trigital

But the orange one doesn't seem orange in your picture. And orange is usually for hot air parts like turbo, PVC, EGR circuit and black is for oily environments.

Bobenis

Well I guess we will see when it arrives in 2 days because the o-ring that presses onto the larger flange on that pipe is black the ones that come in this kit are green which are made out of a different material than just straight up rubber. That upper portion of the flange that butts onto the EGR definitely would get very hot as well but when I took the o-ring off and inspected it it still had loads of pliability to it and wasn't stiff or cracking at all

Bobenis

The kit arrived but the green o rings are way too small (I have the same size o rings in my big kit I bought), even though these are from a German company (made in Germany) and claim to fit my vehicle, sigh.
That black o ring from Mercedes is $13 (robbery no doubt) and the EGR seal is $15 (ouch) but he couldn't tell me if what they stock was orange or black.
The EGR is in stock but not the o ring so they have to order it.
A local shop has a nitrile o ring kit in stock so I might take that ring and see if they have the same size.
400 piece kit for $20 or 1 for $13....no brainer.

trigital

No brainer at MB means very expensive, I can explain but is somehow obvious, will bring a lot of expenses.

Usually MB has the same prices all over the world only taxes are different.

​​My advice is to use VIN number and reference numbers for placing the order at the dealership. Too much work for 15$ difference.

Bobenis

Got the proper parts from Mercedes yesterday, they were out of o-rings and had to order more.
Just installed them and it starts up, has a slight 1000rpm spike then sputters and dies, so no change.
Something else is causing the issue, it wasn't those 2 seals after all.

trigital

Sorry to hear that,

Ignition on, delete all faults, ignition Off, start engine let it die, read fault codes.
Also check if no fuel hose was pinched during your hard work,

Bobenis

OK did that.
What I noticed after clearing is the idle, as stated, starts to fluctuate on a downward trajectory until it sputters and dies.
If I start to rev it, it will still sputter and want to die but if I rev it high enough it will suddenly get a shift in the idle and then it runs smooth, that shift is when the EGR code becomes active once again.
If while it is idling, now normally, post EGR code is active and I erase it, it then goes back to the sputtering/dies.

Codes that were active before the erasure (why my new sensor was having that same B5/1 code again, who knows):



Codes after (the same one that has been persistent all along):

trigital

One hypothesis besides many other available is that your EGR valve is stuck in open position, so the engine is flooded with exhaust gases on idle when it supposed to use only fresh air.

Before cleaning the metalic pipe, the volume of the exhaust gases ( burned air - without oxygen) was much smaller because the pipe was clogged. So before all cleaning the EGR stuck open with the pipe clogged assured more fresh air to maintain engine running.


Normally this can be easily tested with a decent diagnosis system actuating the EGR valve On and Off to monitor the fresh air intake over the Air Mass Flow sensors. Also, taking out the EGR valve for a visual inspection could be a solution if your diag can't activate the valve and display the Air flow in the same time, especially if you let the EGR valve connected to the harness - Ignition On and Off should trigger the movement of the valve
Unfortunately the EGR can be very hard to be taken out from the Intake manifold.

All that, if the Software is still original, without any "off's".




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Bobenis

Pretty sure my Foxwell can do those actuations.
The ECG software is stock, no modifications.