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Just doing oil cooler seal replacement on my 2006 ML320 and trying to decide whether to do the swirl flap delete.
Has anyone done one and if so any issues at all please ? Would anyone happen to have the proper procedure for doing it including resister spec ?
I've seen some where the holes have been welded up but wondering if there's an alternative way of doing it (such as JB Weld) or is the pressure inside not suitable ?
2017 AMG C 43 (W205); 2019 E 300 (W213); 2008 ML 320 CDI (W164)
4.7k Ohm resister installed in the swirl flap motor connector
Some photos.
When you have the swirl motor and inlet manifolds out, tie all the swirl flaps tightly down
in the fully open position.
Location of connector on the swirl flap motor.
Connector to the swirl flap motor.
4.7 k Ohm = 4700 Ohm. The resisters in the blue packet can handle 1 Watt power whereas the resisters in the red packet can handle 0.5 Watt power. The connecting leads (wires) on the blue pack resisters are thicker than those of the red packet. Both would work.
4.7k Ohm resister in place.
4.7k Ohm resister installed to the 2 centre contacts. Contact numbers 2 and 3.
Tape up after installing the resister.
Installing the 4.7k Ohm resistor will solve the problem of a faulty swirl flap motor causing fuse No. 104 to blow and putting the vehicle into limp mode. Installing the resistor bypasses the motor. The swirl flap motor holds the swirl flaps in the fully open position by default.
2017 AMG C 43 (W205); 2019 E 300 (W213); 2008 ML 320 CDI (W164)
The swirl flaps can be locked in the open position. All the wear and tear is usually in the linkage that can be removed. Worn linkage can't be replaced unless new inlet manifolds are purchased that come with new linkage.
Swirl flaps locked in the open position. All linkage between swirl flaps and swirl flap motor removed. Swirl flaps locked in the open position. All linkage between swirl flaps and swirl flap motor removed. Swirl flaps locked in the open position. All linkage between swirl flaps and swirl flap motor removed.
Hi. I have. What a chore that was but all done and finished now and no leaks (that I can see anyway). A fair achievement given I did it in a public car park out in the elements ! Asked a few few mechanics and they didn't want to take the job on so rather than pay Mercedes a fortune thought I'd give it a go myself. No error codes on reassembly too so that was a bonus. Quietly proud of the job !
2017 AMG C 43 (W205); 2019 E 300 (W213); 2008 ML 320 CDI (W164)
That's a major achievement! Congratulations! I did mine in the garage at home. It took me a period of 9 days because I had to complete it after hours.
So how did you deal with the EGR and swirl flaps then? Did you have a build-up of a mixture of oil and soot paste in the intake manifolds? A lot of the time I spent on this project was to clean parts, inside and out. I didn't want to buy new intake manifolds and a new swirl flap motor. My swirl flap motor was faulty, causing fuse No.104 to blow immediately every time upon replacement of the fuse and also putting the vehicle into limp mode.
2017 AMG C 43 (W205); 2019 E 300 (W213); 2008 ML 320 CDI (W164)
Originally Posted by Awaken-minds
After adding the resistor would that also take care of the check engine light. my main problem is code p2007.
thanks
Installing the resistor completely solved the limp mode, check engine light and all my error codes (P0245, P0489, P0111, P1111, P0100, P1100 and P2009) that would appear to have been related to the swirl flap motor malfunction in my case. If your code and check engine light are related only to a malfunctioning swirl flap motor in your case, I would say installing the resistor will solve both issues.
The resistor is inexpensive (CAD $3.00 for a pack of 6) and the installation is easy and completely reversible. It is very well worth the effort and minute cost to try out! The biggest effort in this is going out to buy a less than $1 resistor!
Before I did my fix with the resistor, I had the vehicle checked out by the MB agents for this problem and on their invoice to me it described the test they ran: "... FAULT CODE 2530-002 CHECK COMPONENT M55 (INLET PORT SHUTOFF MOTOR)."
Installing the resistor completely solved the limp mode, check engine light and all my error codes (P0245, P0489, P0111, P1111, P0100, P1100 and P2009) that would appear to have been related to the swirl flap motor malfunction in my case. If your code and check engine light are related only to a malfunctioning swirl flap motor in your case, I would say installing the resistor will solve both issues.
The resistor is inexpensive (CAD $3.00 for a pack of 6) and the installation is easy and completely reversible. It is very well worth the effort and minute cost to try out! The biggest effort in this is going out to buy a less than $1 resistor!
Before I did my fix with the resistor, I had the vehicle checked out by the MB agents for this problem and on their invoice to me it described the test they ran: "... FAULT CODE 2530-002 CHECK COMPONENT M55 (INLET PORT SHUTOFF MOTOR)."
