Read above the pic.

 

Anytime with the pics.

The filter link was for Diesel.
Your link fits the Gasoline. (don't get K&N go with MANN)

 

Do not get a filter for the gas engine anywhere but at the dealer or a German parts house. This filter is dealer proprietary. No matter what Amazon says concerning the fit, it will NOT fit a 2012 ML350 gas engine. Send KN or anyone else that makes oil filters an email and they will tell you the same thing.

 

Hi guys, new to the forum. I was helping my friend do an oil change on her W166 and this thread was very helpful in that regard so I just wanted to add my contributions.

Many thx to the tips provided as well as the awesome pics by Greg. I figured I'd supplement it w/pics for Gas model as such, it's not a complete step-by-step. Also, I forgot that I had set my older camera (used for majority of pics of the actual oil change) on intervalometer and thus had used a lower resolution so apoliges for the small pics. Where applicable, I've inserted a link to the larger full size-image.

=======

Starting w/removal of that plastic engine cover, there is one clip in particular that you need to pay heed to as there are hooks underneath it. You should use a small right-angle plier to squeeze it together in order to remove it:

It mounts to the metal platform in right pic.

It's the bottom-left clip in this pic (this is the bottom of the panel so it'll be the bottom right when installed in the car):


Here's a shot of the drain plug looking underneath the vehicle from the front:

Like on Greg's diesel, it's 13mm socket. I didn't know what the torque value was so tightened to approx. 19ft/lb (if anyone knows actual value, please chime in). TIP: You may wish to warm the engine up so as to warm the oil for better flow. Also remember to open up the oil fill cap and pull out the dipstick to open more holes to aid the oil drainage.

As Greg mentioned, it would be VERY helpful to pick up the oil filter cup wrench (I assume it's ). I was actually able to loosen the filter by hand but it was very slow going and given the location, very difficult to get a good solid grip on. TIP: Moving this pipe lower will help provide just a wee bit more room for a better grip:

It doesn't look like much due to the angle in this pic but trust me, it'll help.

I placed a sheet of paper towel to catch whatever residual oil may be left after I drained the oil. TIP: When you feel the filter is about loose, don't just spin it off immediately, let it sit for a while since once the o-ring clears, it'll break the vacuum and allow whatever oil is caught in there to drain out. Take it nice and slow and you won't create a mess. Notice the 25n/m torque value, another reason to get the filter wrench (to use a torque wrench).


There will likely be some residual oil in the base of the filter assembly so just wait a minute or two for it to drain:



=======
INTERLUDE...

Now about that oil filter... I had picked up both a OEM and Purolator so I could compare what the differences were since it was mentioned that non-OEM/MANN would NOT fit.

Here are some comparo pics:


Technically, the Purolator _should_ fit but since I couldn't seem to remove the spindle like structure in the middle (even though I was able to spin it freely), I didn't bother and went with the OEM. I'll see if I can remove it on the old filter in the future.

Another thing you'll notice is that the number is not the same as on the box but I compared it w/the old filter and they had the same numbers:


/INTERLUDE...
=======

Here's the filter removed with dipstick next to it:

Gently pry on the tip of the "spindle" to remove it.

This is the post that the new filter will "snap" on to:


Replace the large o-ring and insert the new filter into the cap until you hear a click. TIP: Apply fresh oil to both o-rings (especially the large one) as well as the threads GENEROUSLY, it'll make installation MUCH easier (especially if you don't have that filter wrench):


Hope this will help those attempting to do this on their own.

Cheers,
Tim

 

Almost time for another oil change. Last time, I used a Mityvac to get all the oil out, but this time, I might want to try emptying the oil via the drain plug. On my C300, there was a bolt AND a washer that I REPLACED because it was recommended on another thread, but looking at the pictures for the ML350 (gas) I don't exactly see a washer.

Did anybody that drained the oil via this plug replace the bolt and washer (if there is one) or just reuse the parts?

 

To the best of my recollection, there was no washer. I also reused the bolt. No problems thus far on my friend's 350 after the oil change (about 2.5K miles now).

 

Make sure you guys use some "grease" smear it lightly over those metal clips on the plastic cover. Or due to time, it just break off the attach points on the plastic cover. I did it and makes it much easier to removed at the next oil change.

 

Good tip - white lithium grease would seem to be the best choice.

 

I noticed that the electric wires ( that go under the oil pan and hook to the exhaust ) are wraped with insalation tape, but are soaked with oil that appearently seep from the oil drain plug or may be they got wet from the plug shooting oil at time of change .
My question is : Should i clean the wires and dry them out ? what should I use ? Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated .

 

get a clean rag, spray some Simple Green onto the rag, slight damp the cloth...then start wipe down the tape or wires. Im **** like that too. hehe.

 

Any one has experiance with oil aditives ? what do you think about this Liqui Moli from autohausaz ?

