2006 ML350
I just wanted to post this for others that may have the same issue. Everything I was finding primarily related to automatic liftgates so didn't apply. I had tried replacing both the handle itself (with switch), as well as lock actuator but nothing was working.
I'd seen a little information rgarding the possibility of the rear SAM unit corroding due to defective seals on the taillights from MB. They are glued to the light fixture instead of the body I guess.
Well, I unbolted the rear fuse box, being careful not to let positive terminals touch ground of course, and could reach the lower SAM unit. I got all of the harnesses unplugged easily except for the small furthest back one which I had to get the box out first for. For me, I just used a panel spreader to pop the box out of it's holder, no screws etc. Anyhow, got the box out, got the bottom side of the actual SAM unit case off and sprayed the entire thing, top and bottom with Electronics cleaner (non-dialectric wd-40 basically) then used compressed air to blow out excess, let dry, then reconnected and voila. The rear liftgate now opens.
Saved me an appointment I'd had set up for a $170 diagnostic at which point I was expecting either an "update" to be charged for, or recommending a new SAM unit.
I just wanted to post this for others that may have the same issue. Everything I was finding primarily related to automatic liftgates so didn't apply. I had tried replacing both the handle itself (with switch), as well as lock actuator but nothing was working.
I'd seen a little information rgarding the possibility of the rear SAM unit corroding due to defective seals on the taillights from MB. They are glued to the light fixture instead of the body I guess.
Well, I unbolted the rear fuse box, being careful not to let positive terminals touch ground of course, and could reach the lower SAM unit. I got all of the harnesses unplugged easily except for the small furthest back one which I had to get the box out first for. For me, I just used a panel spreader to pop the box out of it's holder, no screws etc. Anyhow, got the box out, got the bottom side of the actual SAM unit case off and sprayed the entire thing, top and bottom with Electronics cleaner (non-dialectric wd-40 basically) then used compressed air to blow out excess, let dry, then reconnected and voila. The rear liftgate now opens.
Saved me an appointment I'd had set up for a $170 diagnostic at which point I was expecting either an "update" to be charged for, or recommending a new SAM unit.