Direct selector not working - vehicle not in position P
#1
Direct selector not working - vehicle not in position P
Hi there
When entering car I get a “vehicle not in position P” message on dash - however it was put in Park.
The car starts but then the direct selector on the steering column will not move the transmission into Drive or Reverse.
Releasing the parking break does nothing and the car doesn’t roll.
Essentially I can drive or move the vehicle.
Any ideas here? Is there a way to manually override and select drive?
i did just get the car registered and the mechanic replaced a rear left ABS sensor due to a warning light. I’m thinking we may need to replace both sides at once perhaps?
There are no other warning lights on the dash and the car is parked on a slight incline if that may be causing something to kick in.
Any thoughts or insights would be greatly appreciated.
#3
#4
The sole purpose of the auxiliary battery is to run the shifter.
connecting and disconnecting might be fun, but if yours has never been replaced, it’s probably time.
connecting and disconnecting might be fun, but if yours has never been replaced, it’s probably time.
#5
I tracked down a new genuine aux battery and replaced it. Was a real pain to do as the big battery has to come out first and it’s all under the drivers seat!
Anyway, have checked all the terminals are connected but now the engine does not start. The power is on in the car, radio starts and electric chairs move etc but the engine now does not start up.
Any ideas as to what may be wrong.
I did have a mechanic connect the OBD scanner pre replacing the aux battery and the only error said there was a problem communicating with the aux battery so I assumed that was the issue but the new one doesn’t seem to have fixed anything unfortunately.
Im thinking I may just have to get it towed to the mechanic shop but any ideas greatly appreciated.
Cheers
#6
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,107
Likes: 754
From: Bronx, N.Y.
2002 ML 320 & 2006 ML500
Check fuse #14 on the right side fuse box. Pull off door seal first.
Did you have the key in the ign. while removing the battery?
Last edited by Maj. Dundee; 09-07-2019 at 04:28 AM.
#7
Thanks for the quick reply.
Fuse 14 looks fine when I took it out.
The key was not in ignition when I replaced the battery. Is that a problem?
im thinking the main battery may need replacing too perhaps?
thanks for your help
Fuse 14 looks fine when I took it out.
The key was not in ignition when I replaced the battery. Is that a problem?
im thinking the main battery may need replacing too perhaps?
thanks for your help
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#8
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,107
Likes: 754
From: Bronx, N.Y.
2002 ML 320 & 2006 ML500
Yes, if the key is left in the ign. while removing or installing the battery, it could damage the key.
When removing a battery the negative cable is removed first and installed last.
Are you sure the cables on the main battery were tightened correctly?
Check the battery voltage on the battery post, then the voltage on the clamp and see if they are the same.
When removing a battery the negative cable is removed first and installed last.
Are you sure the cables on the main battery were tightened correctly?
Check the battery voltage on the battery post, then the voltage on the clamp and see if they are the same.
#9
Yes, if the key is left in the ign. while removing or installing the battery, it could damage the key.
When removing a battery the negative cable is removed first and installed last.
Are you sure the cables on the main battery were tightened correctly?
Check the battery voltage on the battery post, then the voltage on the clamp and see if they are the same.
When removing a battery the negative cable is removed first and installed last.
Are you sure the cables on the main battery were tightened correctly?
Check the battery voltage on the battery post, then the voltage on the clamp and see if they are the same.
Main battery is definitely connected as we have power.
I don’t have a multi metre to test voltage but will get this checked as thinking it must be a battery issue.
Many thanks again
#12
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,107
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From: Bronx, N.Y.
2002 ML 320 & 2006 ML500
Because other components work does not mean that there is enough voltage to turn the starter.
You originally stated that the truck started but you couldn't get it out of gear. Remove both battery cables and tighten them again.
You originally stated that the truck started but you couldn't get it out of gear. Remove both battery cables and tighten them again.
#14
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 384
Likes: 21
From: Queensalnd Australia
2006 ML320 CDI (2 of) and 2008 GL320
you could check the voltage via the dash
I think by memory it is put key in pos 2, go through the display option (steering wheel controls) until you get the mileage showing then press the r button on the cluster 3 times - it should show the voltage (provided my memory is right and that the glitch you have will let you get to that stage
do you get any message up on the screen? do you have 2 keys? was it the same key that wouldnt let you shift but allowed you to start?
I think by memory it is put key in pos 2, go through the display option (steering wheel controls) until you get the mileage showing then press the r button on the cluster 3 times - it should show the voltage (provided my memory is right and that the glitch you have will let you get to that stage
do you get any message up on the screen? do you have 2 keys? was it the same key that wouldnt let you shift but allowed you to start?