Hello,
Recently suffered with a number of issues with my c320 cdi on 144k atm. I had a few codes come up (P2009 P0489 P0245 AND B2AAA) this caused my car to go in to limp mode. I've taken this in to the mercedes specialist and they have sorted the issue. Apparently i needed my shut off motor replacing which had blown a fuse causing limp mode. This cost me about £480.
They also noticed that my inlet manifold had been removed completely and to replace it would take 7 hours labour plus 400+200 for the parts! Yikes. I wanted to know if this is worth doing? Should I leave it or get it done? The technician mentioned performance and economy. Why did the previous owner take this out? Would there be a big performance difference if I got this done?
2017 AMG C 43 (W205); 2019 E 300 (W213); 2008 ML 320 CDI (W164)
Originally Posted by Gooner1989
Hello,
Recently suffered with a number of issues with my c320 cdi on 144k atm. I had a few codes come up (P2009 P0489 P0245 AND B2AAA) this caused my car to go in to limp mode. I've taken this in to the mercedes specialist and they have sorted the issue. Apparently i needed my shut off motor replacing which had blown a fuse causing limp mode. This cost me about £480.
They also noticed that my inlet manifold had been removed completely and to replace it would take 7 hours labour plus 400+200 for the parts! Yikes. I wanted to know if this is worth doing? Should I leave it or get it done? The technician mentioned performance and economy. Why did the previous owner take this out? Would there be a big performance difference if I got this done?
Any advice would appreciated.
Why does the inlet manifold need to be replaced just because it is noticed that it had been removed previously? Replacing the manifolds is a lot of work and if it is indeed necessary for your vehicle, it's a pity it wasn't done at the same time the swirl flap motor was being replaced. If the engine is being throttled due to manifolds that are clogged up with gunk (as a result of exhaust gas re-circulation), then yes, it would be a good idea to either remove-clean or remove-replace the inlet manifolds. If the vehicle is performing normally at the moment, I'd leave it for now.
In most cases where the manifolds have been removed it is to repair an oil leak which stems from the 1st generation (orange) oil cooler seal failing. This is a very common occurrence on these V6 diesels after around 100 000 - 150 000 km, especially on engines assembled before the introduction of the improved viton (purple) oil cooler seal.
Why does the inlet manifold need to be replaced just because it is noticed that it had been removed previously? Replacing the manifolds is a lot of work and if it is indeed necessary for your vehicle, it's a pity it wasn't done at the same time the swirl flap motor was being replaced. If the engine is being throttled due to manifolds that are clogged up with gunk (as a result of exhaust gas re-circulation), then yes, it would be a good idea to either remove-clean or remove-replace the inlet manifolds. If the vehicle is performing normally at the moment, I'd leave it for now.
In most cases where the manifolds have been removed it is to repair an oil leak which stems from the 1st generation (orange) oil cooler seal failing. This is a very common occurrence on these V6 diesels after around 100 000 - 150 000 km, especially on engines assembled before the introduction of the improved viton (purple) oil cooler seal.
Hi mate sorry got the late reply.
The guys at the garage said that the manifold arms are missing and would need replacing. That the man hours involved would be about 7 hours plus parts and VAT. There total quote was £1300 i managed to get the codes cleared but it cost me about £400 with VAT.
Do you think its worth me saving up and getting this job done.
On a separate matter the car is going back in because as I'm going through the gears the car is juddering and fails to shift unless i use the paddle shift. I think I've spent almost as much as the car cost me to buy now and I'm reaching my tethers end with it. Always going in and out of the garage.
2017 AMG C 43 (W205); 2019 E 300 (W213); 2008 ML 320 CDI (W164)
Originally Posted by Gooner1989
Hi mate sorry got the late reply.
The guys at the garage said that the manifold arms are missing and would need replacing. That the man hours involved would be about 7 hours plus parts and VAT. There total quote was £1300 i managed to get the codes cleared but it cost me about £400 with VAT.
Do you think its worth me saving up and getting this job done.
On a separate matter the car is going back in because as I'm going through the gears the car is juddering and fails to shift unless i use the paddle shift. I think I've spent almost as much as the car cost me to buy now and I'm reaching my tethers end with it. Always going in and out of the garage.
It's a little difficult to assess the situation from the limited information so far. If the manifold arms, and I presume they refer to the linkages between the swirl flap motor and the swirl flaps, are missing, what good was it to replace the swirl flap motor? Only to clear a code that was caused by a faulty motor? That's an expensive remedy if the linkages are still missing anyway. That code could easily have been fixed with a small 4.7 Ohm resister instead (see post above of 5th December 2019).
