I will as soon as I figure out how to remove the cover, it won't budge.

I read the thread you posted, I have three pins out the realized I don't need to replace all the guides, just the tension guide only, worn out on the edges.

In the same post someone mentions the Oil Pan bolts which is not the case here, the Cover bottom does not have bolts, only on 4 on top (left and right ), the 2 head bolts under the adjusters and the rest are around the front and side of the cover.

PIC 1 : The four bolts on top are all loose, I don't need to pull them out.
PIC 2: The Damaged Tension Rail
PIC 3: What is this called? some kind of valve that I need to replace the gasket on it.

 

Chain guide tore up has to be a really loose chain??

 

Just on the edge, probobly from rotating the Harmonic wheel backwords. Do you know what kind of valve this on top of the Cover?

 

Can you circle the valve in red?

 

I copied this from the long post I wanted you to read.
Note that the oil pain must be removed before removing the timing chain cover, and to do that requires lifting the engine, which requires removing several parts for clearance. Once that is done, then yes, the tensioner must be removed. Here's a comprehensive list of WIS docs for replacing the balance shaft, which includes the docs for removing the timing case cover:

https://benzbits.com/M272/ReplaceBalanceShaft.zip

 

 

Here is a 2008 ML350 with the cover removed, notice the oil pan is still on and the cover is off. This what I am trying to do, get the cover off.
I should be able to do the same and remove the cover without having to take the engine out. I actually removed everything off the front including the fan, radiator grill ....etc.

 

 

Did you loosen the bolt head on passenger side. It's under the cam gears!

 

Yes, on both sides.

 

Everything I have read still says the oil pan has to be at least loosen???

 

Ok, I am leaning to that too. This requires lowering the Exhaust system, bolts and nuts, which is ok, but hoisting the Engine requires a hoist and knowing the right height that engine needs to be lifted. I could damage my car.

 

That valve is the Left Air shutoff valve, in the picture is the Flange that holds the shuttoff valve. Just looked it up.

 

What tools did you use to loosen the head bolts attached to the timing cover?

 

watch this one

 

I took off the adjusters, then removed the bolts. I can put back since the left side colored chain matches and not like the right side where it does not match.

 

Well it is looking like the only thing left is the oil pan?? Read the 4 pictures I posted and make sure nothing is missing ? good luck

 

Thanks @vesiadog I am going to think about it and make a decision. Tirred and Frustrated

 

Been there done that . I enjoy driving them and at almost 70 yrs old working on them gets old. Just put front wheel bearings and struts on my GL550 last week… I give you a lot of credit tearing into this job it’s a tough one that most people walk away from . Bill

 

Thanks, I have decided to go ahead and do what I need to do, hoist the engine using jack and some wood peieces and remove the oil pan and the cover,. I am 4 years shy of 70 and love my car.

 

My dad got me started with MB’s . Our family car was a 1959 190… My first MB was a 1968 280sel… My dad was a really good mechanic and got me started at an early age. My 31 yr old son has a very large R129 part business and rebuilding the SL’s .
I really like the old 500 motors the most. The 320 motors also. Least favorite is the 350.
ok good luck and part of the country do you live in? I am 1/2 yr shy of the big 70.

 

this is a must watch video

 

My Dad used to own a Taxi service in Beirut in the 1950's, all his 6 Taxis were Mercedes'es, I never had any loyalty to any brand, it was always what the family needed, Van or Car or SUV but when my wife, for 41 years, saw this car for the first rime she fell in love with it and kept it since, it has not given me any issues but I guess age has tendencies. It started with the Righ Adjuster as retarted and the ball rolled.
Our home is Texas, north Texas and we love it.

 

@vesiadog I have a question if you can help: I just placed the cams on the engine, is there a specific postion to place them? Any markings.

I've added a couple of pics to show you

 

I would watch as many videos about timing and timing chains . Hopefully you can turn the cams with enough leverage to get them in the proper timing sequence to install the chains?
Biggest question I have is How did the gear teeth look? That is what has killed many 350 engines? good luck
“You align the cam gears to the crankshaft 40 degrees ATDC period. No other measurement is used. You must align the cam gears to each other and the machined surfaces of the cylinder head where the cylinder head covers bolt down. Make sure the cam gears aren't turned 180 degrees off since the top timing marks can fade. There are pulse wheels on each cam gear that align 270 degrees ATDC. There are 4 cam sensors, not the magnetic solenoids, that pull out of the front covers with one torx bolt each. When the crank is at 270 ATDC, the pulse wheel circles should align with the holes where the cam sensors were. Let me know if you have anymore questions, I have done plenty of balance shafts and helped plenty of people that have repaired them incorrectly.”
copied from a site !!!