2011 ML350 battery replacement cost $450, good or bad?
#1
Member
Thread Starter
2011 ML350 battery replacement cost $450, good or bad?
My 2011 with it's original battery looks like it's on it's last legs and needs replacing.
The indy shop told me $450, they will replace it with an OEM MB battery, he told me they need to remove the passenger seat to do this but some videos I watched just shows they need to move the passenger seat forward.
I told them to go ahead and do it since the car is in there for the service B work but wanted to get some opinions if $450 is a fair price?
Thanks!
The indy shop told me $450, they will replace it with an OEM MB battery, he told me they need to remove the passenger seat to do this but some videos I watched just shows they need to move the passenger seat forward.
I told them to go ahead and do it since the car is in there for the service B work but wanted to get some opinions if $450 is a fair price?
Thanks!
#2
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2017 GLE350 4MATIC
Probably not an unfair price. The battery is approx $150 retail, plus what looks like $300 in labor. It amounts to approximately 2 hours of labor, or thereabouts. Not completely out of the question but likely the best option if you don't DIY.
#4
Member
Thread Starter
This was about an hour job, I'll pick it up but I assume it won't be $450 now.
Last edited by azzurribaggio; 11-26-2019 at 01:58 PM.
#5
Member
Thread Starter
No dice, still $450. The battery cost $265 and there was some "prep" work needed prior to installing the battery. IMO since they already said the passenger seat didn't need to be removed it should've been 1 hour of labor tops for this, if at that. Unless their labor rates are $250/hr
Oh well at least it's done.
Oh well at least it's done.
#6
Junior Member
No dice, still $450. The battery cost $265 and there was some "prep" work needed prior to installing the battery. IMO since they already said the passenger seat didn't need to be removed it should've been 1 hour of labor tops for this, if at that. Unless their labor rates are $250/hr
Oh well at least it's done.
Oh well at least it's done.
i had our apprentice attempt it on a customers car and he went well up until the point of actually pulling the lengthy battery out. I'd say if you've done it once before it will be an hour tops to get it replaced.
#7
Senior Member
Just for reference, I did a replacement on my truck in the freezing cold winter. The car was parked outside my garage so it was really cold and I had to do it quickly. I had replaced the battery once before so knew how to do it.
Had to go back into garage quickly for a few tools once during the job, but the total job start to finish was done in under 15 mins. I would normally take about 20-25 mins to do it, but was working fast because of the cold.
An hour labour for someone who has done it before is more than generous. There is NO removal of the passenger seat if you follow MB instructions. You move the seat all the way up and all the way to the front, and can remove it no problem. If the truck is dead, a jumper pack or charger allows you enough juice to move the seat.
Had to go back into garage quickly for a few tools once during the job, but the total job start to finish was done in under 15 mins. I would normally take about 20-25 mins to do it, but was working fast because of the cold.
An hour labour for someone who has done it before is more than generous. There is NO removal of the passenger seat if you follow MB instructions. You move the seat all the way up and all the way to the front, and can remove it no problem. If the truck is dead, a jumper pack or charger allows you enough juice to move the seat.
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#10
Senior Member
For anyone planning to replace a W164 battery here are some tips:
No need to keep systems alive while disconnecting the battery. Even your memory settings in the radio remain. I think you just have to reset the window "up" positions and maybe the sunroof (after closing completely, keep holding button down for 2-3 seconds and it will reset the upper limit)
-Battery is under passenger seat. There is a dotted line cut into the carpet. If your battery has been replaced before, this will already be cut. If not, you'll have to use a utility knife and cut along the dotted line. When you get there, you'll see what I mean
-Put the passenger seat ALL the way forward and ALL the way up. If the battery is dead, you can use the jumper terminal under the hood (facing the hood it's at the left side, furthest away from the bumper. Close to the passenger mirror. Red plastic cap you can pop open. That should give you enough juice to move the seat.
-Disassemble the heating duct, it goes back together the same way. It's just plastic ductwork.
-Pull off the cover that matches your carpet color and covers the battery.
-Disconnect both terminals. Can't remember how many but there is a nut or two down at the bottom holding a plate on. This plate holds the battery down. Remove nuts and don't worry too much if you drop them as you can grab them when the battery comes out. Remove metal plate off the studs and keep it safe along with the nuts.
