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Removed the plug and scanned, same result suggesting that that sensor is bad I suspect?
Seems that my DPF Pressure Sensor is toast as well, I bought 2 news ones to have as spares just in case.
I would change only the charge pressure sensor as is the only one that has an electric Fault code.
The differential DPF sensor seams OK ( if is not really cracked, broken) as it shows that something else is not OK.
After the Boost will recover, you can check some parameters with your tester as "Actual Values".
OK I will get that ordered here, thanks for the help thus far..
I should really take off my oil filter housing to replace those gaskets and while doing that take those pipes off and clean them out.
I am sure there's some soot build up in there no doubt.
B5/1 code is resolved with a new sensor, whew!
However the 2355-002 code still persists and THAT is what's causing my sporadic RPM dipping when starting the vehicle along with the continued limp mode.
Reading up on this code seems to show a common issue with part no A6030780045 being the culprit but I cannot seem to locate that rubber Y adapter on my ML.
B5/1 code is resolved with a new sensor, whew!
However the 2355-002 code still persists and THAT is what's causing my sporadic RPM dipping when starting the vehicle along with the continued limp mode.
Reading up on this code seems to show a common issue with part no A6030780045 being the culprit but I cannot seem to locate that rubber Y adapter on my ML.
Are you referring to the turbo downpipe?
If that was clogged, and I'm sure that it is because they always seem to get clogged being a diesel, wouldn't it be the air flow is too small versus too large?
Oh wait you're referring to the smaller pipe right below it, correct? I should take that off and clean it I guess for sure but again air flow too large is the question, cheers
Are you referring to the turbo downpipe?
If that was clogged, and I'm sure that it is because they always seem to get clogged being a diesel, wouldn't it be the air flow is too small versus too large?
Oh wait you're referring to the smaller pipe right below it, correct? I should take that off and clean it I guess for sure but again air flow too large is the question, cheers
Yes, I posted a picture few messages above.
#2 "About: "I was getting erratic RPM behaviour along with stalling when starting when cold."
I would inspect the silver pipe from EGR to mixing chamber."
This pipe became clogged because the wrong design ( at the next m642 this has a more sweet angle). In time the diameter becomes smaller because of the clogging and the pressure of the burned gases increase a lot and 'swirl " deeply in such a way as the combustion becomes erratic with low volume and high pressure burned gases.
Just 2 screws and a O-Ring, a Brake Cleaner Spray and mandatory water after Spray, as spray is very inflamabile
Okay, I assume you are referring to the stainless pipe right below the sensor in my photo here?
I went and removed two bolts from that in the front but it appears to have a third one in the back. Is this correct? Also how does the other end of this pipe connect? Is it press fitted with an o-ring as I cannot seem to see anything since there is the turbo downpipe as well as the coolant hose in the way.
A good 75 to 80% clogged. I've cleaned it all out with foaming degreaser and it's spotless now. I'll report back after I have reinstalled it to see if there's any change or if that code is gone, fingers crossed. Appreciate it once again
Haha let's hope so!
I will report back shortly, gonna be fun getting that press fit flange into the area it's supposed to sit as there's no visibility in there.
Gonna be all about feeling it haha
Haha let's hope so!
I will report back shortly, gonna be fun getting that press fit flange into the area it's supposed to sit as there's no visibility in there.
Gonna be all about feeling it haha
You can take a break, prepare for a trip to dealership tomorrow to buy the red gasket and the O-Ring - any attempt to use sealant will make your next week miserable... Also clean the base where flange connect with the screws to the mixing chamber, also for perfect tightness.
Tightness is absolutely mandatory as any loss of pressure will be interpreted wrong by your new sensors.
By O-Ring are you referring to the end that press fits onto the block that has an outer bell like housing on it along with an inner pipe?
That must be on the outlet on the block, which without taking off a bunch of stuff, I cannot get to.
I tried installing it anyway, used silicone grease to coat the gasket but it runs worse now than before haha.
I won't stay running for more than 5 seconds, I am sure due to the o-ring not seating vs that orange rubber gasket..
Need to figure out the part numbers for the gasket & o-ring.
#44
"- any attempt to use sealant will make your next week miserable... " sealant, I mean silicone, or any youtube solution and I am sorry if I was too soft trying to convince you.
I don't have your VIN, so I can be wrong...
I'm sure but I wasn't sure on what the parts were and finally when I looked them up and I saw those I just saw it screw it it's a full kit I'll buy them all it gives me a backup o-ring it gives me the gasket for that housing that butts up to the engine as well as that orange one
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