When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
But the orange one doesn't seem orange in your picture. And orange is usually for hot air parts like turbo, PVC, EGR circuit and black is for oily environments.
Well I guess we will see when it arrives in 2 days because the o-ring that presses onto the larger flange on that pipe is black the ones that come in this kit are green which are made out of a different material than just straight up rubber. That upper portion of the flange that butts onto the EGR definitely would get very hot as well but when I took the o-ring off and inspected it it still had loads of pliability to it and wasn't stiff or cracking at all
The kit arrived but the green o rings are way too small (I have the same size o rings in my big kit I bought), even though these are from a German company (made in Germany) and claim to fit my vehicle, sigh.
That black o ring from Mercedes is $13 (robbery no doubt) and the EGR seal is $15 (ouch) but he couldn't tell me if what they stock was orange or black.
The EGR is in stock but not the o ring so they have to order it.
A local shop has a nitrile o ring kit in stock so I might take that ring and see if they have the same size.
400 piece kit for $20 or 1 for $13....no brainer.
Got the proper parts from Mercedes yesterday, they were out of o-rings and had to order more.
Just installed them and it starts up, has a slight 1000rpm spike then sputters and dies, so no change.
Something else is causing the issue, it wasn't those 2 seals after all.
OK did that.
What I noticed after clearing is the idle, as stated, starts to fluctuate on a downward trajectory until it sputters and dies.
If I start to rev it, it will still sputter and want to die but if I rev it high enough it will suddenly get a shift in the idle and then it runs smooth, that shift is when the EGR code becomes active once again.
If while it is idling, now normally, post EGR code is active and I erase it, it then goes back to the sputtering/dies.
Codes that were active before the erasure (why my new sensor was having that same B5/1 code again, who knows):
Codes after (the same one that has been persistent all along):
One hypothesis besides many other available is that your EGR valve is stuck in open position, so the engine is flooded with exhaust gases on idle when it supposed to use only fresh air.
Before cleaning the metalic pipe, the volume of the exhaust gases ( burned air - without oxygen) was much smaller because the pipe was clogged. So before all cleaning the EGR stuck open with the pipe clogged assured more fresh air to maintain engine running.
Normally this can be easily tested with a decent diagnosis system actuating the EGR valve On and Off to monitor the fresh air intake over the Air Mass Flow sensors. Also, taking out the EGR valve for a visual inspection could be a solution if your diag can't activate the valve and display the Air flow in the same time, especially if you let the EGR valve connected to the harness - Ignition On and Off should trigger the movement of the valve
Unfortunately the EGR can be very hard to be taken out from the Intake manifold.
All that, if the Software is still original, without any "off's".
Decided to take thie throttle body/EGR return mixer off and give it a good cleaning.
Surprisingly the throttle body was very clean little, to no buildup at all on it, however the ports connecting to the manifolds were a little gummed, up surprisingly not too bad either.
Here are some before shots:
And here are some after cleaning shots.
That little temperature or air sensor probe that you see in front of the throttle body was completely caked with soot and oil, I used some sensor cleaner and lightly scrubbed it to get it back to good shape. Maybe that will make some difference who knows?
I thoroughly soaked the engine and cleaned off some of the gunked on oil since I had a lot of room in to do so. Of course I sealed up all the ports with rubber gloves so that nothing would get in them.
I'm tempted since I have this unit off to spray some cleaner into the intake manifolds as well as the EGR, what do you think?
#44
"- any attempt to use sealant will make your next week miserable... " sealant, I mean silicone, or any youtube solution and I am sorry if I was too soft trying to convince you.
I don't have your VIN, so I can be wrong...
Can you possibly shoot me the STAR info for the gaskets I need on the EGR?
That first image shows the ones I need, appreciate it.
230 x 2 is off as the ring that goes into 380 is a different thicker & taller black rubber ring vs the 230 orange on the plastic return mixer.
I have a new 460.
No info about 380....sorry, 220 has 2 variants...I really don't know why....here all that is very cheap and we kindly don't care about not using all.... Did you check here? If like this...then a new Intakes will be needed...
Ah I bet you the rubber gasket on 380 only comes with the connector, not separately!
Typical Mercedes.
My intakes, including the EGR, have just a thin coat of soot on them. Maybe 3mm thick at most.
I stuck my long fingers in there and there was no change in build up.
So I had some time to scan and try some actuations today.
I managed to test out the EGR via opening and closing the EGR valve through my scanner.
Sure enough when it is closed the vehicle runs fine but when open it starts to sputter and die.
Would that then suggest I have a vacuum leak somewhere that is allowing additional air in causing the "air mass to be too large" then?
Sorry to here that, it seams that the EGR pressure is too high, very rare situation with the pipe is already cleaned. If you are sure that air filters it's not clogged and the plastic "V" sits tight onto the turbocharger intake, I would check the B60 ( backpressure) sensor reading the values with engine stopped and with engine started.
Anyway, judging by the dirt accumulated maybe your engine oil together with the quality of diesel in your area was not the happiest choice as you may know that the dirt could be the same into the intake manifold swirl butterfly's or even into the DPF. That why I would check B60 to see if DPF can restrict the exhaust so bad as the pressure build can extinguish the combustion.
Well I took the DPF off a couple of months ago and did the full Liquid Moly solution clean on it so that is spotless.
Also added a new temp sensor for the DPF as well.
Scanner shows the DPF is clear with very little pressure differential between the before & after lines on it.
I will check over all the things you suggested again but I replaced the air filters earlier this year & do not drive the vehicle much.
I'll keep you posted, my new ISM for my ML350 arrives today so I have to get that installed and initialized.
An aluminum gasket is supposed to go between the DPF & CAT, I bought it from MB but it is impossible to get that gasket to stay and properly compress and seal between the two and get the clamp over top so I had to omit it.
That shouldn't be causing the issue though, would it since that portion would not be part of the gas recirculation & that code was present prior to my DPF removal and cleaning.
The Foxwell perfectly initialized and wrote the VIN to my new ISM for the 350 and it's back on the road, thankfully.
almost 5 months later lol.
I just bought an Open port interface along with a loaded 500GB SSD Xentry into my ThinkPad.
They remotely activated it so it is good to go.
I will get that ML320 scanned here in the coming days and report back on if it finds anything different.
Thew issue still persists, been driving my ML350.
Xentry it's a diagnosis system, no sense to use Xentry just for reading the Faults Codes.
Also, under any Fault code there is a "+" menu from you can read the "environmental data", that includes a lot of data regarding when and how the fault code appears.
Click on Fault code and press Continue/Test and try to follow the step by step guides.
Guided tests from Xentry are very comprehensive, user friendly and if you understand to follow the steps one by one - pragmatic/German way of thinking, no poetry or YouTube folklore, the repair solutions will be obvious in the end of the test because you will also learn a lot.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
