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E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
New to me...
I pulled the trigger on the much-desired ML 350. Low miles examples are rare, I ended up with a 2010 w/60k for $12,500...
I kind of wanted a newer model ML, but don't like oversize vehicles. Also don't want it to compete with my Metris. The W164 is a nicer size for me, my roads at home are winding. The ML doesn't compete with my GLA on back roads though. It's really a dog mobile / beater to replace a 2004 C240 wagon I used like a rented donkey. It was great, but I could use an upgrade. My main requirements were light interior, for the dogs, and 4Matic. I wanted to try the 3.5, it's got a lot going for it. 7-speed is awesome too.
So it's pretty good after 6hr of ownership. No apparent issues, other than I found the edge of the serp belt shredded off. It had been installed one "tooth" off the edge of the pully, and it shredded / shaved off a 1/8" section I found in the engine bay. I guess I'll have it replaced. It looks DIY-able but I'm far from home in PA. I have a BOSCH Service Center here near Daytona that I use. I don't really care for the 20" wheels, I would sell/trade them for some 18"s if it was convenient. Handling is a little wallowing imo, and it's not the fault of the wheels or tires; new Scorpions.
Currently filled with 3 gallons of E85 in the tank. It cleans the crap out of the fuel system and engine internals and it the best fuel if you can run Full Flex E85. I never use Techron anymore, but I will blast the intake with some CRC GDI cleaner, and develop a DIY procedure to share.
When my air filters arrive, I'll do both jobs. Pure One filters were $11ea on Amazon, and they are a standout product. I assume the old ones are from 40k service. I'll do the plugs back home.
Only 1500mi on the oil, maybe a little more....but it's overfull. I might drain it for some HD oil like Rotella or Delo before I drive home to PA, 1000 miles.
I'll place my future posts under this one to be concise, rather than separate threads or answers to old ones.
Overall I am pretty happy and am lucky to find a very clean example. The deal was a breeze literally, we did it at dude's beach condo a few blocks from my favorite restaurant. It doesn't get much better....he took a personal check!
Good choice. I like how the interior matches your dog.😁
20" wheels was a rare option, 19" was standard, not 18".
Keep in mind if you swap wheels there was at least 2 different tire pressure monitor systems over the years and they aren't compatible.
Last edited by E55Greasemonkey; Mar 3, 2021 at 04:49 PM.
E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
The NAPA oil is made by Valvoline, same chemistry and cost me only $2/q. Visc calc says the mix comes out to 13cSt, a light 40 weight. This is a 6 month oil change, as winter will get some Synpower 0w-40 with more Maxlife. I've got to use up the oils I already have and most of them are based on 5q changes, so I'm trying to use it up without buying more and more.
If all I had to use was Maxlife 10w-40 and 5w-30 mixed for the seasons, I would be fine with that. My old oil came out reddish, which is kind of weird, since I filled it with Mobil Delvac myself.
Last edited by Audi Junkie; Apr 20, 2021 at 10:58 AM.
E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
If I post enough silly oil pics, you guys can quit arguing and turn your energy on me...
Obviously lots of Pennzoil in play, making up 8q batches is no problem. Same for the Mobil 1, I have 16q. The other Pennzoil is the Ultra SRT 0w-40 (not Euro) with 200ppm of moly. I used it as an additive, but am now down to 8q, so I have to decide if I save until I get a brand new car....moly is the ticket for engine break-in.
The Valvoline is going in the car this year. I like to have 2 changes of the same type oil, because I leave the old filter in after 5000-6000 miles, it's just fine....good for another 5000. The spec is for 30,000km service, throwing it out at 5k is silly. There's some Liqui Moly that I couldn't care less about. Same chemistry as Rotella 5w-40, so instead of buying more....it gets mixed together, lol nobody else here would mix up their precious Euro oils! Same deal for Motul VW 504....same low-SAPS formula as PZ Euro L 5w-30; without any organo-metallic additives...MB 229.51/VW 504, so I'll mix 3q of it in. Euro oils are a joke, imo. I just happen to have these samples. in the back is a jug of Castrol Edge 0w-40 with the nano-titanium dioxide additives, maybe the best oil on the market....lol but I have to use up my boring oils first.
Speaking of boring, yes 12 two gallon cases of Rotella 5w-40, discount and rebate came to $2 a gallon and I have a bunch of Rotella hats that came in the cases, lol. It mixes well with the other SOPUS products. Here I did a UOA on 50/50 Rotella and PZ Platinum in my Audi 3.2 DI....the lowest wear I ever saw with this engine.
These non-turbo non-DI engines DO NOT need spec oil, or even special oil at all. They can run on ANY oil in the store. Doubt it? Name an oil that will harm the engine. At the right change interval and climate, any modern oil will work. imo, 5q Maxlife 10w-40 mixed with 3q of 5w-30 is perfect, unless you are starting repeatedly below freezing. Then 5q of 5w-30 and 3q of 10w-40. 12-13cSt at +100c is perfect.
Read..."STANDARD OIL" spec oil is just if you want to go 10k-15k between changes, I do 6 months. Spec oil??? Does anyone really think Rotella 5w-40 is going to assplode my engine? lol.
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