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Been pulling my hair out trying to find a part number for the blind spot radar sensors in the rear bumpers. Do you know what part number this is and if there is an alternative to the $500+USD/ $700 CDN OEM part?
I am attempting to fix a vehicle that will not drive. It broke down close to 300 miles away from my independent mechanic and of course, from the dealership. It is sitting in a lumber yard for now.
The car won't go into drive and every light is on the dash. "Drive to shop without shifting gears" along with ABS, BAS, SRS, ESP, etc.... Scanner will not connect to the ECU well actually, it has once or twice and I did clear codes but, it still won't drive. Third time this has happened. First time it sat overnight and was able to clear all codes and drive. Then 2 weeks ago, same issue. I put a new battery in (original was 9 years old) and scanner connected, cleared codes and it drove great for two weeks. So now this is the third time. I pulled th ebattery and it was nearly dead. I charged it overnight, hooked it back up and no success. It started up and I was able to clear codes but it would not shift into drive or reverse and after a few minutes, it would no longer start and all it did was beep. I pulled the fuse, locked it up and headed back home.
I've searched and searched and searched for a solution and spoke to 3 Mercedes Techs... and the car is still sitting there. Towing 300 miles on a flatdeck and repairs is out of my budget and I am thinking this will be my last Mercedes.
So, my thinking is to install a new voltage regulator. About $105 USD and should be a simple procedure.
knighton, what does this last post of yours have to do with the rear blind spot problem? A separate problem calls for the opening of new thread on that topic.
By the way here is the part number for the blind spot sensor.
I am attempting to fix a vehicle that will not drive. It broke down close to 300 miles away from my independent mechanic and of course, from the dealership. It is sitting in a lumber yard for now.
The car won't go into drive and every light is on the dash. "Drive to shop without shifting gears" along with ABS, BAS, SRS, ESP, etc.... Scanner will not connect to the ECU well actually, it has once or twice and I did clear codes but, it still won't drive. Third time this has happened. First time it sat overnight and was able to clear all codes and drive. Then 2 weeks ago, same issue. I put a new battery in (original was 9 years old) and scanner connected, cleared codes and it drove great for two weeks. So now this is the third time. I pulled th ebattery and it was nearly dead. I charged it overnight, hooked it back up and no success. It started up and I was able to clear codes but it would not shift into drive or reverse and after a few minutes, it would no longer start and all it did was beep. I pulled the fuse, locked it up and headed back home.
I've searched and searched and searched for a solution and spoke to 3 Mercedes Techs... and the car is still sitting there. Towing 300 miles on a flatdeck and repairs is out of my budget and I am thinking this will be my last Mercedes.
So, my thinking is to install a new voltage regulator. About $105 USD and should be a simple procedure.
Do you have any suggestions Maj? I am all ears.
Hi, I know this is an old thread but did you ever get this figured out? Having similar symptoms on a 2010 ML350 but the warning I got on the dash was PRESAFE INOPERABLE. Also a circuit 15 code on Xentry. Did you get any similar codes? Scanning is so slow and most times can't see ECM, transmission, ESP, and SCR modules. I'm leaning towards a faulty driver's side seatbelt buckle as SRS and Airbags are in ignition circuit and I have a buckle code... or maybe CGW or one of the many, many CAN distributors on this car... will find out over the weekend. If you solved yours please let me know how. Cheers!
Hi, I know this is an old thread but did you ever get this figured out? Having similar symptoms on a 2010 ML350 but the warning I got on the dash was PRESAFE INOPERABLE. Also a circuit 15 code on Xentry. Did you get any similar codes? Scanning is so slow and most times can't see ECM, transmission, ESP, and SCR modules. I'm leaning towards a faulty driver's side seatbelt buckle as SRS and Airbags are in ignition circuit and I have a buckle code... or maybe CGW or one of the many, many CAN distributors on this car... will find out over the weekend. If you solved yours please let me know how. Cheers!
Hi Spike,
Yes I sure did. I pulled the rear bumper and found two radar sensor modules COMPLETELY destroyed by the elements. When I pulled them from the bumper fitting, they literally disintegrated in my hands. Both modules were split open and the electronics/internals we a salty, watery mess. What was a solid was broken down into almost a paste like substance. And there was my problem. I ordered two used modules from a parts dealer in California for either $225 a piece or $225 USD for both, can't recall which. Plugged them in along with NEW radar sensors in the bumper, reinstalled them, and it has ran perfect for the past few years.
The way I diagnosed this is I unplugged connector in the rear corner of the car, near the hatch., Pulled all panels (subwoofer) and when i disconnected one of the connectors, the beeping stopped, indicating this was the voltage drain. I then followed the wiring and it lead to the rear radar sensor modules.
Not sure if I stated this but I was suffering a very traumatic brain injury at the time from late 2016 from a car accident My concussion made tying my shoes a task, not to mention trying to fix an electrical issue on a Mercedes. Even pulling the bumper was too great a task for me until 2021, so I drove for two years with the radar modules unplugged until I had the brain ability to do what needed to be done.
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