#15
you could check the voltage via the dash
I think by memory it is put key in pos 2, go through the display option (steering wheel controls) until you get the mileage showing then press the r button on the cluster 3 times - it should show the voltage (provided my memory is right and that the glitch you have will let you get to that stage
do you get any message up on the screen? do you have 2 keys? was it the same key that wouldnt let you shift but allowed you to start?
I think by memory it is put key in pos 2, go through the display option (steering wheel controls) until you get the mileage showing then press the r button on the cluster 3 times - it should show the voltage (provided my memory is right and that the glitch you have will let you get to that stage
do you get any message up on the screen? do you have 2 keys? was it the same key that wouldnt let you shift but allowed you to start?
Hi everyone, thanks again for your help here.
Unfortunately the car is still not starting.
I had a mechanic come and look at the battery voltage. It was at 9V and we tried jump starting the car with a jumper pack and a similar size battery on my friends SUV but no joy.
I have just bought and installed a new battery at the suggestion of the mechanic. All connectors are on tight and I took off negative then positive and back again with negative last.
No change however, turning the key with foot on brake pedal does not start the engine. The display all works and I can hear the electrics when turning the key fully but no engine noise or starting.
Im at a bit of a loss now as to the next step here.
Interestingly, before I replaced the battery, I had to open the car doors manually and the electric seats stopped working so it seems like power is being drained while the car is sitting there.
Any ideas as to what else to try would be greatly appreciated. Otherwise I’m guessing I will need to tow the car somewhere to get it looked at more thoroughly.
Thanks again for your help!
#17
He didn’t check the auxiliary as it was new.
Not sure what a DVOM is but the mechanic plugged in an OBD scanner that looked legit and it threw up a heap of faults. Almost too many that he believed it may not be reading properly with the battery low voltage.
When the first mechanic checked the auxiliary battery and disconnected it be also checked the car with an OBD scanner which looked the same. There was only a message that came up about aux battery communication but no other faults.
It seems strange that the car stopped starting just after the original auxiliary was disconnected and then hasn’t come back on since replacing both aux and main batteries.
Seems quite odd but I’m no mechanic!!
thanks
#18
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,107
Likes: 754
From: Bronx, N.Y.
2002 ML 320 & 2006 ML500
You simply have to Google, what is a DVOM.
https://www.google.com/search?source...31.CHGxmrPdcyo
Of course you didn't ask for those codes, why didn't you? You must own your own scanner to check for codes.
https://www.google.com/search?source...31.CHGxmrPdcyo
Of course you didn't ask for those codes, why didn't you? You must own your own scanner to check for codes.
#20
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,107
Likes: 754
From: Bronx, N.Y.
2002 ML 320 & 2006 ML500
Check fuse #111 in the Eng. Compartment fuse box.
Also remove the connectors to the Aux. Batt. and see if they are properly inserted.
Last edited by Maj. Dundee; 09-16-2019 at 07:24 AM.
#21
I disconnected and reconnected the auxiliary to ensure the connectors are inserted properly.
Interestingly the “vehicle is not in position P” now comes up again on the display but no other changes and engine still doesn’t start. Have tried both key and the push button.
Also, my car is registered as a 2005 model. Not sure why you think it’s a 2006 but all the paperwork and plates refer to 2005.
Thanks
#22
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,107
Likes: 754
From: Bronx, N.Y.
2002 ML 320 & 2006 ML500
I
Also, my car is registered as a 2005 model. Not sure why you think it’s a 2006 but all the paperwork and plates refer to 2005.
The ML was produced after July 2005 which makes it a 2006.
Change the year please.
Also, my car is registered as a 2005 model. Not sure why you think it’s a 2006 but all the paperwork and plates refer to 2005.
The ML was produced after July 2005 which makes it a 2006.
Change the year please.
#24
Update - My new Aurtel code reader arrived and there are three error or event codes appearing. Two clear when they’re erased and rescanned but one transmission related one remains:
”Component Y3/8s1 (Selection Range Sensor (VGS)) is not learned”
seems like a new part required for this? Does anyone have experience with this to comfirm?
The other two codes are
1. “The supply voltage to the control unit is too low (undervoltage”
2. The component or signal line to the component B48 (front passenger seat occupied and child seat recognition) has open circuit.
many thanks in advance
”Component Y3/8s1 (Selection Range Sensor (VGS)) is not learned”
seems like a new part required for this? Does anyone have experience with this to comfirm?
The other two codes are
1. “The supply voltage to the control unit is too low (undervoltage”
2. The component or signal line to the component B48 (front passenger seat occupied and child seat recognition) has open circuit.
many thanks in advance