If the linkages are missing then the swirl flaps must be flapping in the wind and they could restrict airflow to every 2nd inlet port. From what I think I understand and if I were in your situation, the minimum I would do is to remove the manifolds, clean them thoroughly inside and out, clean the inlet ports on the cylinder heads as best you can, securely fix all swirl flaps on the manifolds in the fully open position, replace the oil cooler seals (only the 2 seals, not the oil cooler) while you're in there and then reinstall everything including the swirl flap motor but without the need of any swirl flap linkages. Use all new gaskets through out - there are full gasket kits available for this procedure. This is a good deal of work, the cost being much more in labour and not much in parts.
If instead you want the missing swirl flap linkages to be in place like originally, you will need new manifolds because those linkages are not sold separately. Some people report to have made their own linkages. New manifolds will significantly add to cost in parts.
I like this vehicle very much and I've had very good service out of mine. So far I've never had an issue I couldn't fix myself, but if I had to pay for diagnosis and repairs, I might have become despondent. The emissions controls imposed on vehicles have caused many more components and systems to be required especially on diesels which of course means there's more that can go wrong. My personal view is that emissions control on vehicles and elsewhere are a good thing and actually very necessary.
It's a little difficult to assess the situation from the limited information so far. If the manifold arms, and I presume they refer to the linkages between the swirl flap motor and the swirl flaps, are missing, what good was it to replace the swirl flap motor? Only to clear a code that was caused by a faulty motor? That's an expensive remedy if the linkages are still missing anyway. That code could easily have been fixed with a small 4.7 Ohm resister instead (see post above of 5th December 2019).
If the linkages are missing then the swirl flaps must be flapping in the wind and they could restrict airflow to every 2nd inlet port. From what I think I understand and if I were in your situation, the minimum I would do is to remove the manifolds, clean them thoroughly inside and out, clean the inlet ports on the cylinder heads as best you can, securely fix all swirl flaps on the manifolds in the fully open position, replace the oil cooler seals (only the 2 seals, not the oil cooler) while you're in there and then reinstall everything including the swirl flap motor but without the need of any swirl flap linkages. Use all new gaskets through out - there are full gasket kits available for this procedure. This is a good deal of work, the cost being much more in labour and not much in parts.
If instead you want the missing swirl flap linkages to be in place like originally, you will need new manifolds because those linkages are not sold separately. Some people report to have made their own linkages. New manifolds will significantly add to cost in parts.
I like this vehicle very much and I've had very good service out of mine. So far I've never had an issue I couldn't fix myself, but if I had to pay for diagnosis and repairs, I might have become despondent. The emissions controls imposed on vehicles have caused many more components and systems to be required especially on diesels which of course means there's more that can go wrong. My personal view is that emissions control on vehicles and elsewhere are a good thing and actually very necessary.
It really seems like you know your stuff. I'm a complete newb and I doubt it's a job I want to risk doing myself. Lack of time and knowledge plus I'd probably lose something important lol
I'm guessing what you said is correct; that they would need to replace the whole manifold inlet itself rather than get arms for mine so at £1300 is it worth it. For me right now. Nope. I do have an urge to just get everything sorted and enjoy the car but I know inside that something else will go wrong eventually. Such a shame. Its only on 144k miles and these engines are meant to go well in to the 200s!
Originally they said the codes were caused by a blown fuse and the shut off motor going in to the manifold. Is there a course/learning i can do so I can DIY on cars? I think I'd rather pay to do something official so then I can do little jobs on the car myself. I don't even know if its worth me keeping the car. Its great to drive and it is a stunner but the previous owners have seriously neglected looking after it.
The air con doesn't even work too as well as this transmission issue so I'm going to be forking out more £££.
It's a little difficult to assess the situation from the limited information so far. If the manifold arms, and I presume they refer to the linkages between the swirl flap motor and the swirl flaps, are missing, what good was it to replace the swirl flap motor? Only to clear a code that was caused by a faulty motor? That's an expensive remedy if the linkages are still missing anyway. That code could easily have been fixed with a small 4.7 Ohm resister instead (see post above of 5th December 2019).
If the linkages are missing then the swirl flaps must be flapping in the wind and they could restrict airflow to every 2nd inlet port. From what I think I understand and if I were in your situation, the minimum I would do is to remove the manifolds, clean them thoroughly inside and out, clean the inlet ports on the cylinder heads as best you can, securely fix all swirl flaps on the manifolds in the fully open position, replace the oil cooler seals (only the 2 seals, not the oil cooler) while you're in there and then reinstall everything including the swirl flap motor but without the need of any swirl flap linkages. Use all new gaskets through out - there are full gasket kits available for this procedure. This is a good deal of work, the cost being much more in labour and not much in parts.
