PM
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Maj. Dundee,
Thanks for all your help. I pulled the cabin air filter housing completely out of the car, where I could see where the actual wires were going. They were routed in back of the engine and down the drivers side to the front bumper. I injected a signal at the front SAM connector and was able to follow the signal to just behind the drivers side headlight. I opened the harness and spliced in a 2 foot bypass to the bumper plug in back of the drivers side foglight. The black wire was broken inside the harness tape. All fixed now... everything works perfectly.. Thanks again. I would have never found the plugs without your help!
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Old Jul 30, 2019 | 12:18 AM
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You are welcome.
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Old Aug 6, 2019 | 01:32 AM
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Follow Up Pic

In the photo you can see my temporary wrap of the wiring harness where I had to bypass the open wire.
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Old Aug 6, 2019 | 01:38 AM
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Actual Splice and Bypass
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