-Remove battery. It's HEAVY! Wear gloves because you'll skin your hand if it slips back down.
-Tip on the battery. Put a long flat metal pry bar (at least 12" long) down along the narrow side of the battery. Once you lift the battery an inch, you can get the pry bar under the battery. Now the pry bar is at an angle and you can slide the battery up the pry bar. Some people find it easier that way, but I now find it easier to just yank the battery out since I've done it a few times. Figure out what works best for you.
-I believe there is a hose coming out of the battery (vent). Remove it and make sure you don't crush it when reinstalling the new battery.. move it to the side.
-Reconnect (negative terminal LAST!)
-Tuck the terminals out of the way where they won't spring back and accidentally touch battery posts or other metal.
-Make SURE you know where your socket handle is going when you're tightening or loosening. DO NOT LET IT TOUCH METAL! Otherwise SPARKS! I'd use a short socket handle (you don't need much torque for battery terminals) and keep my hand on the end of the socket rather than holding it like you usually would. Just grip the tip of the handle with your fist so the end of the tool is now your pinky finger and not a metal socket handle.
-Reassemble and start the car. All should be good. Crack a beer and enjoy the fact that you saved a LOT of $$$$
It's really not much harder than replacing a battery in a regular car once you have done it once or twice. "under the seat" scares everyone but I have had to move harnesses, washer bottles, and lots of other stuff for underwood batteries over the years.. this one stays nice and clean and dry under the passenger seat, and it's a great location for it.
No need to keep systems alive while disconnecting the battery. Even your memory settings in the radio remain. I think you just have to reset the window "up" positions and maybe the sunroof (after closing completely, keep holding button down for 2-3 seconds and it will reset the upper limit)
-Battery is under passenger seat. There is a dotted line cut into the carpet. If your battery has been replaced before, this will already be cut. If not, you'll have to use a utility knife and cut along the dotted line. When you get there, you'll see what I mean
-Put the passenger seat ALL the way forward and ALL the way up. If the battery is dead, you can use the jumper terminal under the hood (facing the hood it's at the left side, furthest away from the bumper. Close to the passenger mirror. Red plastic cap you can pop open. That should give you enough juice to move the seat.
-Disassemble the heating duct, it goes back together the same way. It's just plastic ductwork.
-Pull off the cover that matches your carpet color and covers the battery.
-Disconnect both terminals. Can't remember how many but there is a nut or two down at the bottom holding a plate on. This plate holds the battery down. Remove nuts and don't worry too much if you drop them as you can grab them when the battery comes out. Remove metal plate off the studs and keep it safe along with the nuts.
-Remove battery. It's HEAVY! Wear gloves because you'll skin your hand if it slips back down.
-Tip on the battery. Put a long flat metal pry bar (at least 12" long) down along the narrow side of the battery. Once you lift the battery an inch, you can get the pry bar under the battery. Now the pry bar is at an angle and you can slide the battery up the pry bar. Some people find it easier that way, but I now find it easier to just yank the battery out since I've done it a few times. Figure out what works best for you.
-I believe there is a hose coming out of the battery (vent). Remove it and make sure you don't crush it when reinstalling the new battery.. move it to the side.
-Reconnect (negative terminal LAST!)
-Tuck the terminals out of the way where they won't spring back and accidentally touch battery posts or other metal.
-Make SURE you know where your socket handle is going when you're tightening or loosening. DO NOT LET IT TOUCH METAL! Otherwise SPARKS! I'd use a short socket handle (you don't need much torque for battery terminals) and keep my hand on the end of the socket rather than holding it like you usually would. Just grip the tip of the handle with your fist so the end of the tool is now your pinky finger and not a metal socket handle.
-Reassemble and start the car. All should be good. Crack a beer and enjoy the fact that you saved a LOT of $$$$
It's really not much harder than replacing a battery in a regular car once you have done it once or twice. "under the seat" scares everyone but I have had to move harnesses, washer bottles, and lots of other stuff for underwood batteries over the years.. this one stays nice and clean and dry under the passenger seat, and it's a great location for it.
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mrmotoguzzi00 (12-03-2019)
#12
Member
Thread Starter
Yup, I've accepted the fact that I basically got ***'ed over by paying $450 for this battery replacement. Next time it'll be a DIY with that Walmart battery I replaced my BMW with.