If instead you want the missing swirl flap linkages to be in place like originally, you will need new manifolds because those linkages are not sold separately. Some people report to have made their own linkages. New manifolds will significantly add to cost in parts.
I like this vehicle very much and I've had very good service out of mine. So far I've never had an issue I couldn't fix myself, but if I had to pay for diagnosis and repairs, I might have become despondent. The emissions controls imposed on vehicles have caused many more components and systems to be required especially on diesels which of course means there's more that can go wrong. My personal view is that emissions control on vehicles and elsewhere are a good thing and actually very necessary.
Hi mate hope you're well.
I've got an update on my car. I've taken the car in to have the juddering looked at and the garage are adamant it is to do with the manifolds. They said that the manifold both right and left are missing. So it's not the 'arms' it's the manifolds that's missing.
The garage determined that the juddering was not due to an issue with the transmission. I had the transmission serviced in November 2019.
I've rang around a few garages. The specialist says replace the manifold which means get new ones from Mercedes with the price I originally got quoted. I spoke to another mechanic who suggested doing a remap to remove the swirl flaps manifolds from the computer of the car. Have you heard of this procedure?
I'm really not sure what to do but it is looking like I'm going to have to fork out the money to get this fixed. I've tried the resistor trick and that hasn't helped the juddering of my car. The car is also pumping a lot of black smoke at around 3k revs and hisses when i let me foot off the throttle.
Provided i do get the manifold replaced, how can I stop further issues? What do i need to do to maintain this car. I'm currently at 144k and want the engine to last well in to the 200k because I've already spent a fortune on it. A part of me thinks I should just sell the car after its fixed. What do you think?
2017 AMG C 43 (W205); 2019 E 300 (W213); 2008 ML 320 CDI (W164)
Originally Posted by Gooner1989
Hi mate hope you're well.
I've got an update on my car. I've taken the car in to have the juddering looked at and the garage are adamant it is to do with the manifolds. They said that the manifold both right and left are missing. So it's not the 'arms' it's the manifolds that's missing.
The garage determined that the juddering was not due to an issue with the transmission. I had the transmission serviced in November 2019.
I've rang around a few garages. The specialist says replace the manifold which means get new ones from Mercedes with the price I originally got quoted. I spoke to another mechanic who suggested doing a remap to remove the swirl flaps manifolds from the computer of the car. Have you heard of this procedure?
I'm really not sure what to do but it is looking like I'm going to have to fork out the money to get this fixed. I've tried the resistor trick and that hasn't helped the juddering of my car. The car is also pumping a lot of black smoke at around 3k revs and hisses when i let me foot off the throttle.
Provided i do get the manifold replaced, how can I stop further issues? What do i need to do to maintain this car. I'm currently at 144k and want the engine to last well in to the 200k because I've already spent a fortune on it. A part of me thinks I should just sell the car after its fixed. What do you think?
Any advice would be appreciated.
To be sure, missing both inlet manifolds will not cause your vehicle to shudder.
Unfortunately I don't think I can be of any further assistance.
[QUOTE=2008 ML 320 CDI;8162186]To be sure, missing both inlet manifolds will not cause your vehicle to shudder.
i believe there is a sensor next to the turbo which is called the exhaust back pressure sensor, sometimes people mistake this as the fuel pressure sensor. my car was jittering an once replaced it worked like a charm a very cheap fix go to the mrcedes dealership it should cost 50 - 70 quid you only need a 22m socket to remove it
To be sure, missing both inlet manifolds will not cause your vehicle to shudder.
i believe there is a sensor next to the turbo which is called the exhaust back pressure sensor, sometimes people mistake this as the fuel pressure sensor. my car was jittering an once replaced it worked like a charm a very cheap fix go to the mrcedes dealership it should cost 50 - 70 quid you only need a 22m socket to remove it
I got my issue sorted by getting the inlet manifolds replaced and so far no issues however the car does go in to limp mode occasionally which is resolved by turning the car engine off and then on.
I'm wondering if its a clogged up DPF. I'm wondering if I should try this swirl flap trick you by pass the manifolds also.
The swirl flaps can be locked in the open position. All the wear and tear is usually in the linkage that can be removed. Worn linkage can't be replaced unless new inlet manifolds are purchased that come with new linkage.
Swirl flaps locked in the open position. All linkage between swirl flaps and swirl flap motor removed. Swirl flaps locked in the open position. All linkage between swirl flaps and swirl flap motor removed. Swirl flaps locked in the open position. All linkage between swirl flaps and swirl flap motor removed.
Hi, I have found the linkage of the swirl flaps worn, so I'd like to remplace it. I found the replacement part.
I need to know if is possible remove the linkage and install this new. Here leave a link of the piece.
