I've changed the oil on my C300 before, and it was as simple as pulling the drain plug, draining the oil, putting in a new drain plug and washer, and changing the filter.

Is it a similar method for a 2012 ML350? I don't have one of those oil vacuums. My mom's vehicle already has 10K miles.

 

We have had recent discussions on the topic of maintenance. I have always performed my own general maintenance, mostly because I enjoyed it. For quite some time I have used Fumoto valves in place of oil pan plugs to make the drain easier both when taking samples for Blackstone oil analysis and to change oil. However some vehicles, including the ML350, have the filter in the engine compartment under the hood. Since you do not have to crawl under the car to change the filter, there is no reason to go under there to drain the oil either. An oil/liquids extractor (either hand pump, pneumatic or 12v.) will do the job quite well through the dip stick. The dipstick on the ML350 is oversize to allow for this kind of oil extraction and I believe most dealerships change the oil this way. Also, there is a skid plate like cover that would have to be removed to access the pan. I assume the pan is aluminum and if you were to strip the plug threads it would be very expensive to repair. Extraction rather than drain is the best way to go for the ML350.

Having said this, I may just get the pre-paid, three year maintenance plan and let the dealer do it from now on. At least that is something I have been thinking about. I have recently learned the oil filter is a dealer only item and is not available after market. The eight quarts of oil required (Mobil One 0w40 Euro blend) is also hard to find and is fairly expensive in comparison to regular oil and it only comes in quarts, not jugs. Plus there is software updates they check for and other things involving computer diagnostics that we can't do ourselves and are important for modern cars. All things considered, it might be better to just let them do it even though the prices for these plans are outrageous.

 

Thanks for your response. Do you have any recommendations for oil extractors?

Also, several searches all point towards the part number of the oil filter for the ML350 to be 2761800009. Most sites price this part just over $20.

If anybody has changed the oil in their ML350 using the method described in the original post, please share any input you may have!

 

Yes, that is the part number and it was verified to me by a Mercedes employee. You can find it at any dealership but there are no aftermarket filters, at least not yet. That means you have to get it from a dealer or European parts supplier. That is no big deal, however, just a little more inconvenient than walking into a Pep Boys or AutoZone and just picking one up.

The oil extractor I bought (but have not used yet) is battery operated and looks easy to use. You can see it at work here:


I bought it at Amazon:
Many people also like the hand pump Mityvacs:

 

I have the Mityvac MV7201 that is a simple hand pump type with large 8.8L capacity, and ability to change from vacuum to pressure. Works well. http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-16...ac-mv7201.aspx

There is also a version you can hook up to a compressor: http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-16...ac-mv7300.aspx

 

How many quarts of oil does this engine need?

 

Gas 7.4 qt., Diesel, 8.5 qt.

 

My dealer wanted $180 for that simple oil change. I couldn't believe my ears when I heard that.

 

Well, figure about $85 that is material (8 qts. synthetic oil + filter kit), so they're getting almost $100 for labor. You should be able to do it yourself in1/2 hour or so, then hopefully you have easy recycling for the oil (we have curb pickup along with other recyclables).

 

I live in an apartment by myself, so I can't really do DYI. I wanted to do it in the parking lot, but the caretaker won't let me. That's the unfortunate thing about living in an apartment I guess. Don't need a house when you're living by yourself though

I'll probably just buy the filter kit from Mercedes and then get it done somewhere. I'm sure they won't charge $100 for labor in a simple oil change. That's so ridiculous.

 

x2

is the diesel engine:642 >?<

They recommend approval codes:
228.51,
229.31,
229.51

any thoughts?

Also this is all we need I suppose:

2 oil filter seals
oil filter
8.0L of synthetic oil 5W-40 or 0W-40 depending on where you live?
oil extractor


Is that it>?<

 

Following the Manual would be the way to go, but yeah 229.51 is the correct one for Diesel I believe. Mine isn't the diesel unfortunately, it's the gasoline one. I've been getting worse gas mileage since I changed my engine oil, I'll probably get it done at the dealer next time.

 

Does anyone know how to reset the computer once you change the oil yourself?

Just started to get the reminder of need service soon in 500 miles (at 9500 miles).

Thanks,

 

anyone?

 

I called MB-service at the stealership. they claim to only change oil from underneath!?

Any thoughts?

 

They've got lifts, so it makes sense. It is a better way from the stanpoint of getting themost oil out, but the difference is probably not great, depending on the sump configuration.

 

If you want to do it yourself you can probably find a non-dealer M-B repair shop who could let you use a lift (probably for a few bucks). But make sure the shop has an appropriate size lift with the right blocks for the lift points.

 

It should be in the Manual, but for my car it's to leave the key in position 1, highlight trip on the screen display and hold down the call key and the OK key at the same time until a hidden menu comes up. From there it's pretty intuitive, you just go into the service section and confirm oil change or full service.

 

Sounds good thank you! I am going to go do an under the carriage oil change. if you have schematics or info on how to get to the drain plug that would be very helpful.

 

No idea unfortunately. I don't even know how to do it on mine, let alone yours. I'm sure its in the manual though. What is the mileage like on your car? Its an 80's car, so it must be damn high. Were you the original owner? It's pretty impressive.

 

You need to get under the car. The drain plug is in the bottom of the sump...or oil pan, as a yank might call it. Very simple on 300D.

 

What I won't do for you guys! This is an ML350 BlueEFFICIENCY (gas) engine.

1. Jack up front end one side at a time using a floor jack at the double pads just behind the front wheels. I placed jack stands under the lower control arms.
2. Remove the undertray (8 screws with large washers); an impact driver w/ 5/16" or 8mm nutdriver bit workswell.
3. Drain plug is at the bottom left of the deep sump (labeled in the photo below); takes 13mm socket. Because of the sump depth and location it looks like it will drain all oil with just the front raised, vs. having to be level.











In the foreground of the last photo is the distribution block for the Active Curve hydraulics. Your truck will likely not have this.

 

To access the filter, pry up gently on the front engine cover, which is held on by 5 spring clips. The screw on filter is then exposed at the left front of the engine.

 

Greg Thank you for posting these. You must have been doing this while I was uploading the pics.

I did an oil change last night and just got around to posting these images for you all (Diesel).

Here is the DIY for the Diesel with pics.


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#1 GET SOME GOOD MUSIC

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PARTS

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Dark Black diesel oil.

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I didn't have this:Assenmacher Specialty Tools Oil Filter Housing Cup Wrench for Mercedes

As a result it took me over 15 minutes to find a good enough grip to take the filter cap off.

MANN = Mercedes Benz so just buy MANN products save some $$ Order this: http://amzn.com/B001HJ6F0W

 

Thanks for the excellent pics, guys.

So where did you buy that oil filter cap?

Also, the below part doesn't fit 2012 ML350:
MANN = Mercedes Benz so just buy MANN products save some $$ Order this: http://amzn.com/B001HJ6F0W[/QUOTE]

But this one does: