M-Class (W164) Produced 2006-2011: ML280CDI, ML320CDI, ML420CDI, ML350, ML500, ML550

CAN BUS OFF | CAN BUS SIGNAL NOT DETECTED

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Old 12-03-2023 | 01:49 PM
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Freeman2020's Avatar
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W164
Angry CAN BUS OFF | CAN BUS SIGNAL NOT DETECTED

09 ML350 W164, 207K miles. This is happenning mostly in the mornings when car is cold. After I start the car, within 20-30 seconds, all error indicators in the dashboard start flashing to the point the car needs to be stopped and wont drive anymore or visit workshop without shifting gears. The only workaround is disconnecting the battery under the passenger seat, wait a few seconds, and reconnect it again. This may happen mostly when engine is cold.. any ideas? I have connected a OBD2 code reader and most of the alarm codes are related to CAN BUS OFF or CAN BUS SIGNAL NOT DETECTED. maybe short circuit or ground problem somwhere in CAN Network. what i cheked there are no signs of corrosion nearby CGW ( could not reach to itself and inside CGW because of many part need to remove under driver seat)
hope Someone can share any experience with this issue! Thanks.
Old 12-03-2023 | 02:43 PM
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'99 and '05 E55 AMG
Research the sleep and awake voltages for your model. Research CANbus connector junction locations. Put a multi-meter on the bus lines. One will be shorted low (short to chassis) or pushing 12 volts (short to power). Then pull connectors one at a time until bus stabilizes. Do not mix and match connectors as each is plugged into a particular location that matches the schematics! (I learned this lesson the hard way.)
I had a shorted rear door control module that worked fine yet killed both front door windows, mirrors, seat and steering wheel adjustment plus the lower control panel module on the transmission tunnel. Seems hard but not nearly as difficult as I thought it would be. Learn how to disassemble the junction blocks so you don't damage the CANbus connectors. There is a trick to it; not difficult but important.
I've posted on the above but not at home right now...
Old 12-03-2023 | 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by bbirdwell
Research the sleep and awake voltages for your model. Research CANbus connector junction locations. Put a multi-meter on the bus lines. One will be shorted low (short to chassis) or pushing 12 volts (short to power). Then pull connectors one at a time until bus stabilizes. Do not mix and match connectors as each is plugged into a particular location that matches the schematics! (I learned this lesson the hard way.)
I had a shorted rear door control module that worked fine yet killed both front door windows, mirrors, seat and steering wheel adjustment plus the lower control panel module on the transmission tunnel. Seems hard but not nearly as difficult as I thought it would be. Learn how to disassemble the junction blocks so you don't damage the CANbus connectors. There is a trick to it; not difficult but important.
I've posted on the above but not at home right now...
thanks for advice, it seems easy to do in my mind, but in reality hard because, i have no practice also , tools.. but must to do. in my country technicians You should pay tribute, so that they pay attention to you and do something.
Old 02-02-2024 | 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by bbirdwell
Research the sleep and awake voltages for your model. Research CANbus connector junction locations. Put a multi-meter on the bus lines. One will be shorted low (short to chassis) or pushing 12 volts (short to power). Then pull connectors one at a time until bus stabilizes. Do not mix and match connectors as each is plugged into a particular location that matches the schematics! (I learned this lesson the hard way.)
I had a shorted rear door control module that worked fine yet killed both front door windows, mirrors, seat and steering wheel adjustment plus the lower control panel module on the transmission tunnel. Seems hard but not nearly as difficult as I thought it would be. Learn how to disassemble the junction blocks so you don't damage the CANbus connectors. There is a trick to it; not difficult but important.
I've posted on the above but not at home right now...
Having the exact same problem with my 2010 ML350. Changed the CAN connector and car ran well for 2 weeks then problem Happened again when outdoor temperature was colder.? Please help? Thanks
Old 02-02-2024 | 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by MANTAYO
Having the exact same problem with my 2010 ML350. Changed the CAN connector and car ran well for 2 weeks then problem Happened again when outdoor temperature was colder.? Please help? Thanks
it is most problem with EIS module. you can make sure , just remove EIS fuse for a minute and than insert it. it seems that after 15 years from production the microchip on EIS board pass away . so when is minus degree outside it has problem.

Last edited by Freeman2020; 02-02-2024 at 01:11 PM.

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