Miscellaneous Fluids/Treatments; Motor Clean; Oil Change Prep
Scrubs and cleans engine from the inside. Highly effective additives clean and loosen deposits in the engine. Add to a warm engine before oil change and idle engine 10 minutes before draining old oil. Limited availability .
Thank you for your help

 

Once your car reach about 70K, then do the additive or until the warranty expire, you don't want those *******s at the dealership trying to void any warranty.

 

So my friend's W166 was due for Service B and I finally got around to dissecting the OEM filter so I can see if the spindle fits in the Purolator... that would be a negative:


The spindle is too small:


I just went with the OEM again.

 

I know this thread is pretty old but it's still helpful! I will be doing mine when it hits 10K. I just don't see paying $670 when I can do it myself. Plus I'm a mechanic When I get home next week I'll scan all the part numbers the dealership provided me.
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I'll do the same for my ML 350 Bluetec too. I'm thinking to do the firs oil change sooner than 10K, I'm not a mechanic (like you) but over many years of being a car owner/driver I always thought that is a good idea to do the first oil change after 1-2 thousands, during the break in period.
I already got my oil (the only one type approved by Mercedes that I could find: Mobil 1 ESP Formula M 5W-40)

Just curious: being a mechanic, what do you think about this ML 350 Bluetec?

 

Honestly, this is my first diesel out of the 18 I've own! I can't compare to any other vehicles because this is my first. I like it though, great mileage and lots of torque. As far as the oil, trust me it's not worth changing it right away. It was built like that and engines now a days are designed with better technology. Engineers spent a great amount of time so not to worry. It's a different story for the vehicles I work with, combat military vehicles. Oil gets tested and sometimes most of them just gets topped off but for safety measure we change them anyway because the way it's driven. By the way Amazon sells a box of six for $50. Got mine cheaper? $53 shipped. Sent from my iPhone using IB AutoGroup

 

I know you're right, these new cars do not need break in and oil change like we used to do it in the past, but...since I've already spent almost $70K on this car is not a big deal to do one extra oil change (about $65 including filter...not cheap, to any other car it can be done for less than $20-25)

Not to mention the black color of the oil (which I understood, for diesel engines is normal to have that color after only just a few miles)

...anyway, I'm just looking for a reason to work under the hood, otherwise I shouldn't worry about anything for the next 8-8K.

I've asked you what do you think about this diesel assuming you being a mechanic had the chance to test and work with several other cars and to compare.

 

Now I remember, I did drive a BMW X5 35d back in Germany but it was different kind of beast! I took it for a speed test and it was clunky as F! The only thing I could think of is that the ML takes off faster and quieter.. BUT, the X5 is like a sports car on a twisty road and ended up getting an X5M anyway instead of the diesel. Now, compared to the gas version like what I had prior to this, 2012 ML. It feels heavy, that's all....

 

I just did an oil only change at 6500 miles on my 2013 ml 550. I figured I would do oil only at around 5-6 K, and then the full oil/filter service at the recommended 10 K level. On the V8, the oil has to be done from the bottom since the dipstick tube is too narrow for an vacuum extractor tube, and there is a replaceable washer on the crankcase plug.

My question, any opinions or perceived value on oil only versus a full oil/filter at such a short interval? I will plan on doing an oil analysis in the future, but wanted some thoughts from forum members as well.

Thanks

 

This is the first time I have owned a Mercedes long enough to require an oil change.

Went to the MB dealer today for the oil filter.
For this engine it is part number A 276 180 00 09.

I have since found this place that seems to have MB parts.

Don't know anything about them.

http://www.bmwmercedesparts.com/part...ow=1&maxRow=10

 

Question, I have a BlueTec so not sure if the V8 is different, but what's the point of changing the oil & not the filter? Esp w/ the filter sitting right there on top of the engine under the hood, it couldn't be any easier. Not attacking anyone, just curious.

 

I think it's dumb, don't attack but it isn't the right way to do a preventive maintenance. It's like changing break pads only on one side of the vehicle lol. But yeah, it is always recommended to change filters due to the trapped particles.

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If the oil truly was to the point of needing changing to help engine life then I can't fathom why the filter also would not need it. I guess the thought process is the oil has broken down and needs changing over that the oil is dirty and needs changing?

I think a lot of people change their oil themselves on their own defined schedules more out of an inner feeling to be doing something mechanical with their vehicle than any real mechanical need. That is just my opinion though.

 

Changing oil prior to its lifespan is actually waste of money. Regardless it's only mileage base not how hard it's driven. I work with vehicles where the oil gets analyze both transmission and engine, sometimes hydraulic too. Trust me, our vehicle is no where near the comparison based on looks and smell. The oil I deal with are so pasty sometimes and it's amazing how it still not contaminated with particles. I mean, we still do change our oil and filters before it is recommended because we don't want problems to occur.

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2013 W166 Bluetec Oil change video.
https://studio.youtube.com/video/KinPiL5a3-s/edit