M-Class (W164) Produced 2006-2011: ML280CDI, ML320CDI, ML420CDI, ML350, ML500, ML550

ML350 2009 Liftgate Won’t close

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Old 12-16-2020 | 12:02 AM
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From: New Orleans
2010 ML550
ML350 2009 Liftgate Won’t close

Power liftgate opens perfectly every time. However, does not close consistently.

Checked the codes, and it shows both pinch sensors as having a problem. Cleared the codes, worked somewhat better, but still not closing every time. And, the codes reappeared. Sorry for the crappy pic of the codes atrached.

On YouTube saw an owner who replaced a pinch sensor on A GL. My ML appears to have a similar setup, but I can’t find any info regarding the procedure or part numbers. Pic of that owners “sensor strip” is attached also. Checked several parts sites and can’t find a similar part for my 2009 ML350.

thanks in advance for any guidance or knowledge that you can share


Old 12-16-2020 | 09:04 AM
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2002 ML 320 & 2006 ML500
Before we get started, the first thing you must do is update your profile to include the year, model, is it gas, CDI or Blue and where you live, which tells us you have right or left hand drive.




Old 12-16-2020 | 12:24 PM
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It is a 2009, gas, rear wheel drive, base model. Vin # is 4JGBB56E79A506446



Old 12-16-2020 | 12:25 PM
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Live in New Orleans. Left hand drive. I put the info into my post because I primarily drive a 2010 ML550. Working to get the ML350 ready to sell. Hoping to solve the liftgate problem before posting it for sale. The code reader is an icarsoft MB V2.0.




Last edited by MJML550; 12-16-2020 at 05:06 PM.
Old 12-17-2020 | 03:08 AM
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From: Bronx, N.Y.
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Originally Posted by MJML550
Live in New Orleans. Left hand drive. I put the info into my post because I primarily drive a 2010 ML550. Working to get the ML350 ready to sell. Hoping to solve the liftgate problem before posting it for sale. The code reader is an icarsoft MB V2.0.

You didn't follow the instructions. It only takes 1 min. to do it.
Old 12-17-2020 | 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Maj. Dundee
Before we get started, the first thing you must do is update your profile to include the year, model, is it gas, CDI or Blue and where you live, which tells us you have right or left hand drive.



FYI. You asked a good question but there is no requirement to add the car to the CP Car info can be posted in the thread as needed and as the OP did...
Old 12-17-2020 | 08:15 PM
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Found this diagram. It helps. Also called the dealership, and they want $150 each.

Still haven’t found a part number so that I can price check online.

Wish I knew how to test to confirm. Also wish I knew how to upload thumbnails.
Old 12-17-2020 | 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by MJML550

Found this diagram. It helps. Also called the dealership, and they want $150 each.

Still haven’t found a part number so that I can price check online.

Wish I knew how to test to confirm. Also wish I knew how to upload thumbnails.
Ask the dealer for the part numbers. They found the parts and should be able to share the part numbers.

Electrical components can be tested with a multimeter for resistance. It is not always a perfect test, but it is a start. It will help you determine if the parts are completely dead or not.

Last edited by expl0rer; 12-17-2020 at 10:14 PM.
Old 12-18-2020 | 04:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Wolfman
FYI. You asked a good question but there is no requirement to add the car to the CP Car info can be posted in the thread as needed and as the OP did...
Yes it certainly was. This forum neglected to require members to post the year and model description.

When posts go into two pages, if the member only stated his year in the opening post, then everyone would have to refer to opening post to find the year. No sir.
Old 01-03-2021 | 10:09 AM
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Got this project finished. New pinch strips solved my issues. The newer ones were noticeably more “pinchable” vs the old ones.

It was an fairly easy job. I did each side one at a time. Took about an hour to do both sides.

Detached the lower attachment for the lift cylinder to slip off the old panel and to install the new - need a stick to prop it up as the single remaining side would not hold up the liftgate by itself. Its a mystery to me how the hydraulic fluid gets to the cylinders - no visible hoses, just two attachment studs.

On the right side, also had to temporarily detach the lift position sensor to allow removal of the old panel and install of the new. Used blue lock tight to reinstall the lift sensor screws - was obviously used on the original install and don’t want this vibrating loose. Pic below.

There are rubber grommets at the very top and very bottom - four in total. Only one came out clean, and I could not match them at the auto parts store. I got plastic as a temp solution and will go to the dealership this week to match them up - don’t want any water intrusion.

For our 2009 ML350 the part numbers were:164-690-16-30-9051 and 164-690-15-30. About $105 each vs. $150 each at the dealership.

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