2010 ML350 Bluetech starter replacement (my method)
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Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 69
Likes: 8
2010 ML 350 Bluetec 4MATIC
2010 ML350 Bluetech starter replacement (my method)
It was hard to find info on this for my particular vehicle, so I figured I'd share my steps in case it helps someone else.
1: Removed passenger air cleaner.
2: Placed car on ramps
3: Disconnected main battery
4: Removed splash shield covering transmission.
5: Removed heat shield under the DPF (3 x 10 mm bolts, not easy to access but you can get them off)
6: Removed probe from the front of the DPF (16mm open end wrench, comes off easy and helps with clearance)
7: Removed engine mount heat shield (16mm bolt on top, used 3/8 ratchet, held pressure on it with one hand to keep the socket in place and used along pry bar to lever the ratchet handle with the other. all done from below)
8: Removed starter bolts (2 x torx not hard to access with extensions and universal joints)
9: Removed starter and hung from main power cable.
10: Removed main power cable (removed nut from above with extensions, I held it in place from below while a helper removed the nut from above, 13mm I believe)
11: Dropped starter down and removed the small black wire (8mm nut I believe)
That's it, install in reverse order. The engine mount heat shield was the most difficult part, I tried to leave it in place, but the starter would not come out with it on there.
1: Removed passenger air cleaner.
2: Placed car on ramps
3: Disconnected main battery
4: Removed splash shield covering transmission.
5: Removed heat shield under the DPF (3 x 10 mm bolts, not easy to access but you can get them off)
6: Removed probe from the front of the DPF (16mm open end wrench, comes off easy and helps with clearance)
7: Removed engine mount heat shield (16mm bolt on top, used 3/8 ratchet, held pressure on it with one hand to keep the socket in place and used along pry bar to lever the ratchet handle with the other. all done from below)
8: Removed starter bolts (2 x torx not hard to access with extensions and universal joints)
9: Removed starter and hung from main power cable.
10: Removed main power cable (removed nut from above with extensions, I held it in place from below while a helper removed the nut from above, 13mm I believe)
11: Dropped starter down and removed the small black wire (8mm nut I believe)
That's it, install in reverse order. The engine mount heat shield was the most difficult part, I tried to leave it in place, but the starter would not come out with it on there.
Member
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 104
Likes: 21
From: Portland, Oregon USA
2010 ML350 Bluetec, Alfa Romeo GTV6
This guide was super helpful. It mimics the Factory instructions, except the official instructions call for removing the moto mount and supporting the engine with a lift above it.
I figured I would try this, and worse case I could jack up the engine from below and remove the motor mount.
The starter won't want to come out at first. You have to find just the right combination of twisting and pulling to get it past the motor mount and engine bosses. But it will come out.
Soup to nuts this procedure took me about 2.5 hours including putting the truck on ramps, etc.
And the new starter definitely spins faster than the old one.
I figured I would try this, and worse case I could jack up the engine from below and remove the motor mount.
The starter won't want to come out at first. You have to find just the right combination of twisting and pulling to get it past the motor mount and engine bosses. But it will come out.
Soup to nuts this procedure took me about 2.5 hours including putting the truck on ramps, etc.
And the new starter definitely spins faster than the old one.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 69
Likes: 8
2010 ML 350 Bluetec 4MATIC
sorry for the late reply, I didn't get an email notification for this forum.
I did not have any codes, mine was just getting slow based on cranking RPM that I could read with the scanner and I was having some long crank starting issues I was trying to resolve.
I did not have any codes, mine was just getting slow based on cranking RPM that I could read with the scanner and I was having some long crank starting issues I was trying to resolve.
Member
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 104
Likes: 21
From: Portland, Oregon USA
2010 ML350 Bluetec, Alfa Romeo GTV6
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2024
Posts: 1
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Hi All, thanks for posting this, there is indeed very little on this procedure out on the interwebs. So I'm trying to do this on my 2014 ML Bluetec, a couple of questions:
- On the DPF heatshield are we just unbolting it for movement or removing it from the car? In my car I had only 2 bolts, but it's still pretty well captured in the car, I'd have to totally mangle it to get it out all the way
- Same question on the motor mount shield, just unbolt or remove all the way?
- Why not remove the DPF? It seems like it would add gobs of room.
- Anyone have a pictoral guide?
Member
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 104
Likes: 21
From: Portland, Oregon USA
2010 ML350 Bluetec, Alfa Romeo GTV6
Hi All, thanks for posting this, there is indeed very little on this procedure out on the interwebs. So I'm trying to do this on my 2014 ML Bluetec, a couple of questions:
- On the DPF heatshield are we just unbolting it for movement or removing it from the car? In my car I had only 2 bolts, but it's still pretty well captured in the car, I'd have to totally mangle it to get it out all the way
- Same question on the motor mount shield, just unbolt or remove all the way?
- Why not remove the DPF? It seems like it would add gobs of room.
- Anyone have a pictoral guide?
If I have learned nothing else in 30 years of wrenching, it's that if you can easily remove and replace something to get at what you need to do, then remove that part. It's almost always easier than fighting to get around something. So if you can relatively easily remove the DPF then I would do that.
