I would change only the charge pressure sensor as is the only one that has an electric Fault code.

The differential DPF sensor seams OK ( if is not really cracked, broken) as it shows that something else is not OK.

After the Boost will recover, you can check some parameters with your tester as "Actual Values".

 

OK I will get that ordered here, thanks for the help thus far..
I should really take off my oil filter housing to replace those gaskets and while doing that take those pipes off and clean them out.
I am sure there's some soot build up in there no doubt.

 

I assume the Bosch equivalent would be 0 261 230 193?

 

I have little experience with aftermarket codes.

On eBay I saw one "original" with 0 261 230 194....

 

Yeah when I searched that above # this site shows me the Bosch equivalent.

https://spareto.com/oe/a0061531528

The sensor you pictured above is the same brand as mine but a different part No.

The one I took on my car above does have an additional number of 0261230144 on it however.

 

B5/1 code is resolved with a new sensor, whew!
However the 2355-002 code still persists and THAT is what's causing my sporadic RPM dipping when starting the vehicle along with the continued limp mode.
Reading up on this code seems to show a common issue with part no A6030780045 being the culprit but I cannot seem to locate that rubber Y adapter on my ML.

 

Did you clean the silver metallic pipe?

 

Are you referring to the turbo downpipe?
If that was clogged, and I'm sure that it is because they always seem to get clogged being a diesel, wouldn't it be the air flow is too small versus too large?

Oh wait you're referring to the smaller pipe right below it, correct? I should take that off and clean it I guess for sure but again air flow too large is the question, cheers

 

Yes, I posted a picture few messages above.

#2
"About:
"I was getting erratic RPM behaviour along with stalling when starting when cold."

I would inspect the silver pipe from EGR to mixing chamber."


This pipe became clogged because the wrong design ( at the next m642 this has a more sweet angle). In time the diameter becomes smaller because of the clogging and the pressure of the burned gases increase a lot and 'swirl " deeply in such a way as the combustion becomes erratic with low volume and high pressure burned gases.
Just 2 screws and a O-Ring, a Brake Cleaner Spray and mandatory water after Spray, as spray is very inflamabile

 

​ Okay, I assume you are referring to the stainless pipe right below the sensor in my photo here?
I went and removed two bolts from that in the front but it appears to have a third one in the back. Is this correct? Also how does the other end of this pipe connect? Is it press fitted with an o-ring as I cannot seem to see anything since there is the turbo downpipe as well as the coolant hose in the way.

 

Yes, may have the third screw. On the other side is only pressed through O-Ring

 

A good 75 to 80% clogged. I've cleaned it all out with foaming degreaser and it's spotless now. I'll report back after I have reinstalled it to see if there's any change or if that code is gone, fingers crossed. Appreciate it once again

 

Don't forget to clean the cleaner...

 

The cleaner?

 

Yes, cleaner marks inside the tube, no need to be sucked into the intakes

 

Oh I got you, I thought you meant another part you were calling the cleaner lol.
Yeah the pipe is completely spotless inside now, like new

 

Great, no the idle will be smooth as a baby's bottom.

 

Haha let's hope so!
I will report back shortly, gonna be fun getting that press fit flange into the area it's supposed to sit as there's no visibility in there.
Gonna be all about feeling it haha

 

You can take a break, prepare for a trip to dealership tomorrow to buy the red gasket and the O-Ring - any attempt to use sealant will make your next week miserable... Also clean the base where flange connect with the screws to the mixing chamber, also for perfect tightness.

Tightness is absolutely mandatory as any loss of pressure will be interpreted wrong by your new sensors.

 

By O-Ring are you referring to the end that press fits onto the block that has an outer bell like housing on it along with an inner pipe?
That must be on the outlet on the block, which without taking off a bunch of stuff, I cannot get to.

The flange and entire pipe is spotless.

 

I tried installing it anyway, used silicone grease to coat the gasket but it runs worse now than before haha.
I won't stay running for more than 5 seconds, I am sure due to the o-ring not seating vs that orange rubber gasket..
Need to figure out the part numbers for the gasket & o-ring.

 

#44
"- any attempt to use sealant will make your next week miserable... " sealant, I mean silicone, or any youtube solution and I am sorry if I was too soft trying to convince you.


I don't have your VIN, so I can be wrong...

 

I managed to find the ones after researching.
Got this kit




I hope it fixes it otherwise there's gotta be a vacuum leak somewhere.

 

Very cheap at any dealership, the original

 

I'm sure but I wasn't sure on what the parts were and finally when I looked them up and I saw those I just saw it screw it it's a full kit I'll buy them all it gives me a backup o-ring it gives me the gasket for that housing that butts up to the engine as well as that orange one